Thu, 10 Nov 1994

Restauranteurs target local market

JAKARTA (JP): In this area of emerging markets and appetites, the needs of certain restaurant enthusiasts tend to go unnoticed. Luxury hotels and five-star restaurants continue to spring up in Jakarta, catering to the palates and pocketbooks of a chosen few. Now, one can now find delicacies from just about any corner of the globe -- for a price.

Though the proliferation of such establishments is usually accompanied by an increased awareness of foreign cuisine, essentially a positive development, those bereft of bulging bank accounts tend to stay in and leave the globe-trotting gourmands to their tables in the corner.

Two new locales have arrived in Jakarta not so much to win over those who have fallen through the culinary cracks but rather to provide simple, quality dining at more moderate prices.

Restoran Nightmare Pizzeria Italiano was the dream of 35 year old Angelo Giallombardo who left his hometown of Siena, in the bucolic Italian region of Tuscany, to try his luck on the streets of this Indonesian metropolis.

"I traveled through Indonesia a couple of years ago and knew at that time that I was going to be back," recalls Giallombardo.

Though Jakarta is already home to a number of quality Italian restaurants, Nightmare is the first genuine pizzeria to open in the city. The owners have not only imported an Italian wood pizza oven, critical to a toasty crust, but also a seasoned pizza maker from Salerno, Micheli Cuozzo.

These authentic touches were part and parcel in their goal of setting out to create the type of establishment that they themselves were accustomed to frequenting back home.

"We wanted to create an ambience where people could come, socialize and play board games while having something wholesome to eat -- at any hour."

Located at Jl. Abdul Muis No. 72 A, in front of the Tanamur discotheque and just down the street from the Grand Metro Equatorial Hotel, selections from Nightmare's menu can be had 24 hours a day, seven days a week. "Thus we chose the name 'Nightmare.'" says Giallombardo, "We originally wanted to create something along the lines of a haunted house but in the end decided to keep it more thematic than horrific. Some people may have found it difficult to eat with a severed head staring at them during their antipasti."

Vaffanculo

One may choose from over a dozen different kinds of freshly- made pizzas created mostly from ingredients imported from Italy. The All'Ortolana is a very delicate vegetarian pizza, and though I found the use of cucumbers an unnecessary topping, the pizza as a whole was quite savory. One may also opt for 4 Formaggi, four cheeses, or the Vaffanculo, a specially Mediterranean combination of artichokes, olives and anchovies. For a pizza without any tomato sauce whatsoever, try the Fume.

As a primi piatti, Nightmare does a nice job with their fusilli alla puttanesca, cooked al dente and with plenty of garlic. The cafe-style menu also includes an international array of crepes, sandwiches, steaks, salads, omelettes and a healthy selection of Italian desserts and coffees available to those with enough extra belt space.

For those hobbling out of a disco at indecent hours of the morning, or for anyone more inclined to nocturnal activity, Nightmare also has a fully-stocked bar. Beer is reasonably priced around Rp 5000 for domestic and Rp 9,000 for imported, with wines, long drinks and cocktails costing a bit more.

As for the food, appetizers range from between Rp 6,500 to Rp 12,000 and pastas and pizzas run from about Rp 7,500 to Rp 14,000. Steaks will cost you a bit more and for the more fancy desserts, such as their homemade tiramisu, one can expect to pay Rp 5000 to 8000. Visitors interested in something light and sweet will be pleasantly satisfied by the wonderful nocciola, stracciatella, caffe and other flavors of Italian ice creams and sorbets.

Nightmare's appeal lies mainly in the fact that it makes no pretensions and simply hopes to attract a generally younger clientele, ages 15 - 35 according to the proprietors, who don't necessarily want to go to a mall or hotel to have a nice meal.

The walls are lively decorated with framed horror movie posters and original paintings and the atmosphere is quite airy and warm. The wait staff appear able, though somewhat awkward at times, and are relentlessly attentive, a trait typical to most establishments in Jakarta. Nightmare seats about 100 people and with two floors, the upper-level can easily be booked for private parties and business gatherings.

New kid in town

Another savvy business decision has been made by the owners of Sandwich Kid, stepping in to fill the under-represented market of delivery lunch foods and desserts.

For those familiar with Marks and Spencer, Sandwich Kid offers a very similar service with their hygienically heat-sealed sandwiches chilled and delivered to all metropolitan locations.

The sandwiches are quite tasty and can be tailor made to order for any business affair, be it a luncheon or an office snack. All the meats used are halal and nearly everything that goes into the sandwiches is homemade.

Their "egg mayonnaise with beef 'bacon'" sandwich is quite nice with the bacon being almost indistinguishable from the real thing. The "rich chocolate cake" is indeed rich, though a little to heavy and frosting intensive. It does, however, more than serve the purpose for those chocoholics in need of a quick fix.

Although Sandwich Kid places a premium on convenience, there are a couple of snags that need to be worked out. They are still unable to deliver on the same day and all orders must be placed 12 hours in advance. In addition, the minimum order is Rp 70,000 per delivery, making it a little difficult for any individual with a sudden urge for carrot cake to just pick up the phone and order.

Such kinks will most likely be worked out by next year as the Sandwich Kid plans to open a shop in the Bapindo Center on Jl. Sudirman. In the meantime, Sandwich Kid products are available at Kem Chicks and Hero supermarkets and can be ordered by phone or fax at 846.0863.

-- Jason Tedjasukmana