JP\/18\/local<\/p>\n
Local designs struggle against massive attack<\/p>\n
Jakarta's socialites still prefer Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga to
\ncreations by local fashion designers. Jakarta Post contributor
\nSyahmedi Dean looks at the hits and misses of 2005 and finds that
\na bit of competition can be a good thing.<\/p>\n
In a matter of days, we will say goodbye to 2005 and get ready
\nfor the New Year -- with all its new collections, new styles and
\nnew ideas. But before we embark on next season, let's cast a look
\nback at who have become the new stars in Indonesia fashion. Are
\nthey the domestic designers or their foreign rivals?<\/p>\n
The best way to find out what brands are \"in\" is to attend the
\nmany fashion events and parties held by the Jakarta jet-set.
\nUnfortunately, not everyone can easily get invited to such elite
\nevents, which welcome only those whose names are on the high-
\nsociety list -- the people who regularly feature in the Harper's
\nBazaar, Dewi and Prestige magazines.<\/p>\n
Still, there is an easier way to find out how Jakarta society
\nis dressed: just take a close look at the \"People\" pages of these
\nmagazines. The pictures on these pages speak volumes -- most
\nimportantly, the brands and the designers of the outfits these
\nsparkling clothes horses wear. They are also a good fashion
\nbellwether, showing who and what's hot -- and who and what isn't.<\/p>\n
The parties attended by Jakarta's socialites and the coverage
\nin lifestyle magazines show that only a few well-heeled women
\nwear dresses designed by Indonesians. Many of these women prefer
\n-- and look more confident in -- imported designs. Take, for
\nexample, a birthday party in an elite restaurant at the BNI 45
\nTower. Many female guests went hither and thither in dresses
\ndesigned by Valentino, BCBG, Chloe, Chanel, Anna Molinari and
\nMatthew Williamson. Surprisingly, all came from the latest
\ncollections -- none wore dresses from last season. In one
\nafternoon tea at Rumah Kertanegara, the women looked relaxed and
\nhospitable in dresses by Lanvin, Dior, Stella McCartney, Gucci,
\nGiorgio Armani, Celine and YSL.<\/p>\n
Pffff! Where on earth are the works of Indonesian fashion
\ndesigners?<\/p>\n
Of all the local designers whose names appeared in the great
\nnumber of high-society gatherings in Jakarta, Sebastian Gunawan
\nwas one of the only Indonesian designers who was consistently
\npresent. No one knows how he does it, but most fashionistas think
\nof his works as being on par with imported designs. Then there
\nwere the other names: Biyan, Ronald V Gaghana and Arantxa Adi,
\nwho cropped up among the biggies like Prada and Balenciaga.
\nOthers who appeared less frequently were Tri Handoko, Denny
\nWirawan, Deden Siswanto and Sally Koeswanto.<\/p>\n
At a party marking the opening of Louis Vuitton's new boutique
\nheld in early December at Plaza Senayan -- an event considered
\nthe pinnacle of fashion gatherings this year -- many female
\nguests donned dresses by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton while
\nothers wore Celine and Chanel.<\/p>\n
The party was so crowded, the poor wee things had to jostle
\nwith one another for a seat. One of the women wore a blouse made
\nof layers of vintage lace, a design by Priyo Oktaviano. She
\nlooked composed and confident amid the dominant imported brands.
\nThen there was the woman who wore a lovely dress by Danny
\nSatriadi. Many of Indonesia's noted designers attended this event
\nand they seemed to greatly love Louis Vuitton.<\/p>\n
It seems that most Indonesian fashion designers have been
\nholding out against an all-out attack leveled by the imported
\nbrands. And it was quite an attack. At the top level, local
\ndesigners had to compete with first liners from Dior, Prada and
\neven YSL. In the mid-range, there was strong pressure from young
\nhip things like Mango and Zara. At the cheapest end, local
\ndesigners have had to put up with the onslaught of knock-off
\nbrands from China. How can they withstand this three-pronged
\nattack? Is it really such a difficult situation for Indonesian
\ndesigners?<\/p>\n
In tough times, the rule is that only the well-established
\nsurvive while the newcomers struggle.<\/p>\n
But there is another a handful of local designers who are
\ncompletely in their own world. These creatives have been doing
\ntheir best to develop the Indonesian traditional wear of kebaya,
\na long-sleeved blouse worn over a skirt-wrap. But how much longer
\ncan they continue doing so? It is common knowledge that a kebaya
\nwill never have a significant change in its look. Despite the
\nvariety of ways it is modified, a kebaya will always be
\nceremonial. A question worth asking, then, is whether there are
\nany women who want wear it on any other occasion.<\/p>\n
Throughout 2005, the development of kebaya design has gone
\ncrazy, with the many outlandish creations detracting from the
\nclassiness of the original design. So enough of the kebaya, I
\nsay. Leave it alone, and give it back its original grace!
\nIn this respect, it seems only designers Edward Hutabarat and
\nAdjie Notonegoro know the trick. Or, perhaps Obin; as he can make
\na kebaya as comfortable as a loose t-shirt.<\/p>\n
To wrap up, Indonesian fashion may be fighting to survive
\nagainst an onslaught of international brands. But there is always
\na silver lining in this cloud that struggling new designers
\nshould note -- competition makes the man, and the woman.<\/p>",
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