Playboys, rock stars and pretty boys come out in Paris
Playboys, rock stars and pretty boys come out in Paris
Dominique Ageorges, Agence France-Presse, Paris
With skin-tight waistcoats and a color palette based on skin tone, Jean-Paul Gaultier unveiled a menswear collection for next summer that expertly complemented the launch of his men's cosmetics line.
From Christian Dior, there was a warning to fashion-savvy men: get ready to strut your stuff next summer in a flashy way.
Also showing her stuff was Indonesian-born designer Farah Angsana, who drew on inspiration from her homeland for shirt- sarong combinations.
From masculine vests over chiseled chests to waiters' aprons, from open track suits to a slim dandy on heels, bad boy French designer Gaultier explored his multifaceted vision of men, ranging from macho stud to effeminate pretty boy.
Colors adapted to complexion, with dark-skinned models sporting ensembles in shades of bronze and chestnut while paler faces were paired with whites and pastels. An array of thong sandals and hiking boots finished each look.
Hedi Slimane's collection for Christian Dior -- nearly all in black and silver -- was fit for rock stars, while Tom Ford reinvented the Yves Saint Laurent man as a 1970s playboy in vibrant colors.
The designers' chosen venues reflected their divergent visions for next summer: while Slimane presented his collection late Monday in a cavernous hall at a Paris sports arena, Ford followed up with an intimate showroom display.
At Dior, the look did not change much from last season, with models seeming slightly nervous as they raced down the catwalk at a frenetic pace. Precise cuts shredded tee-shirts and jackets, while black jeans looked well-worn.
Slimane likes to play with fabrics: combining dull and shiny finishes on a coat with eye-catching sleeves, using transparent and opaque material to freshen up a simple tee-shirt, and even adding an iridescent sheen to trousers or a check suit.
Ornamental flourishes were everywhere: from studs and black crystals set into leather to tops made of strands of jet to wallet armbands. Thin, straight Dior ties are a must for next spring.
At Yves Saint Laurent, Ford's sunny creations for seductive ladies' men on the prowl stood in stark contrast to Slimane's underground clubbers.
The YSL man -- sporting suits and shirts in loud colors, a scarf or a wide printed silk tie around his neck and ultra-cool sunglasses -- will be sure to catch the eye of even the most hard-to-please female passers-by.
Orange jacket and a turquoise shirt or vice-versa? Ford gave men both options, along with a fine-knit orange rollneck sweater or brick red trousers.
A red, white and orange-colored jacket seemed right off a Formula One racetrack, while another veered toward biker chic, with gathers in the back or along the sleeves.