Modeling attracts local youth<\/p>\n
Lured by heady notions of money, glamor and adoring public
\nattention, growing numbers of young Indonesians are taking their
\nfirst bold steps on the catwalk.<\/p>\n
They find an industry vastly changed from the days when models
\nworked long hours for paltry pay. Modeling has gained
\nrespectability as a host of modeling agencies and schools have
\nopened up in Jakarta and other major cities. The Jakarta Post's
\nteam of reporters, Prapti Widinugraheni, I. Christianto, Rita A.
\nWidiadana, Wirasti Wiryono, Dwi Atmanta, Ida Indawati Khouw and
\nphotographer Mulkan Salmona, focuses on the burgeoning local
\nmodeling world. Related articles are on Pages 8, 9 and
\n13.<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): A successful modeling career is the stuff that
\ndreams are made of for many young Indonesians.<\/p>\n
Blinded by seductive images of supermodels and their charmed
\nlives, some prospective models fail to see the heavy sacrifices
\nentailed in making it to the top.<\/p>\n
These begin with the stringent physical requirements,
\nespecially for women. Favored models are usually in their teens
\nor early 20s, with few bookings for those showing signs of aging.
\nThey must be tall but rail-thin, adhering to a disciplined diet
\nand exercise regimen to remain svelte.<\/p>\n
The work is often drudgery. A model may be required to swathe
\nherself in bulky dresses under baking studio lights, before
\nslipping into skimpy swimsuits for outside shots on her next
\nassignment.<\/p>\n
Their lives can be a rollercoaster of intense pressure, with a
\nround of go-sees at clients and photographers in the hope of
\nlanding a job.<\/p>\n
Fame and wealth comes to the elite few who make it to the top.
\nAlthough once regarded as little more than clothes horses and
\ncruelly dismissed by one designer as \"silly cows\", supermodels
\ntoday have gained the status of international celebrities.<\/p>\n
The material rewards can be enormous. Cindy Crawford earns
\nUS$6.5 million annually from advertisements and some runway work.
\nLinda Evangelista, in a statement she came to regret, once
\nboasted that she did not get up early for a booking unless there
\nwas $10,000 waiting for her.<\/p>\n
The Indonesian modeling world is also undergoing rapid
\nchanges.<\/p>\n
Widarti Gunawan, chief editor of Femina women's magazine,
\nattributed these developments to the emergence of modeling as a
\nbusiness with high stakes to be had.<\/p>\n
\"The modeling world is now a lucrative business. It involves
\nnot only models but also designers, modeling agencies, stylists,
\nphotographers, news media. It is really a complicated business.
\nIn the past, the modeling profession was not so appealing.\"<\/p>\n
Model fees are increasing. A fledgling model may earn from Rp
\n500,000 ($250) to Rp 1 million ($450) for a 90-minute show, an
\ninsider says. Top models take home from Rp 5 million (about
\n$2,500) to Rp 10 million ($4,500).<\/p>\n
Modeling can also be the stepping stone to more lucrative work
\nin commercials and movies. Radityo Djadjoeri of Times
\nCommunications said a model can receive from Rp 2.5 million to Rp
\n60 million fee for a commercial.<\/p>\n
He added that models are usually tight-lipped when it comes to
\ndiscussing fees with their colleagues. \"Pay is a sensitive topic
\namong models. The business of how much they are paid has a lot to
\ndo with keeping their self-esteem in the face of so much
\ncompetition.\"<\/p>\n
The material gains are drawing young Indonesian men and women
\nto modeling schools.<\/p>\n
\"A large number of young women flock to modeling schools and
\nmodel contests to try their luck,\" said Yetty Iman Abdullah from
\nOQ modeling school.<\/p>\n
The desire to join the ranks of the beautiful people is part
\nof an international trend, according to Brigita Maria, a
\nrepresentative of the New York-based Elite Model agency.<\/p>\n
She noted annual increases in the number of participants in
\nthe Elite Model Look, a contest to seek international-standard
\nmodels. Last year, about 400 young women participated in the
\nsearch.<\/p>\n
\"We want to bring Indonesian models to the international
\nspotlight,\" Brigita said recently.<\/p>\n
Tracy Trinita, the 15-year-old winner of the l995 Elite Model
\nLook, was awarded a $50,000 contract by Elite and is now working
\nin New York and other fashion centers. Avi Basuki, Ratih
\nSanggarwati and Kintan Umari also worked with international
\nagencies.<\/p>\n
Development<\/p>\n
Indonesia is a relative newcomer to the modeling scene.
\nMichael Gross, author of Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful
\nWomen, traced the development of the contemporary industry to the
\nuse of models by painters such as Rembrandt, Goya and Sargent.<\/p>\n
Catwalks made their debut in Chicago in 1914, with commercial
\nmodeling becoming established in the 1920s. Ford Models, the most
\nfamous of modeling agencies, was set up in the 1940s by Eileen
\nand Jerry Ford.<\/p>\n
Fashion modeling bloomed in Indonesia in the l960s when local
\nfashion designers like Peter Sie and Non Kawilarang sought pretty
\nyoung girls to parade their clothes.<\/p>\n
These models included Rima Melati (daughter of Non
\nKawilarang), Titi Qadarsih, Rae Sita, the late Baby Huwae and
\nGaby Mamboo. Modeling was considered a side job and many of these
\nwomen also had acting or singing careers.<\/p>\n
Widarti said the development of the Indonesian modeling
\nbusiness is a consequence of the country's dynamic economic
\ngrowth.<\/p>\n
The establishment of many foreign clothing boutiques like
\nDonna Karan, Max Mara, Emporio Armani and Dolce Gabbana, which
\nshow their new collections each season, has tied many models to
\nhectic catwalk schedules.<\/p>\n
Widarti also cited the role of print and television media in
\nopening up the once exclusive modeling world to the public.<\/p>\n
\"People are becoming familiar with many models and their life
\nstyles as their faces frequently appear in glossy magazines,
\nnewspapers, and on television. People know supermodels such as
\nClaudia Schiffer and local models.\"<\/p>\n
Ratih Sanggarwati, formerly one of Indonesia's leading models,
\nbelieves that modeling is finally being recognized as a
\nprofession. She acknowledged that local models need to eradicate
\nmisperceptions that they are also willing to work as escorts.<\/p>\n
\"Models should eliminate these negative stereotypes by working
\nmore professionally,\" said Ratih, who now runs the Expose
\nmodeling agency.<\/p>\n
Chitra Triadi, head of Image Modeling Agency, believes that
\nmany Indonesian models are spoiled and lack professionalism.<\/p>\n
Chitra, a former model herself, said modeling is as
\ncompetitive and demanding as any other profession. Requisites to
\nbecoming a successful model include professionalism and a
\ncooperative attitude on the job, she added.<\/p>\n
Ratih warns that models must realize that their career is
\nfleeting.<\/p>\n
\"If you decide to pursue a modeling career, you must work hard
\nto achieve the top rank. Modeling is such a short-lived
\nprofession. Once you are old, you must get off the stage.\" (team)<\/p>",
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