Work is thin on the ground for local models<\/p>\n
By Agni Amorita<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Three years ago, 15-year-old Tracy Trinita won
\nthe first Elite Model Indonesia Contest. She was sent to Seoul to
\ntake part in a World Elite Model contest run by the international
\nmodeling agency.<\/p>\n
Although she was required to wear a swimsuit -- banned by the
\ngovernment in local contests -- Tracy draped a short shawl around
\nher waist. The 180-centimeter-tall junior high school student was
\nselected among the 15 finalists.<\/p>\n
As a reward, she received an annual US$100,000 contract,
\nfirst-class return tickets to Elite's headquarters in New York
\nand living expenses.<\/p>\n
After postponing the contract for a year to finish school, she
\nmodeled on the major catwalks of New York and Milan and for
\nseveral well-known international products.<\/p>\n
Recently, she was chosen by famed Somalian model Iman, David
\nBowie's wife, to become one of the four faces for her new
\nsignature cosmetic line. When Tracy returned to Jakarta last
\nmonth, her face quickly graced several local magazine covers.<\/p>\n
\"I will fly to Paris after this,\" Tracy said recently,
\nmentioning several modeling assignments in the French capital
\nsqueezed into her tight schedule.<\/p>\n
She is paid handsomely for a day's work; she took home
\nUS$10,000 per day for a job in Brazil.<\/p>\n
\"But behind the glamour, modeling is actually toil,\" she said.<\/p>\n
She related how she is required to look beautiful constantly
\n-- smooth skin, pimple-free face, lustrous eyes. There is no
\nexcuse for bags under the eyes, even though sometimes she has to
\ncome home late at night, and she needs great patience.<\/p>\n
Tracy has to wash her hair so that she will be ready for the
\nnext photo session at 9 a.m.; \"ready\" means for her makeup to be
\napplied.<\/p>\n
Amid all the hard work, Tracy is continuing her schooling
\nthrough a correspondence course in the U.S.<\/p>\n
Despite the difficulties and the harsh fact that only a
\nhandful of models ever make it to the top, many Indonesian girls
\nwant to try the business.<\/p>\n
Top local models like Donna Harun, Keke Suryokusumo, Izabel
\nPutri Yahya and Karenina command fees of Rp 500,000 to Rp 750,000
\nfor a night show. Day rates are from Rp 300,000 to Rp 500,000.<\/p>\n
No wonder modeling agencies are flourishing in major cities in
\nthe crisis.<\/p>\n
Two agencies established during the crisis are John
\nCasablancas Indonesia -- founded by John Casablancas, the owner
\nof Elite -- under a franchise controlled by Brigitta Maria. There
\nis also Portfolio Modeling Agency established by flamboyant
\nfashion designer Adjie Notonegoro.<\/p>\n
At the posh inauguration of his agency at Hotel Dharmawangsa
\nin South Jakarta, Adjie's invitees included Minister of Tourism
\nMarzuki Usman, Minister of Transmigration and Resettlement of
\nForest Squatters AM Hendropriyono and businessman Abdul Latief.<\/p>\n
\"I have prepared Portfolio for a while,\" said Adjie when asked
\nabout why he dared to start the enterprise in the crisis. \"Many
\nof my friends are supporting me,\".<\/p>\n
In 1990, Adjie established Carrie Models Indonesia, probably
\nbest known for introducing Avi Basuki to the international
\nmodeling world at the World Top Model 1991 contest in Ankara,
\nTurkey.<\/p>\n
Avi signed a number of modeling contracts in various
\ncountries. A franchise of an international modeling agency based
\nin Singapore, Carrie Models Indonesia went bankrupt in 1994.<\/p>\n
\"There were some management problems,\" Adjie recalled. \"The
\nmost difficult thing was to manage the models, while the most
\nimportant factor in this business is to nurture confidence within
\nthe model.\"<\/p>\n
He is optimistic Portfolio will succeed thanks to his
\nexperience.<\/p>\n
\"Next month's schedule is fully booked. One of the activities
\nis to perform in a fashion show by top Indonesian designers.\"<\/p>\n
Adjie is no doubt hoping his enterprise fares better than
\nExpose Modeling Agency, founded three years ago by models Ratih
\nSanggarwati, Kintan Umari and Larasati Iris Rischa.<\/p>\n
Expose was at its peak in 1996, but now is rarely heard of.<\/p>\n
\"It is mainly caused by the monetary crisis,\" Ratih said,
\nrefuting rumors the running of the business was neglected after
\nshe had a baby two years ago, Kintan married and Larasati, a
\nGerman citizen, became involved in a protracted, highly
\npublicized legal wrangle over her work papers.<\/p>\n
Ratih acknowledged that she would not comprise on her
\nprinciples and said it contributed to the agency's loss of
\nprominence.<\/p>\n
\"Due to the economic crisis, the number of projects have
\ndeclined. Many of our clients asked for discounted fees, while
\nsome even requested free service. In the early years, free shows
\nwere OK as long as the models could practice on the catwalk,\"
\nRatih said.<\/p>\n
\"But the idea can no longer be used like it was three years
\nago as a way to promote Expose. I can't do this again now. This
\nis a principle that I try to explain to the students and their
\nparents so that the students can become truly professional.\"<\/p>\n
Competition is stiffer than ever for jobs.<\/p>\n
\"In July last year, I did three shows a week,\" said 16-year-
\nold Karenina, one of the most prominent Indonesian models today.
\n\"Now, forget about even once a week. I would be really happy if I
\nreceived any modeling offers.\"<\/p>\n
Karenina, or Nina, a junior at Bethel High School in the
\ncapital, is fortunate she still works sporadically.<\/p>\n
\"There have been photo offers and I am still a freelance VJ
\nfor MTV Asia.\" She learned fluent English from her mother, a
\nteacher of the subject.<\/p>\n
Over the past three months, she guest hosted MTV Asia which is
\nbased in Singapore.<\/p>\n
Industry veterans are also finding it hard going. Tiana
\nSapari, 24 and a model for five years, talks in a sad voice about
\nthe lack of work.<\/p>\n
\"Lately, prices, including those of cosmetics, have increased,
\nwhile the orders for jobs have sharply declined.\"<\/p>\n
The dark-skinned, 175 cm woman has had to take a cut in pay.
\n\"Now the fee can be negotiated, and even a 50 discount will do.\"<\/p>\n
Tiana is concentrating more on her new job as a marketing
\ncoordinator for Lippoland.<\/p>\n
Izabel Putri Yahya, or Abel, is focusing on building her
\nmodeling career. While the local offers are drying up, she has
\ndecided to work for Diva Modeling Agency in Singapore.<\/p>\n
\"The offer came some time ago, but then I felt more
\ncomfortable living in Jakarta, closer to my family and friends,\"
\nsaid Abel.<\/p>\n
Although she has established a reputation in Jakarta as a
\nmodel for several products, the 21-year-old had to pass an
\naudition, casting and a month-long probation period in Singapore.<\/p>\n
\"The results have been encouraging. In a month I have had five
\nshows and I was selected to model in Asia Fashion Connection in
\nSuntex City Singapore in November. Not bad and I can contribute
\nto earning foreign exchange for Indonesia, eh?\"<\/p>\n
Abel -- who studied public relations at the London School of
\nPublic Relations -- wants to open a boutique with her friend
\nAranxta Adhi when her modeling days are over.<\/p>\n
\"I will handle the marketing while Aranxta will do the
\ndesign.\"<\/p>\n
Despite the crisis, Fashion Cafe Jakarta -- the franchise
\nowned by top models Elle MacPherson, Naomi Campbell and Claudia
\nSchiffer -- is planning to present modeling awards.<\/p>\n
\"The tradition will start on the cafe's second anniversary on
\nNov. 9.\" said Hotma Tobing, the cafe's public relations manager.<\/p>\n
\"We have contacted all modeling agencies in Jakarta and at
\nthis time we have 30 nominees for five awards,\" vouched Aida
\nNurmala Isa from Studio One Jakarta, the event's project manager.<\/p>\n
Award categories are \"The Legs 98\", \"The Flair 98\", \"The Smile
\n98\" for female models, and \"The Physique of 98\" for male models,
\nand \"The Walk 98\" for both.<\/p>\n
She added that the jury will be chosen from professionals with
\nfashion backgrounds.<\/p>\n
Rumors are circulating the top awards will go to Arik Atalarik
\nSyach and Arzetty, not unanimous choices among industry insiders.<\/p>\n
\"How could you rationalize choosing Arik because he has a good
\nexpression on the catwalk, and not because he is a rising star
\nafter he played in a television drama?\" questioned George, 30, a
\nmodel for more than a decade.<\/p>\n
George, who received top model Indonesia award in 1991,
\nsuggested the jurors should be chosen from outside the industry
\nto ensure there would be no bias.<\/p>",
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