Sebastian Gunawan: Western-influenced charm in second line
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
What is West and what is East, designer Biyan Wanaatmadja once asked.
"Everybody has different strengths and sensitivity. Why is it that Western designers can create something Asian but not vice versa? We all wear the same kind of clothes daily," he said.
Therefore, if the latest collection of designer Sebastian Gunawan accentuates a Spanish and Bohemian spirit rather than batik, for example, why not?
At least local customers can pursue clothes with such style that is more affordable than Dior's, for instance.
Besides, it also requires talent to adopt the so-called Western style, and Sebastian obviously has that.
Along with wife and fellow designer Cristina Panarese, Sebastian presented a collection on Thursday that is elegant, clean-cut and rich in detail.
The fashion show at Hotel Mulia in Senayan, Central Jakarta, was the first public presentation of the couple's second line called SEBASTIAN'S.Sebastian & Cristina, or also known as the red label.
The first line, Sebastian Gunawan, is a haute couture which specializes in evening and ball gowns.
This second line is a collection of women's ready-to-wear outfits but more luxurious. The theme was Eclectic Emotion.
"We call it eclectic because in daily life, everything has blended in terms of culture. There are no boundaries anymore, and we are free to choose.
"We are inspired by so many cultural elements from all over the world. From East European folklore, to Victorian style, Spanish and Bohemian, to Asian. Cross-cultural is the theme from where we drew our inspiration," Sebastian said after the show.
The theme was implied in funky yet elegant outfits -- a total of 85 outfits. They range from a 1920s style of gown with hip line to high waisted dress; mini skirt, long skirt and also full clock.
Poncho blouse, jacket and matador pants also exist. Each item is combined with another, such as the combination of a 20s kimono lingerie style outfit with a Spanish fringe.
The silhouettes are varied, from the fitted and figure accentuating to the wide, more abstract volume like the flamenco dress.
Sebastian and Cristina use a lot of brocades, saying that the fabric represents many characteristics: feminine, sexy or light. Rough textured material is mixed with softer ones in this collection. There are also chiffon, tulle, lace, crepe, taffeta and leather.
The Indonesian touch comes in material similar to ikat (hand woven cloth) and natural colors like brown, red, beige and green.
The collection is rich in details, with fringes being the most exploited accent, created from different materials, like wooden beads and thread.
Wool embroidery, ruffles and leather Art Deco style flowers also feature in some of the outfits.
The eclectic spirit also appears in accessories, with crystal, wood, paillette and beads woven into long necklaces inspired by 1920s chandeliers.
There are also corals and semi precious stones arranged on leather and suede.
Fashion consultant Muara Bagdja said the collection is very fresh, especially with the comeback of the mini skirt.
"This collection is definitely lighter than Sebastian's first line. Yet it's still elegant. Indonesian women like that kind of style, rather than funky or street wear style because it also looks fancy," he said.