Watch out, it's scary demons everywhere

Watch out, it's scary demons everywhere

I Wayan Juniartha, The Jakarta Post, Denpasar, Bali

Balinese youth have a very unique way of reminding everybody
that Nyepi, the Hindu Day of Silence, is near: by trying to scare
everybody off.

Take for instance the youth of Bengkel, a small suburban
hamlet in Denpasar. They have erected a three-meter tall, ugly
looking doll of the traditional long-haired witch character
Rangda in front of their community hall, which happens to be
conveniently located next to a busy intersection.

In broad daylight the doll surely will not be able to frighten
anybody, not even a small child. But, what if you happen to pass
that road after midnight, when the street is deserted and the
chilling darkness surrounds you, and all of sudden your car's
front lamps gradually reveal a huge hairy figure, with long
fingernails, four sets of dreadful fangs looking down at you with
a menacing grin on its face? You will certainly hold your breath
for a moment in fright.

"Well, let me assure you we harbor no intention of frightening
passing motorists. But if the doll is, somehow, delivering that
kind of effect, than it means that we have done a pretty good job
of making it so realistic," a local youth said solemnly.

Yes, they have done a good job of it, so have numerous other
youth organizations across Denpasar. That is the reason why in
the past couple of days the city's streets seem to have been
taken over by hundreds of monstrous creatures. The chariot-
riding, purple (yes, purple!) giant at Sesetan Street, three
screaming ogres at Balun and two fighting Rangda on busy Kartini
Street are a few other examples of that fine job.

"We have to place it (the doll) in an open area, like next to
the street because of the doll's huge size. Another obvious
reason is, we want to show off our work for all the people to
see," he said.

Initially, the giant dolls, popularly known as ogoh-ogoh, were
created as the symbol of demonic spirits. In the Ngerupuk ritual,
a sort of exorcism ritual taking place the night before Nyepi,
the ogoh-ogoh are paraded around the village area to ward off any
evil spirits.

In the parade, the ogoh-ogoh is accompanied by hundreds of
screaming people carrying torches, striking gongs or manipulating
any sound-producing implements available in an apparent attempt
to scare away the demons. At the end of the ritual, the ogoh-ogoh
is usually taken to the village's main intersection and set on
fire.

A day after the Ngerupuk ritual, Bali will become a deserted
island when everybody observes the no fire, no travel, no work,
and no leisure regulations of Nyepi. This year, Nyepi, the day of
total silence and contemplation, will fall on April 13.

The tradition of creating ogoh-ogoh became popular in the
middle of the 1980s. Now, it has became somewhat of a routine
event, with each youth group spending millions of rupiah making
ogoh-ogoh. The necessary money is raised by asking the members of
the local banjar (hamlet) for donations.

The doll is usually made of wood or bamboo, which is later
covered with papier-mache, used paper and styrofoam, before it is
painted with striking colors. In the early days, the artists drew
their inspiration from Balinese folklore and Hindu mythology,
where demonic characters with intimidating physical appearances
were easy to find. The giant Bhuta or Raksasa, the witch Rangda
and the dragon Naga were the most common forms of ogoh-ogoh at
that time.

These days, they are also exploiting demonic characters from
different cultural ponds. The all black, hooded and faceless
angel of death, with a big scythe is one of the first foreign
demonic characters adopted by the Balinese youth. Then came the
all black, hooded and faceless figure brandishing a giant
syringe, the Demon of Narcotics, or the giant trolls or witches
with hoods and brooms.

"It's no longer a matter of creating a symbol of demonic
spirits. Ogoh-ogoh has now became a medium through which Balinese
youth channel their collective artistic urges and through which
they unconsciously reveal the dynamic change of their surrounding
cultural and social landscape. They are not duplicating the 'old'
demons of the ancient scriptures, instead they are portraying the
'new' temptations of this modern world," local cultural observer
Sugi B. Lanus explains.

Well, that explains the Satanic Shinchan ogoh-ogoh in the
Lebah hamlet. The ogoh-ogoh is obviously inspired by the popular
Japanese comic book and cartoon character Crayon Shinchan, a
source of incessant heated debate between parents, who dislike
Shinchan for his socially "unacceptable" attitude, and his fans,
who are thrilled by his unpredictable naivete.

In some respects, this new development will surely make the
upcoming Ngerupuk ritual, which will fall on the night of April
12, more colorful and entertaining. And, honestly, I am looking
forward to seeing the Ogoh-ogoh of the Teletubbies characters
reportedly created by the youths at the village of Sibang.

Those cute and colorful Tinky, Winky, Dipsy, Laa-laa, and Po
characters undoubtedly will heal my trauma caused by bumping into
the scary Rangda. So, happy Nyepi!

Things you can and cannot do during Nyepi

On April 13, Balinese Hindus will observe the Hindu Day of
Silence, or Nyepi Day, by following the four brata (prohibitions)
of not lighting fires, not working, not traveling and not
partaking in any leisure activities.

The streets will be empty, public services will be halted and
shops and entertainment venues will be closed down.

Groups of Pecalang (traditional guards), adult males wearing
black or red shirts with checkered black and white sarongs and
carrying kris, will patrol the streets in their respective areas
to enforce the prohibitions. These guards usually take their
duties seriously. The Pecalang in villages near resort areas,
such as Kuta, Sanur and Nusa Dua, are generally stricter than in
any other area in Bali.

Visitors and non-Hindu residents are expected to show respect
by also observing the four prohibitions. Foreign tourists staying
in hotels are advised to check with the hotel management on any
particular arrangements prepared by the hotel for Nyepi Day.
Swimming, sunbathing or jogging on the beach are strictly out of
question.

If there is an emergency, ask for the assistance of the local
Pecalang.

* The Ngurah Rai International Airport (0361-751011/751020)
will close at 6 a.m. on April 13 and will resume operations the
next day at 6 a.m. No flights, domestic or international, will be
available during that period. The airport authorities will
provide services only to transit flights and any flights that
must land due to an emergency.

* The Padangbay Seaport (0364-41515), some 70 kilometers east
of Denpasar will close at 6 a.m. on April 13, and will resume its
operations the next day at 6 a.m.

* The Gilimanuk Seaport (0365-61259), some 130 kilometers west
of Denpasar, will be closed from 6 a.m. on April 13 to 6 a.m. the
following day. The port authority will begin halting operations
at midnight. Any passengers who come to the port after this time
will still be able to cross to Java aboard a ship that will be on
stand-by until 5 a.m. on April 13.

* The Benoa Harbor (0361-720225/721122) will stop issuing port
clearances for inbound and outbound ships from 6 a.m. on April 13
until 6 a.m. the next day. Crews of those ships anchored in the
harbor will not be allowed to engage in any activities, including
turning on lamps.

* The Bali Central Hospital in Sanglah (0361-227911) will
operate as usual. Ambulance services will be available for
medical emergencies, but will be escorted by hospital security
guards dressed in Pecalang's attire.