Lolita Lempicka: An Alice in Wonderland fantasy -- at a price
Lolita Lempicka: An Alice in Wonderland fantasy -- at a price
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
First Miu Miu, and now Lolita Lempicka: The recent opening of the
two boutiques here shows that upper-end members of the
fashionista have managed to deftly sidestep the pinch of the
crisis.
Miu Miu, Prada's second line, opened its first store in the
country on Plaza Senayan's brand-name crowded first floor -- next
to Etienne Aigner, facing its older sister's store and a few
meters' away from Christian Dior -- about a month ago.
Lolita Lempicka, the Paris-based couture label known for its
exquisite clothing design, launched its boutique in Plaza
Indonesia, Central Jakarta, last week. Occupying 80 square meters
on the second floor, the boutique is the first of several set to
be opened in major Southeast Asian cities, including Singapore,
Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur.
Instead of looking at the opening as reconfirming this country
as the world's most unlikely place to engage in grandiose retail
therapy, we can take a more positive view that it shows foreign
investors are returning.
Hopefully, it will also wean Indonesians off from heading
abroad to shop in Singapore, and have them hopping over to the
plaza nearby.
Ms. Lolita Lempicka herself attended the launching party at
posh Rumah Adityawarman, South Jakarta, along with husband
Joseph-Marie Lempicka-Pividal, who runs the label's business
matters.
"I am very impressed with Indonesia's fashion scene. The
Lolita Lempicka name is already well-known with well-traveled
Indonesians. Fashion enthusiasts in Indonesia are among the most
stylish in Asia. It is clear that they have only one demand, and
that is perfection in their style," said Lempicka.
According to George Huels, the managing director of Singapore-
base ClubConcept, the license holder for Asia Pacific, the
company has much confidence in Indonesia and its purchasing
power.
"In the past, Indonesia had always played second fiddle after
Hong Kong or Singapore. The reality is that the market is good.
We see the opportunity of growing, we have assessed the risk, we
are very confident," he said, adding that Singapore's boutique
would open in two months' time.
Lolita Lempicka, the last remaining independent couture house
in France, has shied away from hitching up with a big business
backer in order "to eliminate the pressure on creativity".
The label was set up in 1984, as 19-year-old Lolita left
fashion school to pursue her dream to be a designer, establishing
her first boutique in Paris along with her husband.
Lolita Lempicka Couture was followed by Lolita-Bis for the
youth market, aged 15 to 25 years old, and Les Mariies de Lolita
wedding dress collection.
The brand became firmly established in Japan, where there are
now 120 boutiques, as well as countries of eastern Europe and the
Middle East.
In 1997, Lempicka launched her first scent for women, which
was said to be the most successful perfume launch in a decade.
Distributed in more than 7,000 outlets in 80 countries worldwide,
it ranks among the top four best-selling perfumes in France,
accounting for 3 percent of the total female fragrance sales in
the country.
The men's scent followed in 2002, earning a good reception
from media and customers.
The Lempickas have started to strengthen the family couture
empire, with eldest daughter Elisa coming on board as a designer.
Elisa's younger twin sisters will join next year for the youth
line.
The signature style of Lolita brims with femininity and
sensuality.
"It's all about femininity of women," confirmed Lempicka, who
presented 45 of her Spring/Summer 2004 collection here.
The catwalk was filled with delicate, fluid skirts and
dresses, in both subtle and fresh hues, and floral motifs as well
as delicate intricate embroidery.
Halter necks were all over the place, along with bustiers,
lingerie-light little dresses and two-piece suits.
The enchanting fairy tale is reflected in the constant use of
ivy, fruits, flowers, butterflies, ladybugs, etc, whether as
print motifs or embroidery, on soft materials such as linen,
satin, cotton or silk.
Neutral and pastel shades are contrasted with bright, strong,
fruity shades in red, mauves, turquoise and a spectrum of pinks
-- from sugary to shocking.
The delicate and fluid fabrics emphasize the clean and
masterly cut, giving a sense of comfort.
The intricate lace, embroidery and floral prints were
reminiscent of Balinese embroidery and motif. Lempicka
acknowledged that Asia, including Bali, was a special inspiration
for her.
"Bali has always been my dream destination. When I finally got
there, I was inspired by the dancers, the women. It is applied in
the silhouette of my designs, which are very sensual."
She added that she did not need to modify her designs to make
them more acceptable for the Asian market, because Asians were
already very feminine and sensual.
"I know Indonesia is a Muslim country, but I believe the
people are moderate. I respect the culture here."
Lempicka's collection, as Huels perfectly put it, is what
every woman dreams of, to be feminine and girlish, "like Alice in
Wonderland..."
Of course, as surreal as Alice's journey was, that feminine
fantasy starts at a hefty Rp 1.5 million and goes up from there.
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