Far from the madding crowd

Martin Jenkins, Contributor, Jakarta

Bali's tourist industry is currently enjoying a resurgence as large numbers of foreign tourists are once again visiting Indonesia's best-known holiday destination following a number of lean years in the wake of the devastating Kuta bombings in October 2002.

The beaches on the south of the island are again proving to be a strong magnet for the younger crowd who seek sun, sand and a variety of hedonistic pleasures, while the older and generally more well-heeled tourists are heading for the cooler climes of central Bali, where they are able to savor the island's rich cultural traditions in places such as Ubud.

However, neither of these locations will appeal to those wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. But there is no reason to despair, because one of Bali's little- known secrets will reveal itself to those willing to make the effort to get there: the magnificent northeast coast.

This area is thankfully free of the excessive commercialism and crass cultural tourism that plague much of Bali's tourist industry. No one here will try to sell you a mass-produced low- quality woodcarving or "original" oil painting at a special-for- you tourist price of US$100. Instead you will find superlative opportunities for snorkeling and diving, as well as unspoiled beaches and sleepy fishing hamlets, with magnificently rugged scenery and Bali's highest volcano, Gunung Agung (3,142 meters), providing a spectacular backdrop.

No trip to the northeast coast of Bali would be complete without a visit to Tulamben. Although visitors may not be particularly impressed by its rather nondescript one kilometer- long pebble beach, there is actually far more to the place than meets the eye. For close to the shore, hidden from sight, lies the wreck of a U.S. merchant ship. Torpedoed in the Lombok Strait by the Japanese during World War II, Tulamben became the ship's final resting place when she ran aground while being towed to the Bali port of Singaraja. The vessel remained on the beach until it was pushed away from the shore and into deeper water by lava flows as a result of the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963.

Today the 120 meter-long wreck is only about 30 meters offshore, making it easily accessible for divers and snorkelers alike. It lies in depths from nine meters to 30 meters, and the highest point of the stern is only about four meters below the surface. And although broken up, many of the ship's original features -- such as the guns, boilers and the anchor chain -- are still clearly identifiable to divers. But best of all, being in extremely plankton-rich waters, the wreck has become a haven for a wonderful array of marine life. Schools of fusiliers and surgeonfish and over 400 other species of tropical fish have made it their home.

And even away from the wreck, and only meters from the shore, the snorkeling is still superb as a shallow coral reef stretches along the bay. Expect to see many species of tropical fish, including brightly colored butterflyfish, as well as angelfish and probably the most readily recognizable of all coral reef fish, the wonderfully shaped moorish idol fish. There are even huge triggerfish. But be careful: this highly territorial fish might bite if you get too close!

From Tulamben, Amed is only a 30-minute drive away. Follow the road to the small town of Culik, and then take the signposted left-hand turn. Although this stretch of coastal road is often referred to as Amed by tourists, it should be noted that Amed is actually just one of a number of small fishing hamlets in the vicinity. Noticeably poorer than the rest of Bali, do not be surprised to see local villagers bathing by the side of the road as freshwater is a rare commodity here given the region's very dry climate. Besides salt panning and subsistence farming, there are few job opportunities and many locals earn a livelihood from fishing. The many brightly painted jukung (small traditional Balinese fishing boats) make for a picture-postcard setting, especially at sunrise when they return to shore after a long night's fishing.

About 11 kilometers along the road from Culik is Lipah Bay, a wonderfully remote location. Close to the shore lies the wreck of a Japanese steel freighter in six meters to 12 meters of water. To find it, just go down the steps right outside the Eka Purnama cottages to the black-stone beach. Although tiny in comparison to the wreck of the U.S. merchant ship, this small wreck is nonetheless ideal for snorkeling. Being in such shallow water, the coral encrusted wreck is a mini-ecosystem in itself and snorkeling here is like being in a large aquarium. The bay also has some of the most beautiful coral fields in Bali. The huge sea fans are a sight to behold.

Snorkeling Tips

Although snorkeling is great fun, it is, like any activity in the ocean, not without its risks. To ensure you have a trouble- free time bear in mind the following:

1) Buy a decent quality mask that fits properly. Better quality masks are made of silicon rather than rubber and they can make an extremely good seal around your face to prevent any water from leaking in.

2) Assess the situation very carefully to see if there are any currents. You do not want this holiday to be your last. Weak swimmers should wear flippers, preferably use a buoyancy jacket and never snorkel alone.

3) Do not snorkel barefooted -- use either flippers or light rubber-soled shoes. Razor-sharp hard coral and other dangers such as the poisonous spines of sea urchins can cause very nasty injuries. Flippers, although not essential for good swimmers, can make snorkeling much easier and safer, especially in the presence of mild or strong currents.

4) Never stand on hard or soft corals. They are easily damaged.

5) Children as young as five can snorkel with an appropriately sized children's mask. Get them used to snorkeling in a swimming pool beforehand to build up their confidence before they try the sea.

6) Take necessary precautions to avoid sunburn. Use water- resistant suntan lotion/sunblock and even consider wearing a T- shirt while you snorkel, especially under the strong midday sun.

7) Do not snorkel after eating a large meal to minimize the risk of getting a cramp. Watch out for jellyfish too -- even small ones can give you a nasty sting. Indeed, do not try to touch any sea creatures. Even the innocuous-looking sea cucumber, for example, can excrete dangerous toxins that can cause swelling and even dermatitis if handled a lot.

Getting there

The reason so few tourists make it to Bali's northeast coast is its inaccessibility.

Shuttle buses have long since stopped bringing tourists here, and given that it is a good two-and-a-half to three-hour drive from the south of Bali, a taxi ride would cost a small fortune. So if you really want to explore this region of Bali, then there is little option but to rent a car or go on a group tour. The best place to find a reputable car rental firm is at Bali's Ngurah Rai International Airport.

Much cheaper car rental options are available at places like Kuta and Ubud, although the roadworthiness of some of the cars may be questionable, and it may be unclear whether the car is actually insured or not! Also remember that to rent a car in Bali you will have to have either an international driver's license or an Indonesian driver's license.

Once on the road, exercise extreme caution when driving in Bali -- oncoming vehicles have the infuriating tendency to drive on your side of the road! The coastal roads in Amed are also very twisty. So don't be tempted to drink and drive or you may well end up in the sea!

Food and accommodation

Given the remoteness of the northeast coast, some fresh food items have to be brought in from the nearest town, Amlapura. This may go some way to explaining why the food in this region of Bali is often very poor -- and in some cases even inedible -- as well as being very expensive by Indonesian standards. No chance of finding any wonderful Padang restaurants here! Be very careful then when choosing a place to eat. Some of the restaurants at the busier hotels are probably the best bet.

In regard to accommodation, there is plenty of choice, although many of the older hotels and cottages are rather rundown. However, like the food, the accommodation here is much more expensive in comparison to the rest of Bali. Check out possible places to stay by searching the excellent Bali tourism info site www.Balitravelforum.com before you come. Also bear in mind that this region is as dead as a dodo at night. There is very little chance of any entertainment at all, except perhaps a low-key Balinese dance at one of the local restaurants. But what the heck: this is a small price to pay. After all, you've come here to get away from it all, haven't you?