Manado's models are pretty, zealous, but not the right size
By Yusuf Susilo Hartono
MANADO, North Sulawesi (JP): It was twilight in late April at Manado's Sunset Cafe when Nike Lomban, 17, a fashion model now gaining popularity, posed before the camera of a photographer from NiKita tabloid.
The photo shoot drew the attention of some guests, who admired the 165-centimeter-tall Nike for her great beauty.
Both Nike and the photographer were equally fervent. It is a new trend here for models to grace the cover of a tabloid.
Since its maiden issue last March, this local family magazine, using the area's language, has always featured a fashion model on its cover. It is a golden opportunity for young models in North Sulawesi, where such chances were previously rare.
The fair-skinned pretty model has actually a long name: Joanna Eunike Helena Lomban. In her eleventh year at a Manado public senior high school, Nike has won a number of prizes for modeling at the provincial level. Only last month, for example, she came in second at the 2001 East Indonesia Modeling Contest.
It is Chok Tellew, one of Manado's top designers, that has paved the way for Nike to tap her natural talent on the catwalk. Thanks to Chok, who spent six years in dress designing in Jakarta, Nike has excelled to a level where she is a force to be reckoned with, though only at the provincial level.
"I'm planning to go to Jakarta after leaving senior high," she said after the photo shoot at Sunset, which overlooks the Sulawesi sea. After she was told about the fierce competition in the modeling world in Jakarta, Nike, was briefly silent and seemed doubtful of her plans.
Nike is only one of dozens of models in North Sulawesi, the land of swaying palm trees. Maya Damayanti, Maya Waloni, Lia Lianto, Mellina Mandagi, Chintya Kalangit, Cindy Wowor, Riany Giroth and Mikha Paruntu are but a few examples.
Generally, these models, successful only at the local level, nurture a deep wish to be popular in Jakarta.
Unfortunately, no models from Manado have been very successful in the capital. A few have joined fashion contests organized by Femina, a woman's magazine, or Aneka, a magazine for teenagers, but there has been no other work afterwards.
Hurdles
Why have only a few of Manado's fashion models succeeded on the catwalk in Jakarta or at national events? Maya Damayanti, 19, a student at Sam Ratulangi University who won the top prize at the 2001 East Indonesia Modeling Contest, has determined the reasons to be physical, mental and, most importantly, economical. She said a model needs millions of rupiah to be able to get to Jakarta.
If she has to stay in the capital, the cost of living is very high. "If a job is readily available, that's okay. But if you have to look around for a job for a long time, it will be really difficult," said Maya, whose parents are from Central Java.
A local fashion observer, Sam D. Pantouw, who studied at OQ Modeling in Jakarta in 1989, said separately that Maya was right. He added that another hurdle was the fact that even though some models had work in an office, most were generally students at the secondary or tertiary level. "Understandably, in Manado you cannot live on modeling," said Sam.
He predicted, though, that a model desperately deciding to compete in Jakarta actually stood a good chance at succeeding, especially in non-catwalk jobs, such as photo, beauty, advertising or video clip models.
These jobs are suitable for them as they have a beautiful face with fair skin and are not too tall.
However, to compete on the catwalk, a model must be at least 170 cm tall. Unfortunately, models from Manado are on the average only about 160 cm tall. Besides, they have large bones. "This genetic factor, in my opinion, is the most serious handicap for those wishing to be catwalk models," said Sam, with whom Chok Tellew concurs.
Chok added that models from Manado generally have large bones and big hips, a reason why they do not possess the ideal and proportional appearance that national or international models do. Also, they usually do not meet the standard of an ideal model's figure: measuring 90 cm, 90 cm and 65 cm respectively around the hips, bust and waist, taller than 170 cm and having long shapely legs.
Apart from the genetic factor, Sam noted, models from Manado easily gain weight because locals usually eat a lot and their daily diet is not conducive to keeping their bodies slim, especially if they live in a cool place and do not exercise enough.
Map
Regardless of the obstacles, many young women in the province dream of being a top model. This may reflect the Manadoese penchant for being stylish. There is a popular saying here that reflects that ideal: "It is better to eat nothing than not be stylish."
Unfortunately, this desire is yet to be realized for the fashion industry. As the general manager of NiKita tabloid, Timmy Katoppo, puts it, there has been hardly any progress in the modeling world in North Sulawesi. "In the present era of regional autonomy, it is a common challenge for all of us, the modeling world, the mass media, the businessmen and the local administration to provide steam to the fashion industry in North Sulawesi," said Timmy, who also teaches at the fine arts department of the state-owned teacher training institute in Manado.
The modeling world in North Sulawesi is causing concern. Most models are relying only on their natural talents. Manado has yet to have a fashion school or personal development school that also has a modeling course, such as John Robert Powers Institute in Jakarta or Surabaya. Local designers have yet to establish their own association, or join the associations that are found in Jakarta, such as the Indonesian Designers Association (APPMI) and Indonesian Designer Council (IPMI).
Those involved in the modeling sector here do not share a network with people in other regions although there are a few local modeling agencies, such as those owned by Chock Tellew and Sam D. Pantouw.
The local mass media, most often dailies and tabloids, do not usually allocate a special space for modeling affairs, a column specially run by a model and beauty editor. Manado, unfortunately, has yet to have its own women's magazines, where models can show their action.
NiKita, which also carries stories on fashion and beauty, is apt as it gives an opportunity for models to appear on its cover and its centerfolds. Unlike state-owned TVRI in Jakarta, TVRI in Manado does not have a special fashion program.
Admittedly, fashion shows are rarely organized in North Sulawesi. Manado, unlike Jakarta, has never hosted an end-of-year fashion show as a guide for fashion trends in the new year. Local designers have not taken the initiative to organize a yearly fashion show, arguing that such an event needs a lot of money and that the market does not have the potential for the fashion business. Surprisingly, a visit to a department store at Market 45 shows quite the opposite as it is always crowded with customers.
So local models rely on the launching of new products or join certain events that advertise for them. Their potential has yet to be tapped for modeling in the print/electronic media or in music video clips. The local print media publishes advertisements only in writing, without the use of models. Only beauty parlors advertising wedding gowns use models. Besides, Manado does not yet have any advertising bureaus.
However, there is good enthusiasm for modeling here. Modeling contests are often crowded with participants although registration is expensive. One contest is the Mr. and Miss North Sulawesi contest.
Both Timmy and Sam have called on everybody in the fashion world in North Sulawesi to benefit from the regional autonomy momentum to revive the local fashion industry. The first thing to do is to put the infrastructure in order. Cooperation must then be established with Jakarta, and, if necessary, with foreign countries. In the absence of a network, the modeling world in North Sulawesi will only be shallow-minded.
Of all the models in Manado, only Maya Damayanti is getting ready to try her luck in Jakarta.
If Maya is successful and can make her existence known on the catwalk in the capital, she will be a locomotive giving steam to the modeling world in North Sulawesi.