Work is thin on the ground for local models
By Agni Amorita
JAKARTA (JP): Three years ago, 15-year-old Tracy Trinita won the first Elite Model Indonesia Contest. She was sent to Seoul to take part in a World Elite Model contest run by the international modeling agency.
Although she was required to wear a swimsuit -- banned by the government in local contests -- Tracy draped a short shawl around her waist. The 180-centimeter-tall junior high school student was selected among the 15 finalists.
As a reward, she received an annual US$100,000 contract, first-class return tickets to Elite's headquarters in New York and living expenses.
After postponing the contract for a year to finish school, she modeled on the major catwalks of New York and Milan and for several well-known international products.
Recently, she was chosen by famed Somalian model Iman, David Bowie's wife, to become one of the four faces for her new signature cosmetic line. When Tracy returned to Jakarta last month, her face quickly graced several local magazine covers.
"I will fly to Paris after this," Tracy said recently, mentioning several modeling assignments in the French capital squeezed into her tight schedule.
She is paid handsomely for a day's work; she took home US$10,000 per day for a job in Brazil.
"But behind the glamour, modeling is actually toil," she said.
She related how she is required to look beautiful constantly -- smooth skin, pimple-free face, lustrous eyes. There is no excuse for bags under the eyes, even though sometimes she has to come home late at night, and she needs great patience.
Tracy has to wash her hair so that she will be ready for the next photo session at 9 a.m.; "ready" means for her makeup to be applied.
Amid all the hard work, Tracy is continuing her schooling through a correspondence course in the U.S.
Despite the difficulties and the harsh fact that only a handful of models ever make it to the top, many Indonesian girls want to try the business.
Top local models like Donna Harun, Keke Suryokusumo, Izabel Putri Yahya and Karenina command fees of Rp 500,000 to Rp 750,000 for a night show. Day rates are from Rp 300,000 to Rp 500,000.
No wonder modeling agencies are flourishing in major cities in the crisis.
Two agencies established during the crisis are John Casablancas Indonesia -- founded by John Casablancas, the owner of Elite -- under a franchise controlled by Brigitta Maria. There is also Portfolio Modeling Agency established by flamboyant fashion designer Adjie Notonegoro.
At the posh inauguration of his agency at Hotel Dharmawangsa in South Jakarta, Adjie's invitees included Minister of Tourism Marzuki Usman, Minister of Transmigration and Resettlement of Forest Squatters AM Hendropriyono and businessman Abdul Latief.
"I have prepared Portfolio for a while," said Adjie when asked about why he dared to start the enterprise in the crisis. "Many of my friends are supporting me,".
In 1990, Adjie established Carrie Models Indonesia, probably best known for introducing Avi Basuki to the international modeling world at the World Top Model 1991 contest in Ankara, Turkey.
Avi signed a number of modeling contracts in various countries. A franchise of an international modeling agency based in Singapore, Carrie Models Indonesia went bankrupt in 1994.
"There were some management problems," Adjie recalled. "The most difficult thing was to manage the models, while the most important factor in this business is to nurture confidence within the model."
He is optimistic Portfolio will succeed thanks to his experience.
"Next month's schedule is fully booked. One of the activities is to perform in a fashion show by top Indonesian designers."
Adjie is no doubt hoping his enterprise fares better than Expose Modeling Agency, founded three years ago by models Ratih Sanggarwati, Kintan Umari and Larasati Iris Rischa.
Expose was at its peak in 1996, but now is rarely heard of.
"It is mainly caused by the monetary crisis," Ratih said, refuting rumors the running of the business was neglected after she had a baby two years ago, Kintan married and Larasati, a German citizen, became involved in a protracted, highly publicized legal wrangle over her work papers.
Ratih acknowledged that she would not comprise on her principles and said it contributed to the agency's loss of prominence.
"Due to the economic crisis, the number of projects have declined. Many of our clients asked for discounted fees, while some even requested free service. In the early years, free shows were OK as long as the models could practice on the catwalk," Ratih said.
"But the idea can no longer be used like it was three years ago as a way to promote Expose. I can't do this again now. This is a principle that I try to explain to the students and their parents so that the students can become truly professional."
Competition is stiffer than ever for jobs.
"In July last year, I did three shows a week," said 16-year- old Karenina, one of the most prominent Indonesian models today. "Now, forget about even once a week. I would be really happy if I received any modeling offers."
Karenina, or Nina, a junior at Bethel High School in the capital, is fortunate she still works sporadically.
"There have been photo offers and I am still a freelance VJ for MTV Asia." She learned fluent English from her mother, a teacher of the subject.
Over the past three months, she guest hosted MTV Asia which is based in Singapore.
Industry veterans are also finding it hard going. Tiana Sapari, 24 and a model for five years, talks in a sad voice about the lack of work.
"Lately, prices, including those of cosmetics, have increased, while the orders for jobs have sharply declined."
The dark-skinned, 175 cm woman has had to take a cut in pay. "Now the fee can be negotiated, and even a 50 discount will do."
Tiana is concentrating more on her new job as a marketing coordinator for Lippoland.
Izabel Putri Yahya, or Abel, is focusing on building her modeling career. While the local offers are drying up, she has decided to work for Diva Modeling Agency in Singapore.
"The offer came some time ago, but then I felt more comfortable living in Jakarta, closer to my family and friends," said Abel.
Although she has established a reputation in Jakarta as a model for several products, the 21-year-old had to pass an audition, casting and a month-long probation period in Singapore.
"The results have been encouraging. In a month I have had five shows and I was selected to model in Asia Fashion Connection in Suntex City Singapore in November. Not bad and I can contribute to earning foreign exchange for Indonesia, eh?"
Abel -- who studied public relations at the London School of Public Relations -- wants to open a boutique with her friend Aranxta Adhi when her modeling days are over.
"I will handle the marketing while Aranxta will do the design."
Despite the crisis, Fashion Cafe Jakarta -- the franchise owned by top models Elle MacPherson, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer -- is planning to present modeling awards.
"The tradition will start on the cafe's second anniversary on Nov. 9." said Hotma Tobing, the cafe's public relations manager.
"We have contacted all modeling agencies in Jakarta and at this time we have 30 nominees for five awards," vouched Aida Nurmala Isa from Studio One Jakarta, the event's project manager.
Award categories are "The Legs 98", "The Flair 98", "The Smile 98" for female models, and "The Physique of 98" for male models, and "The Walk 98" for both.
She added that the jury will be chosen from professionals with fashion backgrounds.
Rumors are circulating the top awards will go to Arik Atalarik Syach and Arzetty, not unanimous choices among industry insiders.
"How could you rationalize choosing Arik because he has a good expression on the catwalk, and not because he is a rising star after he played in a television drama?" questioned George, 30, a model for more than a decade.
George, who received top model Indonesia award in 1991, suggested the jurors should be chosen from outside the industry to ensure there would be no bias.