JP/18/local

JP/18/local

Local designs struggle against massive attack

Jakarta's socialites still prefer Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga to
creations by local fashion designers. Jakarta Post contributor
Syahmedi Dean looks at the hits and misses of 2005 and finds that
a bit of competition can be a good thing.

In a matter of days, we will say goodbye to 2005 and get ready
for the New Year -- with all its new collections, new styles and
new ideas. But before we embark on next season, let's cast a look
back at who have become the new stars in Indonesia fashion. Are
they the domestic designers or their foreign rivals?

The best way to find out what brands are "in" is to attend the
many fashion events and parties held by the Jakarta jet-set.
Unfortunately, not everyone can easily get invited to such elite
events, which welcome only those whose names are on the high-
society list -- the people who regularly feature in the Harper's
Bazaar, Dewi and Prestige magazines.

Still, there is an easier way to find out how Jakarta society
is dressed: just take a close look at the "People" pages of these
magazines. The pictures on these pages speak volumes -- most
importantly, the brands and the designers of the outfits these
sparkling clothes horses wear. They are also a good fashion
bellwether, showing who and what's hot -- and who and what isn't.

The parties attended by Jakarta's socialites and the coverage
in lifestyle magazines show that only a few well-heeled women
wear dresses designed by Indonesians. Many of these women prefer
-- and look more confident in -- imported designs. Take, for
example, a birthday party in an elite restaurant at the BNI 45
Tower. Many female guests went hither and thither in dresses
designed by Valentino, BCBG, Chloe, Chanel, Anna Molinari and
Matthew Williamson. Surprisingly, all came from the latest
collections -- none wore dresses from last season. In one
afternoon tea at Rumah Kertanegara, the women looked relaxed and
hospitable in dresses by Lanvin, Dior, Stella McCartney, Gucci,
Giorgio Armani, Celine and YSL.

Pffff! Where on earth are the works of Indonesian fashion
designers?

Of all the local designers whose names appeared in the great
number of high-society gatherings in Jakarta, Sebastian Gunawan
was one of the only Indonesian designers who was consistently
present. No one knows how he does it, but most fashionistas think
of his works as being on par with imported designs. Then there
were the other names: Biyan, Ronald V Gaghana and Arantxa Adi,
who cropped up among the biggies like Prada and Balenciaga.
Others who appeared less frequently were Tri Handoko, Denny
Wirawan, Deden Siswanto and Sally Koeswanto.

At a party marking the opening of Louis Vuitton's new boutique
held in early December at Plaza Senayan -- an event considered
the pinnacle of fashion gatherings this year -- many female
guests donned dresses by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton while
others wore Celine and Chanel.

The party was so crowded, the poor wee things had to jostle
with one another for a seat. One of the women wore a blouse made
of layers of vintage lace, a design by Priyo Oktaviano. She
looked composed and confident amid the dominant imported brands.
Then there was the woman who wore a lovely dress by Danny
Satriadi. Many of Indonesia's noted designers attended this event
and they seemed to greatly love Louis Vuitton.

It seems that most Indonesian fashion designers have been
holding out against an all-out attack leveled by the imported
brands. And it was quite an attack. At the top level, local
designers had to compete with first liners from Dior, Prada and
even YSL. In the mid-range, there was strong pressure from young
hip things like Mango and Zara. At the cheapest end, local
designers have had to put up with the onslaught of knock-off
brands from China. How can they withstand this three-pronged
attack? Is it really such a difficult situation for Indonesian
designers?

In tough times, the rule is that only the well-established
survive while the newcomers struggle.

But there is another a handful of local designers who are
completely in their own world. These creatives have been doing
their best to develop the Indonesian traditional wear of kebaya,
a long-sleeved blouse worn over a skirt-wrap. But how much longer
can they continue doing so? It is common knowledge that a kebaya
will never have a significant change in its look. Despite the
variety of ways it is modified, a kebaya will always be
ceremonial. A question worth asking, then, is whether there are
any women who want wear it on any other occasion.

Throughout 2005, the development of kebaya design has gone
crazy, with the many outlandish creations detracting from the
classiness of the original design. So enough of the kebaya, I
say. Leave it alone, and give it back its original grace!
In this respect, it seems only designers Edward Hutabarat and
Adjie Notonegoro know the trick. Or, perhaps Obin; as he can make
a kebaya as comfortable as a loose t-shirt.

To wrap up, Indonesian fashion may be fighting to survive
against an onslaught of international brands. But there is always
a silver lining in this cloud that struggling new designers
should note -- competition makes the man, and the woman.