Traces of syncretic kingdom in West Sumatra

Traces of syncretic kingdom in West Sumatra

Tiarma Siboro and Muninggar Sri Saraswati, The Jakarta Post,
Padang, West Sumatra

The village is located in a remote area in Siguntur district
in Sawahlunto Sijunjung regency, West Sumatra, accessible only by
a 25-minute ponton (traditional wooden boat) trip down Batanghari
river, followed by a walk along a four-kilometer stretch of unlit
road.

Nobody would believe that eight centuries ago, the village was
the seat of Dharmmasraya Kingdom that embraced Hindu, Buddhist
and Islamic cultures. Its first king, Tribhuwana Mauliwarmmadewa,
reigned around 1286 and was believed to have developed links with
King Krtanegara, or Kartanegara, of the Singosari Kingdom in
Java.

Relations between the two kingdoms developed thanks to the
discovery of a Buddhist Amoghapasa statue that dates back to
1286. King Krtanegara sent the statue to King Tribhuwana from
Java to Swarnabhumi (Sumatra).

Historians believe that Dharmmasraya was actually under
Singosari's rule after the latter started the Pamalayu expedition
in the 13th century in an attempt to, among others, dominate the
pepper trade along Batanghari river.

The river runs through Bukit Barisan mountain range.

Batanghari river was also the main access route to major towns
in West Sumatra and Jambi kingdoms of the past.

Tribhuwana was succeeded by King Akarendrawan, King
Adityawarman, and King Ananggawarman respectively.

Adityawarman, who was half Javanese and also the most popular
king in the history of West Sumatra's kingdom, extended his power
and finally moved the palace to Batu Sangkar regency, West
Sumatra, in 1347. Later on the kingdom was referred to as the
Pagarruyung Kingdom.

Little was known about the history of the Dharmmasraya Kingdom
until a team of archeologists from the West Sumatra Ancient
Heritage Conservation Center revealed in 1995 that they were
conducting a study on historical sites believed to show new
evidence marking the meeting of Hindu, Buddhist, and Islamic
cultures. The archeological artifacts were found in Pulau Sawah,
Bukit Awang, Padang Roco, Rambahan and Padang Laweh areas.

"The artifacts, which tell of Hindu and Buddhist influences
are in the form of monuments and relics, such as temple
complexes, statues and jewelry. Later, the arrival of Islam in
the region influenced local architecture, including rumah gadang
(a traditional mansion), the mausoleum, and also the ancient
mosque of Siguntur," Budi Istiawan, a member of the team who
started excavation in the area in 1995, told The Jakarta Post.

During his excavation, Budi set off to reconstruct the temple
complex, namely Candi Padangroco which comprises four temples.
The biggest is called Candi Padangroco I. The three other smaller
temples are called Candi Padangroco II, Candi Padangroco III and
Candi Padangroco IV.

"All of these temples were made of bricks that were twice the
size of present-day bricks. The size of the bricks indicates that
the bricks were made during the era of ancient Hindu-Buddhist
architecture," said Budi from Yogyakarta-based Gadjah Mada
University (UGM).

As it was missing hundreds of bricks, Budi could only
reconstruct the lower part of Candi Padangroco I measuring 95
centimeters high, 20.5 meters long and 20.5 meters wide.

"The original temples were higher, but since the local people
did not realize that these stacks of bricks were part of a
valuable heritage, they used them to build their houses and
mosques," Budi said.

Candi Padangroco I also has four entrance staircases at its
sides which lead to the center part of the temple.

Candi Padangroco II is located some 15 meters to the southwest
of Padangroco I. Like the major temple, Budi could only
reconstruct the lower part of the temple measuring 1.4 meters
high and consisting of 35 layers of bricks.

Meanwhile, the team of archeologists is currently trying to
reconstruct Candi Padangroco III which is located some 15 meters
to the southeast of the major temple. These three temples form a
triangle.

"This temple has suffered serious damage as the remaining
bricks could only be used to rebuild seven layers of bricks of
the original temple estimated to be 19 meters in height and 8
meters in width," Budi said.

Candi Padangroco III consists of two parts: the eastern part
and western part, both of a similar size, each part having a
smaller structure inside.

The last temple -- also the worst damaged -- is called Candi
Padangroco IV. It was discovered in 2001 and is located at the
back of Candi Padangroco II. Budi is currently trying to
reconstruct this temple using bricks found scattered around its
vicinity.

"Some of these temples have also suffered serious damage due
to their age," he said.

"These buildings are proof that in the ancient past various
activities took place here," Budi said.

Separately, a gigantic stone has also been discovered in
Limapuluh Kota regency, although it remains a question whether or
not it dates back to the Megalithic era.

Based on the lines drawn on the stone's surface, local people
in Taeh Bukik village, some 120 kilometers east of Padang, where
the stone is located, believe that it is a stone relief of a map
of an ancient kingdom. Nevertheless, it is unclear which kingdom
they refer to.

Locals also call the stone Batu Barabono (Barabono Stone).

A myth has it that the stone sometimes lights up in twilight,
and that once a young woman -- believed to be a spirit --
appeared near the stone.

According to Taeh Bukik villagers, certain state officials
from Jakarta once visited the village and held prayers in front
of the stone.

"We plan to invite historians to conduct research here,"
Sjafril, an official of the local tourism office, told the Post.

Nevertheless, Budi said that the team of archeologists had not
yet studied the location and were still collecting data on the
possible link between the stone and the Buddhist temple of
Borobudur in Yogyakarta.