Far from the madding crowd

Far from the madding crowd

Martin Jenkins, Contributor, Jakarta

Bali's tourist industry is currently enjoying a resurgence as
large numbers of foreign tourists are once again visiting
Indonesia's best-known holiday destination following a number of
lean years in the wake of the devastating Kuta bombings in
October 2002.

The beaches on the south of the island are again proving to be
a strong magnet for the younger crowd who seek sun, sand and a
variety of hedonistic pleasures, while the older and generally
more well-heeled tourists are heading for the cooler climes of
central Bali, where they are able to savor the island's rich
cultural traditions in places such as Ubud.

However, neither of these locations will appeal to those
wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
But there is no reason to despair, because one of Bali's little-
known secrets will reveal itself to those willing to make the
effort to get there: the magnificent northeast coast.

This area is thankfully free of the excessive commercialism
and crass cultural tourism that plague much of Bali's tourist
industry. No one here will try to sell you a mass-produced low-
quality woodcarving or "original" oil painting at a special-for-
you tourist price of US$100. Instead you will find superlative
opportunities for snorkeling and diving, as well as unspoiled
beaches and sleepy fishing hamlets, with magnificently rugged
scenery and Bali's highest volcano, Gunung Agung (3,142 meters),
providing a spectacular backdrop.

No trip to the northeast coast of Bali would be complete
without a visit to Tulamben. Although visitors may not be
particularly impressed by its rather nondescript one kilometer-
long pebble beach, there is actually far more to the place than
meets the eye. For close to the shore, hidden from sight, lies
the wreck of a U.S. merchant ship. Torpedoed in the Lombok Strait
by the Japanese during World War II, Tulamben became the ship's
final resting place when she ran aground while being towed to the
Bali port of Singaraja. The vessel remained on the beach until it
was pushed away from the shore and into deeper water by lava
flows as a result of the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963.

Today the 120 meter-long wreck is only about 30 meters
offshore, making it easily accessible for divers and snorkelers
alike. It lies in depths from nine meters to 30 meters, and the
highest point of the stern is only about four meters below the
surface. And although broken up, many of the ship's original
features -- such as the guns, boilers and the anchor chain -- are
still clearly identifiable to divers. But best of all, being in
extremely plankton-rich waters, the wreck has become a haven for
a wonderful array of marine life. Schools of fusiliers and
surgeonfish and over 400 other species of tropical fish have made
it their home.

And even away from the wreck, and only meters from the shore,
the snorkeling is still superb as a shallow coral reef stretches
along the bay. Expect to see many species of tropical fish,
including brightly colored butterflyfish, as well as angelfish
and probably the most readily recognizable of all coral reef
fish, the wonderfully shaped moorish idol fish. There are even
huge triggerfish. But be careful: this highly territorial fish
might bite if you get too close!

From Tulamben, Amed is only a 30-minute drive away. Follow
the road to the small town of Culik, and then take the signposted
left-hand turn. Although this stretch of coastal road is often
referred to as Amed by tourists, it should be noted that Amed is
actually just one of a number of small fishing hamlets in the
vicinity. Noticeably poorer than the rest of Bali, do not be
surprised to see local villagers bathing by the side of the road
as freshwater is a rare commodity here given the region's very
dry climate. Besides salt panning and subsistence farming, there
are few job opportunities and many locals earn a livelihood from
fishing. The many brightly painted jukung (small traditional
Balinese fishing boats) make for a picture-postcard setting,
especially at sunrise when they return to shore after a long
night's fishing.

About 11 kilometers along the road from Culik is Lipah Bay, a
wonderfully remote location. Close to the shore lies the wreck of
a Japanese steel freighter in six meters to 12 meters of water.
To find it, just go down the steps right outside the Eka Purnama
cottages to the black-stone beach. Although tiny in comparison to
the wreck of the U.S. merchant ship, this small wreck is
nonetheless ideal for snorkeling. Being in such shallow water,
the coral encrusted wreck is a mini-ecosystem in itself and
snorkeling here is like being in a large aquarium. The bay also
has some of the most beautiful coral fields in Bali. The huge sea
fans are a sight to behold.

Snorkeling Tips

Although snorkeling is great fun, it is, like any activity in
the ocean, not without its risks. To ensure you have a trouble-
free time bear in mind the following:

1) Buy a decent quality mask that fits properly. Better
quality masks are made of silicon rather than rubber and they can
make an extremely good seal around your face to prevent any water
from leaking in.

2) Assess the situation very carefully to see if there are any
currents. You do not want this holiday to be your last. Weak
swimmers should wear flippers, preferably use a buoyancy jacket
and never snorkel alone.

3) Do not snorkel barefooted -- use either flippers or light
rubber-soled shoes. Razor-sharp hard coral and other dangers such
as the poisonous spines of sea urchins can cause very nasty
injuries. Flippers, although not essential for good swimmers, can
make snorkeling much easier and safer, especially in the presence
of mild or strong currents.

4) Never stand on hard or soft corals. They are easily
damaged.

5) Children as young as five can snorkel with an appropriately
sized children's mask. Get them used to snorkeling in a swimming
pool beforehand to build up their confidence before they try the
sea.

6) Take necessary precautions to avoid sunburn. Use water-
resistant suntan lotion/sunblock and even consider wearing a T-
shirt while you snorkel, especially under the strong midday sun.

7) Do not snorkel after eating a large meal to minimize the
risk of getting a cramp. Watch out for jellyfish too -- even
small ones can give you a nasty sting. Indeed, do not try to
touch any sea creatures. Even the innocuous-looking sea cucumber,
for example, can excrete dangerous toxins that can cause swelling
and even dermatitis if handled a lot.

Getting there

The reason so few tourists make it to Bali's northeast coast
is its inaccessibility.

Shuttle buses have long since stopped bringing tourists here,
and given that it is a good two-and-a-half to three-hour drive
from the south of Bali, a taxi ride would cost a small fortune.
So if you really want to explore this region of Bali, then there
is little option but to rent a car or go on a group tour. The
best place to find a reputable car rental firm is at Bali's
Ngurah Rai International Airport.

Much cheaper car rental options are available at places like
Kuta and Ubud, although the roadworthiness of some of the cars
may be questionable, and it may be unclear whether the car is
actually insured or not! Also remember that to rent a car in Bali
you will have to have either an international driver's license or
an Indonesian driver's license.

Once on the road, exercise extreme caution when driving in
Bali -- oncoming vehicles have the infuriating tendency to drive
on your side of the road! The coastal roads in Amed are also very
twisty. So don't be tempted to drink and drive or you may well
end up in the sea!

Food and accommodation

Given the remoteness of the northeast coast, some fresh food
items have to be brought in from the nearest town, Amlapura. This
may go some way to explaining why the food in this region of Bali
is often very poor -- and in some cases even inedible -- as well
as being very expensive by Indonesian standards. No chance of
finding any wonderful Padang restaurants here! Be very careful
then when choosing a place to eat. Some of the restaurants at the
busier hotels are probably the best bet.

In regard to accommodation, there is plenty of choice,
although many of the older hotels and cottages are rather
rundown. However, like the food, the accommodation here is much
more expensive in comparison to the rest of Bali. Check out
possible places to stay by searching the excellent Bali tourism
info site www.Balitravelforum.com before you come. Also bear in
mind that this region is as dead as a dodo at night. There is
very little chance of any entertainment at all, except perhaps a
low-key Balinese dance at one of the local restaurants. But what
the heck: this is a small price to pay. After all, you've come
here to get away from it all, haven't you?