Sjamsidar speaks on fashion's future

Sjamsidar speaks on fashion's future

T. Sima Gunawan, Contributor, Jakarta, tabita@cbn.net.id

The reform era, which allowed for freedom of expression in the
country, also breathed new life into the world of fashion.

People dressed in a more audacious manner, while designers
were more creative, according to Sjamsidar Isa, chairwoman of the
executive board of the Indonesian Designers Association.

"Globalization and freedom of expression affected the people
as well as the designers. These days they do not hesitate to
express themselves by experimenting and exploring new ideas, as
seen over the last five years," the 58-year-old Sjamsidar,
affectionately known as Tjamy, said.

"When we talk about fashion, I should underline that we are
not necessarily referring to glamor," she added.

Made-to-order garments may cost millions of rupiah but those
that are ready to wear are much less expensive.

Exclusive boutiques in the city often carry runway-favorites
from the latest collections of local and international designers.
For those with an eye for fashion (but not the purse to match it)
a cheaper alternative is to head to Mangga Dua shopping center in
North Jakarta or Tanah Abang market in Central Jakarta.

Even roadside stands stock funky accessories, if you know what
to look for.

Fashion, Sjamsidar says, is much more than good dress sense.
Indeed, while many embrace it as a lifestyle, those that are
serious about fashion use it to reference history, popular music
or their own lives, for example.

While Sjamsidar is not a fashion designer, her background is
in the arts. She danced as a child and later studied textile
design in Dusseldorf, Germany, where she lived for seven years.

"But after just two days of sketching designs for textiles I
left and worked as an assistant to Iwan Tirta," she said,
referring to the fashion designer, famous for his use of batik.

On her third working day, Iwan, who was busy with many orders
for uniforms, asked Sjamsidar to take care of the project. Since
then, she has been involved in fashion in a managerial context.

Sjamsidar resigned after working for Iwan for two years. Along
with two designers, Prajudi and Lily Salim, she established a new
company called Studio One in 1975. The idea was to market one-off
pieces as off-the-rack garments were not yet popular here.

The new company was introduced to the public via fashion shows
and other events, which were so well executed that other
designers approached Studio One to ask for help in organizing
their own promotional activities.

Sjamisdar enjoyed her knew job and in the early 1980s, decided
to pursue her career in public relations and become an event
organizer.

"You don't know what you will be. You might study a certain
field, but when you work, you might do something totally
different. It depends on many factors," she said.

In 1985 Sjamsidar and some fashion designers like Prajudi,
Susan Budihardjo, Ghea Panggabean and Poppy Dharsono, established
the Association of Indonesian Designers (IPMI). Like other
artists, fashion designers are somewhat sensitive and can be
competitive.

It was agreed that the organization should not be chaired by a
fashion designer. But, as the right person for the position
needed a deep understanding of fashion, Sjamsidar was asked to be
chairwoman. She still holds the position.

In the late 1980s, however, Poppy and some members of IPMI
decided to set up a new organization called the Indonesian
Fashion Designer Entrepreneurs' Association (APPMI).

Sjamsidar was born in Palembang, South Sumatra. She was the
youngest of three children and her father, Mohamad Isa, was the
first governor of the province. The young Sjamsidar was a keen
dancer and even won the national level of the Serampang Dua Belas
dance festival.

"When I was in junior high school, I taught dancing," she
said.

After finishing junior high school, she told her parents that
she wanted to be independent and moved to Bogor, West Java,
where she studied at Regina Pacis high school and stayed in the
school dorm.

She later studied economics at the University of Indonesia but
left to join her brother and sister -- who were studying in
Germany -- after just one year, as Indonesia was plunged into
chaos with the attempted coup of 1965.

Sjamsidar, who is married to her high school classmate -- an
interior designer who also studied in Germany -- has three
children. The eldest, Aida Nurmala, is one of the stars of the
recently-released drama/comedy Arisan.

Aida, studied hotel management in Australia and Switzerland
and worked in the industry here for a while. But she did not
really enjoy life as a hotelier and began to show an interest in
the arts.

At her own request, Sjamsidar was appointed director of Studio
One, while her mother works with her as the company's president
director.

"I trust my daughter to handle the company and let her work in
her own way," said Sjamsidar, adding that she did not want to be
like many parents who half-heartedly let their children run the
family business.

Sjamsidar, who is also founder of the Batik Foundation, is
delighted to have been able to contribute to the fashion
industry.

"At least, I have done something to make fashion a part of
society," she said.

But her work is far from over, Sjamsidar observes that the
industry could potentially provide many more jobs as it grows and
develops.

"I really want to see Jakarta become the city of fashion. This
is not easy, but if there is synergy among fashion designers and
textile manufacturers, I believe we can make it," she said