Passing away gracefully: Prajudi's last collection

Passing away gracefully: Prajudi's last collection

By Dini S. Djalal

JAKARTA (JP): Fashion shows are often lighthearted occasions, but last week's Trend 1996 show provoked tears and contemplation.

The death of designer Prajudi Admodirdjo, an integral member of the show's organizers, the Indonesian Fashion Designers Council (IPMI), shocked the fashion world to its senses.

That the show was wonderful is a testimony to Prajudi's legacy. Always the tireless perfectionist, he spent his last hours in the hospital dictating his vision for the show to colleagues Biyan and Ghea Sukarya. The results were astonishing. As Prajudi's last collection was unveiled on the runway, the audience grew hushed with both awe and grief. His latest designs, a modern and bold take of traditional tie-dye, not only highlighted the show, but were perhaps the highlight of his illustrious career. The fashion world has lost an irreplaceable talent.

"He has put his soul into IPMI. This is probably how he wants to go," said close friend Biyan.

Fellow designer Carmanita, who shared a passion for traditional textiles with Prajudi, agreed that Prajudi would have wanted the show to go on.

"We can't celebrate too much because we have to pay respect to Prajudi, but we're not sad for him," said Carmanita. However, the loss is clearly felt. "He was the most dedicated and hardworking of all of us. We haven't just lost a friend, but a catalyst," she said.

Prajudi's hard work was evident not only in his collection, but throughout the entire show.

This was IPMI's most accomplished show, both in design content and presentation. The increasing quality of the collections is apparent, and the designers project an unmistakable self- confidence.

This confidence is reflected in their invitation of international press, including editors of Vogue Singapore, International Textile U.K. and High Fashion Tokyo. Hinke Zeick, contributing editor of Vogue Singapore, commented, "Indonesian designers are very good, as good as other Asian designers."

In this tenth anniversary year of the Trend show, IPMI is aiming for a wider audience.

"There is increasing awareness of fashion among the public, and of Indonesian fashion amongst the international market," said IPMI leader Sjamsidar Isa. The yearly trend show is not only the crux of IPMI's activities, but a public service. "The trend show is a responsibility that can't be avoided," said Sjamsidar.

Not for everyone

IPMI's derivative show may echo the catwalks of Milan and New York, but at least they've copied well.

Newlywed Ghea Panggabean's safari up-dates opened the show. The silhouette was long and flowing: sleeveless shifts in brown satins and chiffons printed in tiger stripes. Her knee-length cocktail dress in duchesse satin was seen first at the New York shows, but her chiffon ball gowns are wonderful -- especially in mint, the color of the season.

Sharing Ghea's elegant vision are Chossy Latu, Dipa, Widhi Budimulya, Alex AB, and Valentino Napitupulu, all of whom sent down knee-length dresses and sumptuous satin gowns. Sadly, a working girl's social calender allows few occasions for lavish costumes. Everyone may be trying to be a lady, but these dresses are definitely not for everyone.

Matronly dresses, however, are eminently more wearable than Dandy Burhan's incomprehensible glittered dresses, or Didi Budiardjo's sculpted mermaid gowns. Here the reference is outlandish Parisian designer Thierry Mugler, and the Indonesian versions are just as wild. Would you prefer Burhan's knitted gray pantsuits worn with mile-high (seen at Karl Lagerfeld) wigs or Budiardjo's black corset-like leotards with big bouffant hair? Neither: send out my mother's old 1950s dresses and suits again, please.

And so there they were, in red, black, green, and gold, 1990s versions of Audrey Hepburn's wardrobe. To call Indonesian designers uninspired is to shirk responsibility. Indonesian designers are merely taking the cue of Western designers Miuccia Prada and Calvin Klein, who are mining the history books rather than looking ahead. At this rate, fashion is easy. Prada's influence on Itang Yunasz can be traced down to the silver belt- buckle and wedge shoes.

Some designer take more obscure references, such as Helmut Lang for Ronald Gaghana's techno-warrior costumes. Gaghana's op- art synthetics pushed Indonesian fashion towards new frontiers. The futuristic influence of Gaghana and his mentor Biyan is also becoming evident in other IPMI collections, notably Hutama Adhi's and even Prajudi's. For example, Biyan layered bias-skirts of organza and satin was a popular silhouette at the show, as are his embroidered organza. It's a promising development that Indonesian designers are looking at each other as well as to Europe for inspiration.

A few designers went their own way, the most successful being Tuti Cholid, whose painted silk batiks in loveliest indigo were true works of art. Her fabrics, shaped into sinuous flowing gowns, were so light and airy that the models looked afloat in the sky. Carmanita presented urban warriors in tie-dyed cottons: great stuff, though predictable. Stephanus Hamy committed the ultimate fashion faux-pas and paired sandals with socks, and innovative pleats with animal-printed chiffons. Hamy's male models came out in leopard-print stockings -- here is a man without fear and also questionable taste.

What's good taste anyway, Robby Tumewu asks in his vibrant collection. The model wore broom-like wigs in shocking colors, with skimpy lycra separates to match what there was of it. Hotpants, hipsters, cropped tops, sashayed down in good fun.

"I think I've been spending too much time in Bali, that's my inspiration," said Tumewu. Zooming across continents for a fashion moment may be unnecessary after all.