Surakarta's old museum seeks a fresh look

Bambang M, Contributor, Surakarta, Central Java

On a dull morning, with little else to do in Surakarta, a family explored the colonial-style Museum Radya Pustaka on Jl. Slamet Riyadi. There was no guide available to assist them, nor were the exhibits, such as an organ, ceramic pieces, stone statues, a gamelan and weaponry, adequately lit.

Twenty minutes of traipsing around the 533-square museum was enough for the family from Jakarta, who had, after all,"just dropped by after attending a wedding reception." They took some photographs of the artifacts, mostly from the ancient Surakarta palace, and left.

In fact the historical significance of the museum, which was built in the 1800s, seems to have been ignored. No wonder, there is no electric lighting and the atmosphere is one of creeping silence. Hardly, elements that would encourage children to visit.

One room, where a figurehead or canthik called Kiai Rojomolo is displayed is almost entirely dark.

Everything is shabby, the collection of leather puppets in the front room is in disorder, the pages of thousands of old manuscripts of prominent Javanese scholars, like Ronggowarsito and Yosodipuro, are yellowing. In fact these manuscripts, along with the other exhibits, are important keys in understanding the mysteries of Javanese culture.

But no additional information on the exhibits is provided. While it is true that a picture speaks a thousand words, museum head KRH Darmodipuro's explanation that, "We thought they (the exhibits) were enough," falls short of impressive.

In 1990, the building was renovated at a cost of Rp 50 million (US$5,900). The museum is not owned by the government, but by a foundation called Paheman Radya Pustaka. Surakarta's Agency of Tourism, Arts and Culture of Surakarta donated Rp 100 million to the museum in 2002. But in 2003, they donated only Rp 40 million.

Several institutions like Museum Ronggowarsito in Semarang, The Archeology Agency of Central Java, and the Agency of Tourism, Arts and Culture of Surakarta, have also helped by paying the salaries of some employees of the museum.

Museum guide, Ambar, said that certain significant pieces in the museum, such as bronze statues, were kept under lock-and-key.

"This is one of the complaints of visitors, especially foreigners," she said. The relung rambut Buddha (large bronze head of Buddha literally called amid the hair of Buddha) and Avalokitesvara statue are among those pieces rarely on public display.

Experts believe that the Relung rambut Buddha, which was found in Gantiwarno, Klaten, Central Java, was the head of a four-meter tall statue of a seated Buddha, originally from the Sewu Temple in Prambanan.

The Avalokitesvara statue, according to Padmopuspita J. in the book Nawa Windu -- which was published to observe the 72nd anniversary of Museum Radya Pustaka -- was the visualization of the magic light of Dhyani Budha Amitabha. Standing at around 32 centimeters, the statue is of a man in a seated position, with three sets of arms. Parts of the statue are silver or gold plated.

But despite the obvious worth of the exhibits, Darmodipuro said that, "We don't have any special employee to watch the room."

The museum also houses microfilm of thousands of ancient Javanese manuscripts, the documentation of Nancy Florida, an American citizen who steeped herself in ancient Javanese literature in the 1980s. The microfilm and the projector are kept in a cupboard in Darmodipuro's office. The microfilm has been badly damaged as the room is damp and not air conditioned.

"What can we do? We don't have enough money to equip our rooms with air conditioners," Darmodipuro said.

Due to poor security, thieves have broken into the museum on more than one occasion. A statue called Argastya and several ancient manuscripts were stolen in 2000.

According to museum employee Sri Rahayu, a book, believed to be the oldest one in the country, was also stolen from the museum. It is titled Kakawin Bharatayudha and was written by Empu Sedah in Javanese in 1157.

The oft-cited excuse for the museum's appalling state is lack of money. Despite donations, the museum is running at a loss. The monthly income from the entrance fee, which is Rp 1,000 per person, is only Rp 500,000. Darmodipuro said he had asked wealthy people in Surakarta to help out, but to no avail.

Even the Surakarta administration seems to be half-hearted in its efforts to save the musuem.

"We have our own interest in maintaining this cultural asset, so we help with operational costs," said Ibnu Haryadi, head of the Supervision and Development of Art and Cultural Assets sub-agency under the Agency of Tourism, Arts and Culture of Surakarta.

"To manage a museum professionally, the ownership must be clear," Ibnu added, suggesting that the government would manage the museum better.

Darmodipuro agreed but lamented that then-minister of education and culture, Fuad Hassan, had rejected the idea.

"Would it be any better if the museum was managed by the government?" he quoted the then-minister as saying.

The history of the museum began with the establishment of an institute, called Paheman Radya Pustaka on Oct. 28, 1890, by KRA Sosrodingrat IV, a patih (minister) of Kasunanan Surakarta Palace during the administration of Paku Buwono IX.

The institute was set up to develop Javanese culture through the preservation of manuscripts and various other historical items. Paheman Radya Pustaka literally means a collection of books of the palace. The institute also published Javanese magazines called Sasadara and Tjandrakanta.

As time went by, the museum boasted more and more exhibits. Most of them were from the palace and KRA Sosrodingrat IV or were donated by other people. Paheman Radya Pustaka is believed to be the oldest institute of science established by Indonesians. One of its contributions was to regulate the written Javanese language in a publication called Sri Wedari (to spelling) in 1922.

On Jan. 1, 1913, Paheman Radya Pustaka moved from Ndalem Kepatihan to Lodji Kadipolo (the current location of the museum). Lodji Kadipolo formerly belonged to a Dutch man, Johannes Busselaar. Sunan Pakubuwono X purchased the land for 65,000 Netherlands guilder and gave it to Paheman Radya Pustaka. In 1953, the institute became the foundation that manages the museum at present.

With such a history, the museum should be managed professionally regardless of its ownership. Concrete action to preserve the musuem and the country's cultural heritage for the next generation not be delayed.