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Gucci men's wear

| Source: JP

Gucci men's wear
Ford brings elegant Thirties back

Hera Diani
The Jakarta Post
Jakarta

People call it the Elegant Thirties. It was a period of glamorous
style, with formal wear for men and sleek bias cut gowns for
women. The period of lavish musicals where Fred Astaire and
Ginger Rogers paired for the first time. The era of Clark Gable
and Carey Grant.

It was so elegant and memorable that Tom Ford, Gucci's
designer, used it as the main inspiration for the upcoming
fall/winter collection, in line with this year's fashion trends,
which seem to be moving toward the past.

While Gucci's previous men's collection was heavy on jeans and
sportswear, this models for this collection, with their neat and
slicked-back hair, indicate that it is time to be formal and
classical, yet casual and modern.

The formal style is expressed with jackets and polished
elegant shoes. Jackets, indeed, play a huge role in this
collection. They come with fitted volume, slim cut on the arm and
a natural shoulder cut.

The jackets are single-breasted, two-button with wide and
formal peaked lapels.

Coats, which appear in many designers' fall/winter
collections, also exist in Ford's collection, to the tune of some
20 of them.

The whole formal atmosphere is added to with suits. As
business suits reigned supreme in the 1930s, and with Astaire and
Gable bringing suits to the silver screen, Ford has adopted and
adapted the look for evening wear.

Tuxedos with different layering appear in the collection, with
waistcoats and coat linings that can be reversed or removed.

Another obvious element from the 1930s adopted for this
collection is the color (back then, it was muted and deep hues).

The Gucci collection is dominated by black, which is Ford's
favorite. Nude colors like beige, ivory and stone are also seen,
as well as dark colors like deep green, dark burgundy and dark
brown.

As mentioned, there is also a casualness that finds expression
in the collection. It is applied in a sense that wearing the same
color from head to toe is not always necessary. Instead, brown
shoes can be combined with a black suit, gray shirt and brown
scarf.

We can also see that jackets are not always worn with formal
shirts, but also with V-neck T-shirts.

The casual mode is also distinct in the wool sweater and the
wide, spacious and very long trousers with seven-centimeter
cuffs, worn very low on the hips.

Fabrics used in this collection are luxurious: silk, wool,
suede, leather and cashmere. Specific and rare materials like
Japanese cotton and washed Italian felt are also used.

Leather and fur are applied as lining for coats. Some coats
also have lining made from beaver and shaved mink (better be
fake, though), as well as shearling.

As for accessories, the top of the list are the hand-polished
leather shoes. There are also a lot of scarves, ties and cravats,
which are combined with shirts with long and pointed collars.

Wider ties made from ultra soft fabrics are worn in a very
small knot.

Following the example of Gable and Grant, other accessories
are fedoras. And gloves from a very soft and thin material
complete the look.

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