Lombok's Gili islands make the perfect getaway

Lombok's Gili islands make the perfect getaway

Martin Jenkins, Contributor, Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara

It is said that if you want to know what Bali was like 20 years
ago, then you should go to Lombok.

Much more laid back than its larger sister 45 km to the west,
Lombok is a great antidote to the commercial excesses of Bali,
where on some beaches at least, there now seem to be more hawkers
than tourists and a moment's peace is as rare as a reasonably
priced can of soda.

Many travelers visiting Lombok for the first time head for the
wonderful Gili islands -- three coral ringed islands off the
northwest coast of Lombok. Here there are dazzling white sand
beaches that outdo Bali, with crystal clear aquamarine waters to
boot.

The furthest of the islands from the mainland, Gili Trawangan,
is also the largest of the three. Even so, it still takes less
than three hours to walk around the whole island.

In a wise move, the authorities have taken the decision to ban
cars and motorcycles from the islands, thus making for a much
more relaxing stay. Instead there are cidomo -- a sort of horse
and carriage. Although quite inexpensive to get around in, make
sure you bargain before you accept the ride else you may be
overcharged. Bicycles are also available for rent at around Rp
30,000 per day, but the going can get tough as the tracks around
the island are very sandy in parts.

While Gili Trawangan has picked up the reputation of being
something of a party island, you will be sorely disappointed if
you come here expecting Goa style beach raves. In fact, despite a
few low-key "parties" which are occasionally held by divers
congregating at the Blue Marlin dive center, Gili Trawangan is so
laid back it is virtually horizontal. And long may it remain that
way.

There are plenty of inexpensive accommodations and eateries on
Gili Trawangan, especially in the main strip toward the south of
the island. Here you can find cozy bars and romantic candlelit
restaurants, some of which have slightly raised dining areas
where you can eat your meal at leisure as you stretch out your
legs and rest on soft cushions.

Besides the usual Western fare, gado gado (vegetables in
peanut sauce) and nasi goreng (fried rice) are also on the menu.
For those unable to shut themselves off from the outside world,
access to the World Wide Web is possible at the ubiquitous
Internet cafes that have now set up shop.

Most of the accommodations on the island are of the simple
bamboo hut variety, but better quality places to stay are
springing up all the time, complete with hot water, air
conditioning and satellite TV. But be warned: if you have
sensitive skin and do not relish the prospect of seawater showers
(fresh water is a rare commodity here and has to be brought in
from mainland Lombok), your only option may be to stay at the
island's upmarket resort hotel, Hotel Vila Ombak.

If it is solitude you are looking for, then head to the north
of the island, where you are unlikely to be troubled by anyone.
Days can pass by very quickly here as you relax in a hammock
strung between two palm trees swaying in the gentle sea breeze.

The three Gili islands are still excellent for snorkeling
despite the devastation wreaked by the El Nino weather phenomenon
in 1998. Some 90 percent of the hard corals around the islands
down to 20 meters suffered badly at the time from bleaching and
are still recovering.

While you can snorkel directly from the beach, a good deal is
to join the daily snorkeling tour at the very reasonable rate of
Rp 35,000 per person. As the boat has a glass bottom, those
unable to snorkel, such as young kids, can also have the
opportunity to see a wide array of beautiful multicolored
tropical fish and, if lucky, even the odd turtle. A tip here:
bring your own snorkeling gear as the quality of the stuff
available for hire leaves much to be desired.

When you need a break from the snorkeling, the sugary white
beaches are a perfect place for relaxation and sunbathing. The
few hawkers that ply their trade here are much less aggressive
than in Bali, and when they realize you don't want what they are
selling they quickly get the message. If the blazing tropical sun
becomes too much to bear, shelter can be found under the palm
trees that conveniently line the beaches.

If the weather is good -- which it usually is -- beautiful red
sunsets can be seen, with the sun setting in the west over Mount
Agung, Bali. Either head for Gili Trawangan's northern coast else
climb the island's 100-meter-high hill (going up here is the only
time you are likely to venture into the island's interior during
your stay).

As for Gili Air and Gili Meno, they are even quieter than Gili
Trawangan. Accommodations and restaurants are basic, but then
that's part of the charm. If you need more facilities, it's more
convenient to stay on Gili Trawangan and make day trips to these
two islands.