Lolita Lempicka: An Alice in Wonderland fantasy -- at a price

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

First Miu Miu, and now Lolita Lempicka: The recent opening of the two boutiques here shows that upper-end members of the fashionista have managed to deftly sidestep the pinch of the crisis.

Miu Miu, Prada's second line, opened its first store in the country on Plaza Senayan's brand-name crowded first floor -- next to Etienne Aigner, facing its older sister's store and a few meters' away from Christian Dior -- about a month ago.

Lolita Lempicka, the Paris-based couture label known for its exquisite clothing design, launched its boutique in Plaza Indonesia, Central Jakarta, last week. Occupying 80 square meters on the second floor, the boutique is the first of several set to be opened in major Southeast Asian cities, including Singapore, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.

Instead of looking at the opening as reconfirming this country as the world's most unlikely place to engage in grandiose retail therapy, we can take a more positive view that it shows foreign investors are returning.

Hopefully, it will also wean Indonesians off from heading abroad to shop in Singapore, and have them hopping over to the plaza nearby.

Ms. Lolita Lempicka herself attended the launching party at posh Rumah Adityawarman, South Jakarta, along with husband Joseph-Marie Lempicka-Pividal, who runs the label's business matters.

"I am very impressed with Indonesia's fashion scene. The Lolita Lempicka name is already well-known with well-traveled Indonesians. Fashion enthusiasts in Indonesia are among the most stylish in Asia. It is clear that they have only one demand, and that is perfection in their style," said Lempicka.

According to George Huels, the managing director of Singapore- base ClubConcept, the license holder for Asia Pacific, the company has much confidence in Indonesia and its purchasing power.

"In the past, Indonesia had always played second fiddle after Hong Kong or Singapore. The reality is that the market is good. We see the opportunity of growing, we have assessed the risk, we are very confident," he said, adding that Singapore's boutique would open in two months' time.

Lolita Lempicka, the last remaining independent couture house in France, has shied away from hitching up with a big business backer in order "to eliminate the pressure on creativity".

The label was set up in 1984, as 19-year-old Lolita left fashion school to pursue her dream to be a designer, establishing her first boutique in Paris along with her husband.

Lolita Lempicka Couture was followed by Lolita-Bis for the youth market, aged 15 to 25 years old, and Les Mariies de Lolita wedding dress collection.

The brand became firmly established in Japan, where there are now 120 boutiques, as well as countries of eastern Europe and the Middle East.

In 1997, Lempicka launched her first scent for women, which was said to be the most successful perfume launch in a decade. Distributed in more than 7,000 outlets in 80 countries worldwide, it ranks among the top four best-selling perfumes in France, accounting for 3 percent of the total female fragrance sales in the country.

The men's scent followed in 2002, earning a good reception from media and customers.

The Lempickas have started to strengthen the family couture empire, with eldest daughter Elisa coming on board as a designer. Elisa's younger twin sisters will join next year for the youth line.

The signature style of Lolita brims with femininity and sensuality.

"It's all about femininity of women," confirmed Lempicka, who presented 45 of her Spring/Summer 2004 collection here.

The catwalk was filled with delicate, fluid skirts and dresses, in both subtle and fresh hues, and floral motifs as well as delicate intricate embroidery.

Halter necks were all over the place, along with bustiers, lingerie-light little dresses and two-piece suits.

The enchanting fairy tale is reflected in the constant use of ivy, fruits, flowers, butterflies, ladybugs, etc, whether as print motifs or embroidery, on soft materials such as linen, satin, cotton or silk.

Neutral and pastel shades are contrasted with bright, strong, fruity shades in red, mauves, turquoise and a spectrum of pinks -- from sugary to shocking.

The delicate and fluid fabrics emphasize the clean and masterly cut, giving a sense of comfort.

The intricate lace, embroidery and floral prints were reminiscent of Balinese embroidery and motif. Lempicka acknowledged that Asia, including Bali, was a special inspiration for her.

"Bali has always been my dream destination. When I finally got there, I was inspired by the dancers, the women. It is applied in the silhouette of my designs, which are very sensual."

She added that she did not need to modify her designs to make them more acceptable for the Asian market, because Asians were already very feminine and sensual.

"I know Indonesia is a Muslim country, but I believe the people are moderate. I respect the culture here."

Lempicka's collection, as Huels perfectly put it, is what every woman dreams of, to be feminine and girlish, "like Alice in Wonderland..."

Of course, as surreal as Alice's journey was, that feminine fantasy starts at a hefty Rp 1.5 million and goes up from there.

Adult videos are here for a reason, you know.