Jaya Agung for satay on the cheap

Jaya Agung for satay on the cheap

JAKARTA (JP): This week we check out one of the oldest
established (1972) satay restaurants in Jakarta which to this day
remains a highly popular choice for cheap eats.

Jaya Agung, Jl. Wahid Hasyim No. 56c, Central Jakarta (on the
corner of Jl. Sabang, next to the Djakarta Theater building and
across from Sarinah Thamrin).

Open: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

What's it got: As a warung (roadside restaurant) with solid
walls, the menu is somewhat restricted, but seems to be just the
ticket for the Jaya Agung's regular patrons. The list of goodies
available is dominated by goat dishes (and not very juvenile goat
either, it would appear), with such staples as East Javanese-
style sate kambing (goat satay), sate hati kambing (goat liver
satay), soto Madura (a clear soup consisting of various parts of
the beast, including the lungs, intestines and liver -- not for
the faint-hearted, perhaps), and gulai kambing (a kind of lightly
spiced goat curry).

For the non-goat eater, there are also soto ayam (light
chicken soup), and sop kaki sapi (beef shank soup) available. As
to be expected, rice and lontong (rice steamed in banana leaves)
round off the menu.

All the usual soft drinks are on offer and each meal is served
with a glass of complimentary hot, but rather watery, tea. Beer
is also available (served with ice!).

Price Points: Ten sticks of sate kambing for a reasonable Rp
11,000, gulai kambing for Rp 6,000 per serving, soto Madura and
the other soups at Rp 6,000 per serving, and, finally, both rice
and lontong coming in at Rp 1,500 per serving.

Looks: Well, not very impressive, to say the least. Could do
with a lick of paint and a bit of a scrub but quite clean overall
(surprising given the fact that the staff seem to be run off
their feet 90 percent of the time). Of course, forget about air-
conditioning and other little luxuries (also, go to the restroom
before you leave home as they don't have one). But, what the
heck! This a basic, traditional eating-house and the regular
aficionados don't seem to mind. Food is what is on their minds!

Popular with: Office workers from Jl. Thamrin, shop workers,
passersby, backpackers from the tourist haven of Jl. Jaksa, just
about everybody, in fact.

Taste Factor: Rather disappointing, truth to tell. The sate
kambing was far too undercooked (probably due to the fact that
the staff were so busy) and had to be sent back for a second
attempt. The goat meat was also somewhat tough (definitely far
from being kid) -- not recommended for those of us with false
teeth! On top of that, the rice seemed to be particularly plagued
by small stones (a common problem in warung everywhere) -- not
recommended for those of us with real teeth!

But there were no complaints about the sop kaki sapi, gulai
kambing or soto Madura, all of which were pronounced delicious by
our party of three diners.

Minus Points: As the Jaya Agung is open fronted, there is a
problem with smoke blowing from where the satay sticks are being
broiled, not to mention the noise and air pollution from busy Jl.
Wahid Hasyim in front. There are also frequently teams of beggars
hanging around the area.

The service can also be erratic as there are frequently not
enough waiters to serve the large number of hungry diners. And do
remember to watch out for those small stones if you don't want to
be paying an unexpected call on your dentist!

Verdict: Nothing more and nothing less than is to be expected
from a Jakarta warung -- food served (normally) quickly and
cheaply to the masses. No frills on hand, but no exorbitant and
unwanted pecuniary demands on your pocket either. (Bill Blade)