Ika blends tradition and modernity in 'moedik' collection

Ika blends tradition and modernity in 'moedik' collection

Rita A. Widiadana and
Pariama Hutasoit
The Jakarta Post
Sanur, Bali

The word "moedik" means homecoming, but for Balinese fashion
designer Mardiana Ika it is a reflection of the finest clothes
she has produced in her 17 years of work in various overseas
countries.

Ika brought these clothes home to Bali for a solo fashion show
in late March. Approximately 104 pieces of female and male
clothing were displayed in the ballroom of the Radisson Hotel in
Sanur, attracting hundreds of local fashion lovers who came
dressed in white and silver evening dress, according to the
event's strict dress code.

"White has been my signature for years and I want my show
filled with white and silvery colors," Ika said by phone from
Beijing a day after the show.

Ika's fashion show rested on two concepts -- tradition and
modernity. The displayed pieces were divided into five categories
-- Dadong (grandmother in the Balinese language), Indigo, Kebaya
Hitam and Kebaya Putih (black and white traditional female
blouses), Multi and Male.

The traditional Balinese outfits worn by elderly women along
with tengkulak (headscarves) inspired the pieces in the Dadong
collection.

Ika uses Balinese textiles like endek (single woven cloth) or
black-and-white square-form poleng fabrics tailored into modern-
style clothes like poleng swimwear (or so it looked!) over black-
striped stockings and high-heeled shoes.

All the models at the show wore tengkulak like elderly
Balinese women. Ika modified her Dadong collection with various
kinds of modern fabrics like linen, knits and lycra. One stunning
piece bore the likeness of an old woman on the blouse and skirt.
A model even appeared wrapped in endek cloth, like a Balinese
woman going to pray at the temple.

Most of Ika's designs feature clean cuts and pay attention to
details. Inspired by the rich tradition of Indonesian arts, her
clothes reveal intricate patterns and motifs. From the simple
white, cotton shirts to the most spectacular evening wear, her
clothes invariably incorporate some form of embroidery or
beadwork.

"I regard myself as a spectator in the world of the imaginary,
who believes in combining things that are normally in contrast,"
the designer explained.

Her evening gowns were colorful and glamorous. Among her most
striking design was a brown transparent lace gown worn over a
thick, wrapped skirt. The model surprised the audience when she
unwrapped the skirt to give everyone a glimpse of her curvy body.

"I firmly believe that I draw inspiration from the places I
visit and my interactions with people of different lands and of
diverse cultural backgrounds.

"And all of these things have helped me develop the basic
ingredients of my craft," Ika said.

Born in Pematang Siantar, North Sumatra, Ika studied design
and pattern cutting in 1973 from Shanghai tailors at the famous
Far East Dress-Making and Design School, long before the Hong
Kong Polytechnic University opened.

In l977, Ika continued her studies at the London College of
Fashion, where she learned the craftsmanship of design before
working at German Fashion house L'Estelle for four years, leaving
to start her own company, Butoni Limited, in Hong Kong. Now, she
is the managing director and designer of Butoni Ltd.

"My life is divided between family in Bali and my profession,
which requires me to travel around the world," said Ika, who is
married to an American interior designer. The couple have one
son.

Her Kebaya collections emerged in a variety of cuttings and
colors.

"Kebaya has been the cloth of Indonesian women for centuries
and I mine inspiration from its beauty and elegance," she said.

Ika presented white embroidery lace gowns -- a combination of
kemben (chest-wrapped cloth) and long skirts. She also played
with various kebaya styles, sometimes combining the blouses with
woolen shirts.

"It is for my winter collection," said the designer, who just
displayed her fall and winter collections during the Hong Kong
Fashion Week.

Her clothes for men were cute and simple, consisting of white
shirts over loose black or beige pants.

"I want my men to look fresh and trendy," Ika explained.

For the show in Sanur, Ika teamed with local jewelry designer
Suarti, whose pieces provided the perfect adornments for Ika's
designs.