Far from the madding crowd<\/p>\n
Martin Jenkins, Contributor, Jakarta<\/p>\n
Bali's tourist industry is currently enjoying a resurgence as
\nlarge numbers of foreign tourists are once again visiting
\nIndonesia's best-known holiday destination following a number of
\nlean years in the wake of the devastating Kuta bombings in
\nOctober 2002.<\/p>\n
The beaches on the south of the island are again proving to be
\na strong magnet for the younger crowd who seek sun, sand and a
\nvariety of hedonistic pleasures, while the older and generally
\nmore well-heeled tourists are heading for the cooler climes of
\ncentral Bali, where they are able to savor the island's rich
\ncultural traditions in places such as Ubud.<\/p>\n
However, neither of these locations will appeal to those
\nwanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
\nBut there is no reason to despair, because one of Bali's little-
\nknown secrets will reveal itself to those willing to make the
\neffort to get there: the magnificent northeast coast.<\/p>\n
This area is thankfully free of the excessive commercialism
\nand crass cultural tourism that plague much of Bali's tourist
\nindustry. No one here will try to sell you a mass-produced low-
\nquality woodcarving or \"original\" oil painting at a special-for-
\nyou tourist price of US$100. Instead you will find superlative
\nopportunities for snorkeling and diving, as well as unspoiled
\nbeaches and sleepy fishing hamlets, with magnificently rugged
\nscenery and Bali's highest volcano, Gunung Agung (3,142 meters),
\nproviding a spectacular backdrop.<\/p>\n
No trip to the northeast coast of Bali would be complete
\nwithout a visit to Tulamben. Although visitors may not be
\nparticularly impressed by its rather nondescript one kilometer-
\nlong pebble beach, there is actually far more to the place than
\nmeets the eye. For close to the shore, hidden from sight, lies
\nthe wreck of a U.S. merchant ship. Torpedoed in the Lombok Strait
\nby the Japanese during World War II, Tulamben became the ship's
\nfinal resting place when she ran aground while being towed to the
\nBali port of Singaraja. The vessel remained on the beach until it
\nwas pushed away from the shore and into deeper water by lava
\nflows as a result of the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963.<\/p>\n
Today the 120 meter-long wreck is only about 30 meters
\noffshore, making it easily accessible for divers and snorkelers
\nalike. It lies in depths from nine meters to 30 meters, and the
\nhighest point of the stern is only about four meters below the
\nsurface. And although broken up, many of the ship's original
\nfeatures -- such as the guns, boilers and the anchor chain -- are
\nstill clearly identifiable to divers. But best of all, being in
\nextremely plankton-rich waters, the wreck has become a haven for
\na wonderful array of marine life. Schools of fusiliers and
\nsurgeonfish and over 400 other species of tropical fish have made
\nit their home.<\/p>\n
And even away from the wreck, and only meters from the shore,
\nthe snorkeling is still superb as a shallow coral reef stretches
\nalong the bay. Expect to see many species of tropical fish,
\nincluding brightly colored butterflyfish, as well as angelfish
\nand probably the most readily recognizable of all coral reef
\nfish, the wonderfully shaped moorish idol fish. There are even
\nhuge triggerfish. But be careful: this highly territorial fish
\nmight bite if you get too close!<\/p>\n
From Tulamben, Amed is only a 30-minute drive away. Follow
\nthe road to the small town of Culik, and then take the signposted
\nleft-hand turn. Although this stretch of coastal road is often
\nreferred to as Amed by tourists, it should be noted that Amed is
\nactually just one of a number of small fishing hamlets in the
\nvicinity. Noticeably poorer than the rest of Bali, do not be
\nsurprised to see local villagers bathing by the side of the road
\nas freshwater is a rare commodity here given the region's very
\ndry climate. Besides salt panning and subsistence farming, there
\nare few job opportunities and many locals earn a livelihood from
\nfishing. The many brightly painted jukung (small traditional
\nBalinese fishing boats) make for a picture-postcard setting,
\nespecially at sunrise when they return to shore after a long
\nnight's fishing.<\/p>\n
About 11 kilometers along the road from Culik is Lipah Bay, a
\nwonderfully remote location. Close to the shore lies the wreck of
\na Japanese steel freighter in six meters to 12 meters of water.
\nTo find it, just go down the steps right outside the Eka Purnama
\ncottages to the black-stone beach. Although tiny in comparison to
\nthe wreck of the U.S. merchant ship, this small wreck is
\nnonetheless ideal for snorkeling. Being in such shallow water,
\nthe coral encrusted wreck is a mini-ecosystem in itself and
\nsnorkeling here is like being in a large aquarium. The bay also
\nhas some of the most beautiful coral fields in Bali. The huge sea
\nfans are a sight to behold.<\/p>\n
Snorkeling Tips<\/p>\n
Although snorkeling is great fun, it is, like any activity in
\nthe ocean, not without its risks. To ensure you have a trouble-
\nfree time bear in mind the following:<\/p>\n
1) Buy a decent quality mask that fits properly. Better
\nquality masks are made of silicon rather than rubber and they can
\nmake an extremely good seal around your face to prevent any water
\nfrom leaking in.<\/p>\n
2) Assess the situation very carefully to see if there are any
\ncurrents. You do not want this holiday to be your last. Weak
\nswimmers should wear flippers, preferably use a buoyancy jacket
\nand never snorkel alone.<\/p>\n
3) Do not snorkel barefooted -- use either flippers or light
\nrubber-soled shoes. Razor-sharp hard coral and other dangers such
\nas the poisonous spines of sea urchins can cause very nasty
\ninjuries. Flippers, although not essential for good swimmers, can
\nmake snorkeling much easier and safer, especially in the presence
\nof mild or strong currents.<\/p>\n
4) Never stand on hard or soft corals. They are easily
\ndamaged.<\/p>\n
5) Children as young as five can snorkel with an appropriately
\nsized children's mask. Get them used to snorkeling in a swimming
\npool beforehand to build up their confidence before they try the
\nsea.<\/p>\n
6) Take necessary precautions to avoid sunburn. Use water-
\nresistant suntan lotion\/sunblock and even consider wearing a T-
\nshirt while you snorkel, especially under the strong midday sun.<\/p>\n
7) Do not snorkel after eating a large meal to minimize the
\nrisk of getting a cramp. Watch out for jellyfish too -- even
\nsmall ones can give you a nasty sting. Indeed, do not try to
\ntouch any sea creatures. Even the innocuous-looking sea cucumber,
\nfor example, can excrete dangerous toxins that can cause swelling
\nand even dermatitis if handled a lot.<\/p>\n
Getting there<\/p>\n
The reason so few tourists make it to Bali's northeast coast
\nis its inaccessibility.<\/p>\n
Shuttle buses have long since stopped bringing tourists here,
\nand given that it is a good two-and-a-half to three-hour drive
\nfrom the south of Bali, a taxi ride would cost a small fortune.
\nSo if you really want to explore this region of Bali, then there
\nis little option but to rent a car or go on a group tour. The
\nbest place to find a reputable car rental firm is at Bali's
\nNgurah Rai International Airport.<\/p>\n
Much cheaper car rental options are available at places like
\nKuta and Ubud, although the roadworthiness of some of the cars
\nmay be questionable, and it may be unclear whether the car is
\nactually insured or not! Also remember that to rent a car in Bali
\nyou will have to have either an international driver's license or
\nan Indonesian driver's license.<\/p>\n
Once on the road, exercise extreme caution when driving in
\nBali -- oncoming vehicles have the infuriating tendency to drive
\non your side of the road! The coastal roads in Amed are also very
\ntwisty. So don't be tempted to drink and drive or you may well
\nend up in the sea!<\/p>\n
Food and accommodation<\/p>\n
Given the remoteness of the northeast coast, some fresh food
\nitems have to be brought in from the nearest town, Amlapura. This
\nmay go some way to explaining why the food in this region of Bali
\nis often very poor -- and in some cases even inedible -- as well
\nas being very expensive by Indonesian standards. No chance of
\nfinding any wonderful Padang restaurants here! Be very careful
\nthen when choosing a place to eat. Some of the restaurants at the
\nbusier hotels are probably the best bet.<\/p>\n
In regard to accommodation, there is plenty of choice,
\nalthough many of the older hotels and cottages are rather
\nrundown. However, like the food, the accommodation here is much
\nmore expensive in comparison to the rest of Bali. Check out
\npossible places to stay by searching the excellent Bali tourism
\ninfo site www.Balitravelforum.com before you come. Also bear in
\nmind that this region is as dead as a dodo at night. There is
\nvery little chance of any entertainment at all, except perhaps a
\nlow-key Balinese dance at one of the local restaurants. But what
\nthe heck: this is a small price to pay. After all, you've come
\nhere to get away from it all, haven't you?<\/p>",
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