Passing away gracefully: Prajudi's last collection<\/p>\n
By Dini S. Djalal<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Fashion shows are often lighthearted occasions,
\nbut last week's Trend 1996 show provoked tears and contemplation.<\/p>\n
The death of designer Prajudi Admodirdjo, an integral member
\nof the show's organizers, the Indonesian Fashion Designers
\nCouncil (IPMI), shocked the fashion world to its senses.<\/p>\n
That the show was wonderful is a testimony to Prajudi's
\nlegacy. Always the tireless perfectionist, he spent his last
\nhours in the hospital dictating his vision for the show to
\ncolleagues Biyan and Ghea Sukarya. The results were astonishing.
\nAs Prajudi's last collection was unveiled on the runway, the
\naudience grew hushed with both awe and grief. His latest designs,
\na modern and bold take of traditional tie-dye, not only
\nhighlighted the show, but were perhaps the highlight of his
\nillustrious career. The fashion world has lost an irreplaceable
\ntalent.<\/p>\n
"He has put his soul into IPMI. This is probably how he wants
\nto go," said close friend Biyan.<\/p>\n
Fellow designer Carmanita, who shared a passion for
\ntraditional textiles with Prajudi, agreed that Prajudi would have
\nwanted the show to go on.<\/p>\n
"We can't celebrate too much because we have to pay respect to
\nPrajudi, but we're not sad for him," said Carmanita. However, the
\nloss is clearly felt. "He was the most dedicated and hardworking
\nof all of us. We haven't just lost a friend, but a catalyst," she
\nsaid.<\/p>\n
Prajudi's hard work was evident not only in his collection,
\nbut throughout the entire show.<\/p>\n
This was IPMI's most accomplished show, both in design content
\nand presentation. The increasing quality of the collections is
\napparent, and the designers project an unmistakable self-
\nconfidence.<\/p>\n
This confidence is reflected in their invitation of
\ninternational press, including editors of Vogue Singapore,
\nInternational Textile U.K. and High Fashion Tokyo. Hinke Zeick,
\ncontributing editor of Vogue Singapore, commented, "Indonesian
\ndesigners are very good, as good as other Asian designers."<\/p>\n
In this tenth anniversary year of the Trend show, IPMI is
\naiming for a wider audience.<\/p>\n
"There is increasing awareness of fashion among the public,
\nand of Indonesian fashion amongst the international market," said
\nIPMI leader Sjamsidar Isa. The yearly trend show is not only the
\ncrux of IPMI's activities, but a public service. "The trend show
\nis a responsibility that can't be avoided," said Sjamsidar.<\/p>\n
Not for everyone<\/p>\n
IPMI's derivative show may echo the catwalks of Milan and New
\nYork, but at least they've copied well.<\/p>\n
Newlywed Ghea Panggabean's safari up-dates opened the show.
\nThe silhouette was long and flowing: sleeveless shifts in brown
\nsatins and chiffons printed in tiger stripes. Her knee-length
\ncocktail dress in duchesse satin was seen first at the New York
\nshows, but her chiffon ball gowns are wonderful -- especially in
\nmint, the color of the season.<\/p>\n
Sharing Ghea's elegant vision are Chossy Latu, Dipa, Widhi
\nBudimulya, Alex AB, and Valentino Napitupulu, all of whom sent
\ndown knee-length dresses and sumptuous satin gowns. Sadly, a
\nworking girl's social calender allows few occasions for lavish
\ncostumes. Everyone may be trying to be a lady, but these dresses
\nare definitely not for everyone.<\/p>\n
Matronly dresses, however, are eminently more wearable than
\nDandy Burhan's incomprehensible glittered dresses, or Didi
\nBudiardjo's sculpted mermaid gowns. Here the reference is
\noutlandish Parisian designer Thierry Mugler, and the Indonesian
\nversions are just as wild. Would you prefer Burhan's knitted gray
\npantsuits worn with mile-high (seen at Karl Lagerfeld) wigs or
\nBudiardjo's black corset-like leotards with big bouffant hair?
\nNeither: send out my mother's old 1950s dresses and suits again,
\nplease.<\/p>\n
And so there they were, in red, black, green, and gold, 1990s
\nversions of Audrey Hepburn's wardrobe. To call Indonesian
\ndesigners uninspired is to shirk responsibility. Indonesian
\ndesigners are merely taking the cue of Western designers Miuccia
\nPrada and Calvin Klein, who are mining the history books rather
\nthan looking ahead. At this rate, fashion is easy. Prada's
\ninfluence on Itang Yunasz can be traced down to the silver belt-
\nbuckle and wedge shoes.<\/p>\n
Some designer take more obscure references, such as Helmut
\nLang for Ronald Gaghana's techno-warrior costumes. Gaghana's op-
\nart synthetics pushed Indonesian fashion towards new frontiers.
\nThe futuristic influence of Gaghana and his mentor Biyan is also
\nbecoming evident in other IPMI collections, notably Hutama Adhi's
\nand even Prajudi's. For example, Biyan layered bias-skirts of
\norganza and satin was a popular silhouette at the show, as are
\nhis embroidered organza. It's a promising development that
\nIndonesian designers are looking at each other as well as to
\nEurope for inspiration.<\/p>\n
A few designers went their own way, the most successful being
\nTuti Cholid, whose painted silk batiks in loveliest indigo were
\ntrue works of art. Her fabrics, shaped into sinuous flowing
\ngowns, were so light and airy that the models looked afloat in
\nthe sky. Carmanita presented urban warriors in tie-dyed cottons:
\ngreat stuff, though predictable. Stephanus Hamy committed the
\nultimate fashion faux-pas and paired sandals with socks, and
\ninnovative pleats with animal-printed chiffons. Hamy's male
\nmodels came out in leopard-print stockings -- here is a man
\nwithout fear and also questionable taste.<\/p>\n
What's good taste anyway, Robby Tumewu asks in his vibrant
\ncollection. The model wore broom-like wigs in shocking colors,
\nwith skimpy lycra separates to match what there was of it.
\nHotpants, hipsters, cropped tops, sashayed down in good fun.<\/p>\n
"I think I've been spending too much time in Bali, that's my
\ninspiration," said Tumewu. Zooming across continents for a
\nfashion moment may be unnecessary after all.<\/p>",
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