Manado's models are pretty, zealous, but not the right size

Manado's models are pretty, zealous, but not the right size

By Yusuf Susilo Hartono

MANADO, North Sulawesi (JP): It was twilight in late April at
Manado's Sunset Cafe when Nike Lomban, 17, a fashion model now
gaining popularity, posed before the camera of a photographer
from NiKita tabloid.

The photo shoot drew the attention of some guests, who admired
the 165-centimeter-tall Nike for her great beauty.

Both Nike and the photographer were equally fervent. It is a
new trend here for models to grace the cover of a tabloid.

Since its maiden issue last March, this local family magazine,
using the area's language, has always featured a fashion model on
its cover. It is a golden opportunity for young models in North
Sulawesi, where such chances were previously rare.

The fair-skinned pretty model has actually a long name: Joanna
Eunike Helena Lomban. In her eleventh year at a Manado public
senior high school, Nike has won a number of prizes for modeling
at the provincial level. Only last month, for example, she came
in second at the 2001 East Indonesia Modeling Contest.

It is Chok Tellew, one of Manado's top designers, that has
paved the way for Nike to tap her natural talent on the catwalk.
Thanks to Chok, who spent six years in dress designing in
Jakarta, Nike has excelled to a level where she is a force to be
reckoned with, though only at the provincial level.

"I'm planning to go to Jakarta after leaving senior high," she
said after the photo shoot at Sunset, which overlooks the
Sulawesi sea. After she was told about the fierce competition in
the modeling world in Jakarta, Nike, was briefly silent and
seemed doubtful of her plans.

Nike is only one of dozens of models in North Sulawesi, the
land of swaying palm trees. Maya Damayanti, Maya Waloni, Lia
Lianto, Mellina Mandagi, Chintya Kalangit, Cindy Wowor, Riany
Giroth and Mikha Paruntu are but a few examples.

Generally, these models, successful only at the local level,
nurture a deep wish to be popular in Jakarta.

Unfortunately, no models from Manado have been very successful
in the capital. A few have joined fashion contests organized by
Femina, a woman's magazine, or Aneka, a magazine for teenagers,
but there has been no other work afterwards.

Hurdles

Why have only a few of Manado's fashion models succeeded on
the catwalk in Jakarta or at national events? Maya Damayanti, 19,
a student at Sam Ratulangi University who won the top prize at
the 2001 East Indonesia Modeling Contest, has determined the
reasons to be physical, mental and, most importantly, economical.
She said a model needs millions of rupiah to be able to get to
Jakarta.

If she has to stay in the capital, the cost of living is very
high. "If a job is readily available, that's okay. But if you
have to look around for a job for a long time, it will be really
difficult," said Maya, whose parents are from Central Java.

A local fashion observer, Sam D. Pantouw, who studied at OQ
Modeling in Jakarta in 1989, said separately that Maya was right.
He added that another hurdle was the fact that even though some
models had work in an office, most were generally students at the
secondary or tertiary level. "Understandably, in Manado you
cannot live on modeling," said Sam.

He predicted, though, that a model desperately deciding to
compete in Jakarta actually stood a good chance at succeeding,
especially in non-catwalk jobs, such as photo, beauty,
advertising or video clip models.

These jobs are suitable for them as they have a beautiful face
with fair skin and are not too tall.

However, to compete on the catwalk, a model must be at least
170 cm tall. Unfortunately, models from Manado are on the average
only about 160 cm tall. Besides, they have large bones. "This
genetic factor, in my opinion, is the most serious handicap for
those wishing to be catwalk models," said Sam, with whom Chok
Tellew concurs.

Chok added that models from Manado generally have large bones
and big hips, a reason why they do not possess the ideal and
proportional appearance that national or international models do.
Also, they usually do not meet the standard of an ideal model's
figure: measuring 90 cm, 90 cm and 65 cm respectively around the
hips, bust and waist, taller than 170 cm and having long shapely
legs.

Apart from the genetic factor, Sam noted, models from Manado
easily gain weight because locals usually eat a lot and their
daily diet is not conducive to keeping their bodies slim,
especially if they live in a cool place and do not exercise
enough.

Map

Regardless of the obstacles, many young women in the province
dream of being a top model. This may reflect the Manadoese
penchant for being stylish. There is a popular saying here that
reflects that ideal: "It is better to eat nothing than not be
stylish."

Unfortunately, this desire is yet to be realized for the
fashion industry. As the general manager of NiKita tabloid, Timmy
Katoppo, puts it, there has been hardly any progress in the
modeling world in North Sulawesi. "In the present era of regional
autonomy, it is a common challenge for all of us, the modeling
world, the mass media, the businessmen and the local
administration to provide steam to the fashion industry in North
Sulawesi," said Timmy, who also teaches at the fine arts
department of the state-owned teacher training institute in
Manado.

The modeling world in North Sulawesi is causing concern. Most
models are relying only on their natural talents. Manado has yet
to have a fashion school or personal development school that also
has a modeling course, such as John Robert Powers Institute in
Jakarta or Surabaya. Local designers have yet to establish their
own association, or join the associations that are found in
Jakarta, such as the Indonesian Designers Association (APPMI) and
Indonesian Designer Council (IPMI).

Those involved in the modeling sector here do not share a
network with people in other regions although there are a few
local modeling agencies, such as those owned by Chock Tellew and
Sam D. Pantouw.

The local mass media, most often dailies and tabloids, do not
usually allocate a special space for modeling affairs, a column
specially run by a model and beauty editor. Manado,
unfortunately, has yet to have its own women's magazines, where
models can show their action.

NiKita, which also carries stories on fashion and beauty, is
apt as it gives an opportunity for models to appear on its cover
and its centerfolds. Unlike state-owned TVRI in Jakarta, TVRI in
Manado does not have a special fashion program.

Admittedly, fashion shows are rarely organized in North
Sulawesi. Manado, unlike Jakarta, has never hosted an end-of-year
fashion show as a guide for fashion trends in the new year. Local
designers have not taken the initiative to organize a yearly
fashion show, arguing that such an event needs a lot of money and
that the market does not have the potential for the fashion
business. Surprisingly, a visit to a department store at Market
45 shows quite the opposite as it is always crowded with
customers.

So local models rely on the launching of new products or join
certain events that advertise for them. Their potential has yet
to be tapped for modeling in the print/electronic media or in
music video clips. The local print media publishes advertisements
only in writing, without the use of models. Only beauty parlors
advertising wedding gowns use models. Besides, Manado does not
yet have any advertising bureaus.

However, there is good enthusiasm for modeling here. Modeling
contests are often crowded with participants although
registration is expensive. One contest is the Mr. and Miss North
Sulawesi contest.

Both Timmy and Sam have called on everybody in the fashion
world in North Sulawesi to benefit from the regional autonomy
momentum to revive the local fashion industry. The first thing to
do is to put the infrastructure in order. Cooperation must then
be established with Jakarta, and, if necessary, with foreign
countries. In the absence of a network, the modeling world in
North Sulawesi will only be shallow-minded.

Of all the models in Manado, only Maya Damayanti is getting
ready to try her luck in Jakarta.

If Maya is successful and can make her existence known on the
catwalk in the capital, she will be a locomotive giving steam to
the modeling world in North Sulawesi.