Sjamsidar speaks on fashion's future<\/p>\n
T. Sima Gunawan, Contributor, Jakarta, tabita@cbn.net.id<\/p>\n
The reform era, which allowed for freedom of expression in the
\ncountry, also breathed new life into the world of fashion.<\/p>\n
People dressed in a more audacious manner, while designers
\nwere more creative, according to Sjamsidar Isa, chairwoman of the
\nexecutive board of the Indonesian Designers Association.<\/p>\n
\"Globalization and freedom of expression affected the people
\nas well as the designers. These days they do not hesitate to
\nexpress themselves by experimenting and exploring new ideas, as
\nseen over the last five years,\" the 58-year-old Sjamsidar,
\naffectionately known as Tjamy, said.<\/p>\n
\"When we talk about fashion, I should underline that we are
\nnot necessarily referring to glamor,\" she added.<\/p>\n
Made-to-order garments may cost millions of rupiah but those
\nthat are ready to wear are much less expensive.<\/p>\n
Exclusive boutiques in the city often carry runway-favorites
\nfrom the latest collections of local and international designers.
\nFor those with an eye for fashion (but not the purse to match it)
\na cheaper alternative is to head to Mangga Dua shopping center in
\nNorth Jakarta or Tanah Abang market in Central Jakarta.<\/p>\n
Even roadside stands stock funky accessories, if you know what
\nto look for.<\/p>\n
Fashion, Sjamsidar says, is much more than good dress sense.
\nIndeed, while many embrace it as a lifestyle, those that are
\nserious about fashion use it to reference history, popular music
\nor their own lives, for example.<\/p>\n
While Sjamsidar is not a fashion designer, her background is
\nin the arts. She danced as a child and later studied textile
\ndesign in Dusseldorf, Germany, where she lived for seven years.<\/p>\n
\"But after just two days of sketching designs for textiles I
\nleft and worked as an assistant to Iwan Tirta,\" she said,
\nreferring to the fashion designer, famous for his use of batik.<\/p>\n
On her third working day, Iwan, who was busy with many orders
\nfor uniforms, asked Sjamsidar to take care of the project. Since
\nthen, she has been involved in fashion in a managerial context.<\/p>\n
Sjamsidar resigned after working for Iwan for two years. Along
\nwith two designers, Prajudi and Lily Salim, she established a new
\ncompany called Studio One in 1975. The idea was to market one-off
\npieces as off-the-rack garments were not yet popular here.<\/p>\n
The new company was introduced to the public via fashion shows
\nand other events, which were so well executed that other
\ndesigners approached Studio One to ask for help in organizing
\ntheir own promotional activities.<\/p>\n
Sjamisdar enjoyed her knew job and in the early 1980s, decided
\nto pursue her career in public relations and become an event
\norganizer.<\/p>\n
\"You don't know what you will be. You might study a certain
\nfield, but when you work, you might do something totally
\ndifferent. It depends on many factors,\" she said.<\/p>\n
In 1985 Sjamsidar and some fashion designers like Prajudi,
\nSusan Budihardjo, Ghea Panggabean and Poppy Dharsono, established
\nthe Association of Indonesian Designers (IPMI). Like other
\nartists, fashion designers are somewhat sensitive and can be
\ncompetitive.<\/p>\n
It was agreed that the organization should not be chaired by a
\nfashion designer. But, as the right person for the position
\nneeded a deep understanding of fashion, Sjamsidar was asked to be
\nchairwoman. She still holds the position.<\/p>\n
In the late 1980s, however, Poppy and some members of IPMI
\ndecided to set up a new organization called the Indonesian
\nFashion Designer Entrepreneurs' Association (APPMI).<\/p>\n
Sjamsidar was born in Palembang, South Sumatra. She was the
\nyoungest of three children and her father, Mohamad Isa, was the
\nfirst governor of the province. The young Sjamsidar was a keen
\ndancer and even won the national level of the Serampang Dua Belas
\ndance festival.<\/p>\n
\"When I was in junior high school, I taught dancing,\" she
\nsaid.<\/p>\n
After finishing junior high school, she told her parents that
\nshe wanted to be independent and moved to Bogor, West Java,
\nwhere she studied at Regina Pacis high school and stayed in the
\nschool dorm.<\/p>\n
She later studied economics at the University of Indonesia but
\nleft to join her brother and sister -- who were studying in
\nGermany -- after just one year, as Indonesia was plunged into
\nchaos with the attempted coup of 1965.<\/p>\n
Sjamsidar, who is married to her high school classmate -- an
\ninterior designer who also studied in Germany -- has three
\nchildren. The eldest, Aida Nurmala, is one of the stars of the
\nrecently-released drama\/comedy Arisan.<\/p>\n
Aida, studied hotel management in Australia and Switzerland
\nand worked in the industry here for a while. But she did not
\nreally enjoy life as a hotelier and began to show an interest in
\nthe arts.<\/p>\n
At her own request, Sjamsidar was appointed director of Studio
\nOne, while her mother works with her as the company's president
\ndirector.<\/p>\n
\"I trust my daughter to handle the company and let her work in
\nher own way,\" said Sjamsidar, adding that she did not want to be
\nlike many parents who half-heartedly let their children run the
\nfamily business.<\/p>\n
Sjamsidar, who is also founder of the Batik Foundation, is
\ndelighted to have been able to contribute to the fashion
\nindustry.<\/p>\n
\"At least, I have done something to make fashion a part of
\nsociety,\" she said.<\/p>\n
But her work is far from over, Sjamsidar observes that the
\nindustry could potentially provide many more jobs as it grows and
\ndevelops.<\/p>\n
\"I really want to see Jakarta become the city of fashion. This
\nis not easy, but if there is synergy among fashion designers and
\ntextile manufacturers, I believe we can make it,\" she said<\/p>",
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