Modernity makes an appearance

Modernity makes an appearance

Andrew McCathie, Deutsche Presse-Agentur, Kuala Lumpur

For decades self-styled serious Asian travelers have looked
down on Kuala Lumpur.

But the 1997 Asian financial crisis and its aftermath means
that the Malaysian capital has been throwing off its image as a
sleepy post-colonial town.

For anyone returning to Kuala Lumpur after a break of six
years or more, the city appears almost unrecognizable.

The once relatively sparsely developed area known as the
Golden Triangle, which was home to a cluster of international
hotels, has been transformed by the arrival of big money that has
accompanied Malaysia's fast-paced economic development.

The big international hotels are still there but the Golden
Triangle has now emerged as a fast-paced banking and finance
district dominated by gleaming skyscrapers and a vast collection
of bars, restaurants and a vibrant nightlife.

Overlooking the area are the twin towers of the silver-
colored Petronas building. Topped by Islamic-style minarets, the
Petronas Towers now claims to be the world's tallest building.

A comfortable walk away is Jalan Pinang (Pinang Street) which
has also been transformed by the economic changes that took hold
in Asia about five years ago into long stretch of shopping
plazas.

A 20-minute taxi ride is the city's bustling Chinatown and
Little India. With their network of small streets, shops,
restaurants and markets, both districts offer a glimpse of old
Kuala Lumpur.

At night in Chinatown there is an extensive market (Jalan
Petaling) with an endless choice food, cheap goods and designer
fakes. A fake Rolex watch sells for about US30, depending on your
bargaining skills.

Nearby are the splendid Kuala Lumpur railway and the Sultan
Abdul Samad building on Merdeka Square which point to Malaysia's
British colonial past and are fine examples of Moorish-colonial
architecture.

Despite the changes that have emerged in recent years, Merdeka
Square (Independence Square) remains at Kuala Lumpur's heart.
Along one side is the Royal Selangor Club, where KL's elite still
meet.

Another short walk away and behind Kuala Lumpur's main city's
mosque is the capital's extensive new Islamic Museum, which
showcases a vast array of Moslem art and the history of Islamic
architecture.

But one of Kuala Lumpur's major attractions is its food. With
its three main communities -- Malay, Chinese and Indian -- Kuala
Lumpur is one of the great food capitals of Asia.

Considering the enormous range of the choice of restaurants
and eating places, drawing up a list of recommendations would
seem to be beyond even the most enthusiastic of food reviewers.

Modern Kuala Lumpur seems also to be experimenting with fusion
food. It is probably one of the few cities in the world offering
Japanese pizzas.

The rapid development of Kuala Lumpur's shopping culture has
meant that the city's once hawker food culture, (street food
stalls) have been switching into the shopping malls.

Here in vast open spaces bustling with people it is possible
to have Chinese dim sum as a starter, before kicking on to a
splendid Indian curry for main course and then finish off with a
Malay regional desert.