Modeling attracts local youth
Lured by heady notions of money, glamor and adoring public attention, growing numbers of young Indonesians are taking their first bold steps on the catwalk.
They find an industry vastly changed from the days when models worked long hours for paltry pay. Modeling has gained respectability as a host of modeling agencies and schools have opened up in Jakarta and other major cities. The Jakarta Post's team of reporters, Prapti Widinugraheni, I. Christianto, Rita A. Widiadana, Wirasti Wiryono, Dwi Atmanta, Ida Indawati Khouw and photographer Mulkan Salmona, focuses on the burgeoning local modeling world. Related articles are on Pages 8, 9 and 13.
JAKARTA (JP): A successful modeling career is the stuff that dreams are made of for many young Indonesians.
Blinded by seductive images of supermodels and their charmed lives, some prospective models fail to see the heavy sacrifices entailed in making it to the top.
These begin with the stringent physical requirements, especially for women. Favored models are usually in their teens or early 20s, with few bookings for those showing signs of aging. They must be tall but rail-thin, adhering to a disciplined diet and exercise regimen to remain svelte.
The work is often drudgery. A model may be required to swathe herself in bulky dresses under baking studio lights, before slipping into skimpy swimsuits for outside shots on her next assignment.
Their lives can be a rollercoaster of intense pressure, with a round of go-sees at clients and photographers in the hope of landing a job.
Fame and wealth comes to the elite few who make it to the top. Although once regarded as little more than clothes horses and cruelly dismissed by one designer as "silly cows", supermodels today have gained the status of international celebrities.
The material rewards can be enormous. Cindy Crawford earns US$6.5 million annually from advertisements and some runway work. Linda Evangelista, in a statement she came to regret, once boasted that she did not get up early for a booking unless there was $10,000 waiting for her.
The Indonesian modeling world is also undergoing rapid changes.
Widarti Gunawan, chief editor of Femina women's magazine, attributed these developments to the emergence of modeling as a business with high stakes to be had.
"The modeling world is now a lucrative business. It involves not only models but also designers, modeling agencies, stylists, photographers, news media. It is really a complicated business. In the past, the modeling profession was not so appealing."
Model fees are increasing. A fledgling model may earn from Rp 500,000 ($250) to Rp 1 million ($450) for a 90-minute show, an insider says. Top models take home from Rp 5 million (about $2,500) to Rp 10 million ($4,500).
Modeling can also be the stepping stone to more lucrative work in commercials and movies. Radityo Djadjoeri of Times Communications said a model can receive from Rp 2.5 million to Rp 60 million fee for a commercial.
He added that models are usually tight-lipped when it comes to discussing fees with their colleagues. "Pay is a sensitive topic among models. The business of how much they are paid has a lot to do with keeping their self-esteem in the face of so much competition."
The material gains are drawing young Indonesian men and women to modeling schools.
"A large number of young women flock to modeling schools and model contests to try their luck," said Yetty Iman Abdullah from OQ modeling school.
The desire to join the ranks of the beautiful people is part of an international trend, according to Brigita Maria, a representative of the New York-based Elite Model agency.
She noted annual increases in the number of participants in the Elite Model Look, a contest to seek international-standard models. Last year, about 400 young women participated in the search.
"We want to bring Indonesian models to the international spotlight," Brigita said recently.
Tracy Trinita, the 15-year-old winner of the l995 Elite Model Look, was awarded a $50,000 contract by Elite and is now working in New York and other fashion centers. Avi Basuki, Ratih Sanggarwati and Kintan Umari also worked with international agencies.
Development
Indonesia is a relative newcomer to the modeling scene. Michael Gross, author of Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women, traced the development of the contemporary industry to the use of models by painters such as Rembrandt, Goya and Sargent.
Catwalks made their debut in Chicago in 1914, with commercial modeling becoming established in the 1920s. Ford Models, the most famous of modeling agencies, was set up in the 1940s by Eileen and Jerry Ford.
Fashion modeling bloomed in Indonesia in the l960s when local fashion designers like Peter Sie and Non Kawilarang sought pretty young girls to parade their clothes.
These models included Rima Melati (daughter of Non Kawilarang), Titi Qadarsih, Rae Sita, the late Baby Huwae and Gaby Mamboo. Modeling was considered a side job and many of these women also had acting or singing careers.
Widarti said the development of the Indonesian modeling business is a consequence of the country's dynamic economic growth.
The establishment of many foreign clothing boutiques like Donna Karan, Max Mara, Emporio Armani and Dolce Gabbana, which show their new collections each season, has tied many models to hectic catwalk schedules.
Widarti also cited the role of print and television media in opening up the once exclusive modeling world to the public.
"People are becoming familiar with many models and their life styles as their faces frequently appear in glossy magazines, newspapers, and on television. People know supermodels such as Claudia Schiffer and local models."
Ratih Sanggarwati, formerly one of Indonesia's leading models, believes that modeling is finally being recognized as a profession. She acknowledged that local models need to eradicate misperceptions that they are also willing to work as escorts.
"Models should eliminate these negative stereotypes by working more professionally," said Ratih, who now runs the Expose modeling agency.
Chitra Triadi, head of Image Modeling Agency, believes that many Indonesian models are spoiled and lack professionalism.
Chitra, a former model herself, said modeling is as competitive and demanding as any other profession. Requisites to becoming a successful model include professionalism and a cooperative attitude on the job, she added.
Ratih warns that models must realize that their career is fleeting.
"If you decide to pursue a modeling career, you must work hard to achieve the top rank. Modeling is such a short-lived profession. Once you are old, you must get off the stage." (team)