JP/18/GARUT1

JP/18/GARUT1

checked -- JSR
Hidden delights of Garut now within easy reach of Jakarta

James Boyd
Contributor/Jakarta

The new Cipularang expressway linking Jakarta to Bandung has
opened up a whole new universe of weekend getaways to the south
and east of Bandung that were previously beyond the reach of all
but the most determined of weekend vacationers.

One of my favorite destinations to the southeast of Bandung is
Garut, a hidden gem of a destination replete with volcanoes, hot
springs, pine forests, lush countryside, and, if you've a bit
more time, some fine, deserted beaches further down on the south
coast.

Best of all, it's now only a three-and-a-half-hour drive from
Jakarta!

In fact, during the Dutch days, Garut was one of the
preeminent hill stations in all Java, and once you pay a visit
you'll quickly understand why!

The regency of Garut lies about 63 kilometers southwest of
Bandung on the southern branch of the main highway to the coast,
with the northern, and busier branch going through Tasikmalaya,
bypassing Garut entirely.

The roads in this part of West Java are well-paved, thus
making it a great place for motoring. But, given the mountainous
topography, needless to say there are plenty of twists and turns.
So take your time!

Located in a hollow between a ring of towering volcanoes, the
city of Garut itself is pretty nondescript, but, like most
smaller cities in West and Central Java, it's tidy and well-kept.

It's also a memorable sight as you come down from the
highlands early in the morning and see it laid out before you,
with its towering volcanic sentinels standing guard all around in
the shimmering haze.

At night, the scene is transformed into a flickering sea of
yellow light spread out as far as the eye can see.

Pleasant scenery, energetic pursuits

The countryside is verdant, and, with its temperate climate
and incredibly fertile volcanic soil, is a veritable Garden of
Eden, producing everything from potatoes and carrots to beef and
dairy cattle, which no doubt explains the evident prosperity of
the region and its people.

Most tourists come to Garut to visit the Cipanas spa resort,
just to the northwest of the city at the foot of Mt. Guntur, and
a great favorite of the Dutch.

While most vestiges of the colonial era have disappeared, this
is still a truly beautiful area, and offers a selection of four-
and five-star hotels, all with swimming pools filled with
steaming water from the springs.

For those who have had enough of wallowing in the baths,
there's plenty of more energetic pursuits available around
Cipanas, including hiking up Mt. Guntur, a 10-hour round trip
passing the Curug Citiis waterfall.

The slopes of the mountain are unforested, however, and the
sun is pretty fierce at these elevations, so definitely not for
the faint-hearted.

If Mt. Curug doesn't sate your appetite for hiking up large
immovable objects, then Mt. Papandayan (2,662 meters) should
definitely do so. This is one of the most active volcanoes in
West Java and regularly puts on displays of fireworks.

If not off-limits, the massive yellow devil's cauldron of
steaming, bubbling mud and the surrounding lunar landscapes are
only a 30-minute trek up from the parking lot half way up the
mountainside.

The trek is well worth it for a vision of what hell is most
probably like and puts everything written by Dante to shame. From
the crater, its a roughly two-hour walk up to Papandayan's
summit. Once again, there's no shade and the sun is merciless, so
do yourself a favor and bring a good, wide-brimmed hat.

Now, after all that mountain trekking, how about something a
little more cultural? About half-way on the main road from Garut
to Tasikmalaya, roughly 30 kilometers east of Garut, is the
memorable village of Kampung Naga, one of the few truly
traditional thatched Sundanese villages left in West Java, and a
treat to behold nestled down in the spectacularly green river
valley between the towering peaks.

It's a fairly steep, 350-step climb down to the village from
the parking lot near the highway, and you'll be told that its
mandatory to accept the services of a guide, although we saw
plenty of visitors wandering around on their own.

Another cultural attraction in the vicinity of Garut is the
Candi Cangkuang Hindu temple, which was first mapped and recorded
by the Dutch in 1893, when it was in ruins. However, it was not
until 1976 that it was finally restored.

The temple itself is small but nevertheless impressive in a
primeval, lost-city sort of way. But the real treat is the fact
that you have to cross a small lake on a bamboo raft to get to
it. The area is also an Islamic place of pilgrimage as Arif
Muhammad, a Muslim holy man, is buried right next to the temple,
so the place can get quite crowded with pilgrims.

If you've had your fill of climbing volcanoes, visiting
temples and turning pink in the baths, then head into Garut city
to sample dodol, a local, exceedingly sweet treat made from
coconut milk, palm sugar and sticky rice.

Shopping in the city

You either love this or hate it but, whatever the case, it's
ubiquitous and cheap. There are plenty of places to stock up on
the main road out of Garut to Bandung.

Garut is also famous for its leather goods -- made from cow,
goat and sheep skins. The quality is good and all the stuff is
dirt cheap.

You can pick up a spanking new leather jacket for Rp 700,000
compared with Rp 3 million or more in Jakarta. The styles are
pretty stodgy, but download your own design from the Internet or
take the latest copy of Biker magazine down with you. They can
knock a smashing jacket together in only two days.

For those for whom a vacation is not worth the time or effort
without a trip to the beach, then a visit to the wild south coast
at Pameunpeuk will be just the ticket.

About four hours from Garut along a twisting road winding its
way through some of the most impressive scenery in Java, you'll
need more than a weekend to do this area justice.

Among the beaches down here are Pantai Sayang Heulang, Pantai
Santolo and Pantai Cijayana. There's not much in the way of
accommodation, though, so be prepared to rough it.

And for golf enthusiasts, Garut also has a little gem of a
nine-hole course nestling on the slopes five kilometers to the
south of the city.

This was first established by the Dutch, but the original
hotel and clubhouse have long disappeared, replaced by ugly
concrete structures. Just ignore these and concentrate on the
golf, and the wonderful views looking down on Garut.

So there you have it: Garut, a place with something for
everyone and now not much more than a stone's throw from Jakarta!