Nanxiang offers taste of Shanghai

Susanna Tjokro, Contributor, Jakarta, s_tjokro@yahoo

How extraordinary is Nanxiang Steamed Bun restaurant compared to other Chinese restaurants in Jakarta? Well, it has a century's history, as the brand was established in Guangzu more than 100 years ago -- during the 26th year of the Qing dynasty, or 1900 A.D., to be precise. Queen Elizabeth II is among famous figures who have raised their chopsticks there.

This franchise from China opened its door in Jakarta in July 2005, the first non-pork Nanxiang Steamed Bun in the world. Currently, it has branches in four countries: Japan, Korea, Singapore and Indonesia.

Set within a trendy facility, the interior boasts modern furnishings and minimalist, stylish furniture -- absolutely no clutter.

What I didn't do, but would have like to do, was sit by the floor-to-ceiling glass panel overlooking the lake and watch the ducks around sunset -- that would have been really pleasant.

The dining room has a view of the open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs show off their skills.

My appetizer was Four Kinds of Cold Combination -- drunken chicken, spiced beef shank, jellyfish and shredded cucumber -- at Rp 30,000. Of these, I thought the jellyfish was the highlight. The noodle-like jellyfish tentacles did not look particularly appetizing, but the dish was very flavorsome and simply melted in my mouth -- one could be forgiven for thinking that one is eating yummy noodles instead of jellyfish tentacles.

My soup, Kung Tao Pao in Shanghai Steamed Bun Style, Rp 45,000, was unique as well as tasty. The soup, served inside a bun, was a luscious blend of beef stock, chicken stock, dried scallop and minced ginger. One slurps the soup through a straw.

This restaurant's famous steamed buns are a real must-try. Each steamed bun is shaped like a tower, with thin skin and rich filling.

Deep Fried Shrimp Ball Filled with Crab Roe (Rp 12,000 per piece) was among the dim sum that I tasted. This was my favorite dim sum, crunchy on the outside, yet tender on the inside -- succulent from first bite to the last crunch, while the shrimps and crab roe enhanced each other perfectly.

Deep Fried Spring Roll Filled With Hairy Crab and Bean Curd (Rp 12,000 per piece) was equally delicious, with the hairy crab imported all the way from Shanghai.

On the other hand, the restaurant's Steamed Vegetable Bun and Steamed Siomay Stuffed with Glutinous Rice (Rp 6,000 per piece) were not as tasty as the other dishes.

Nanxiang is also renown for its xiao long bao, commonly referred to as steamed dumplings in English. In Chinese, it means "little dumplings from basket". As for xiao long bao, my favorites were Shanghai Steamed Bun with Hairy Crab and Chicken Stuffing (Rp 108,000 for six pieces) as well as Prawn and Chicken Stuffing (Rp 42,000 for six pieces). Served hot, those mouth- watering dumplings are juicy, and the unbroken skin of each xiao long bao holds plenty of flavorsome broth inside.

Xiao long bao are eaten by dipping in black vinegar and fresh, thinly sliced ginger. The entire xiao long bao can be popped into your mouth, but as the dumplings are served very hot, you may end up burning your mouth.

To prevent such an incident while savoring the taste, there are some tips on how to eat xiao long bao . Just take a small bite of the dumpling and slurp the broth out of the opening, or first break its delicate skin with chopsticks and let the soup flow onto a Chinese spoon, and you can sip it then follow with the dumpling. One should eat the dumpling over a Chinese spoon.

My desserts were Mango and Pomelo Sago (Rp 20,000), a combination of pureed mango and sago pearls, and although it sounded odd to me, it turned out to be a refreshing treat.

As for beverages, Chinese tea is free flowing at Rp 8,000 per person. Thumbing through the wine list, you will see various wines from China, such as Shao Sing Chiew (Rp 170,000 a bottle), Mao Tai (Rp 700,000 a bottle) and Wu Liang Ye (Rp 1.2 million a bottle).

Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant Jakarta is actually an integral part of a four-in-one concept in dining and entertainment. Besides Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant, in the Lobby Lagoon Tower of the Jakarta Hilton International, you can savor Chinese cuisine at the Shanghai Classical Restaurant, too. You may also want to drop by Airman Lounge, where daily live music, from jazz to Top 40 to R&B light up the night.

After dinner, drop by Shanghai Night, an inviting, sophisticated lounge where a Shanghainese singer entertains the crowd from Monday to Saturday with nostalgic Chinese songs.

Nanxiang, Shanghai Classical Restaurant, Airman or Shanghai Night -- the choice is yours.

Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant, Jakarta Hilton International, Lobby Lagoon Tower, Jl. Jend. Gatot Subroto, Central Jakarta. Tel: 5707125 Fax: 5707126