Gucci men's wear
\nFord brings elegant Thirties back<\/p>\n
Hera Diani
\nThe Jakarta Post
\nJakarta<\/p>\n
People call it the Elegant Thirties. It was a period of glamorous
\nstyle, with formal wear for men and sleek bias cut gowns for
\nwomen. The period of lavish musicals where Fred Astaire and
\nGinger Rogers paired for the first time. The era of Clark Gable
\nand Carey Grant.<\/p>\n
It was so elegant and memorable that Tom Ford, Gucci's
\ndesigner, used it as the main inspiration for the upcoming
\nfall\/winter collection, in line with this year's fashion trends,
\nwhich seem to be moving toward the past.<\/p>\n
While Gucci's previous men's collection was heavy on jeans and
\nsportswear, this models for this collection, with their neat and
\nslicked-back hair, indicate that it is time to be formal and
\nclassical, yet casual and modern.<\/p>\n
The formal style is expressed with jackets and polished
\nelegant shoes. Jackets, indeed, play a huge role in this
\ncollection. They come with fitted volume, slim cut on the arm and
\na natural shoulder cut.<\/p>\n
The jackets are single-breasted, two-button with wide and
\nformal peaked lapels.<\/p>\n
Coats, which appear in many designers' fall\/winter
\ncollections, also exist in Ford's collection, to the tune of some
\n20 of them.<\/p>\n
The whole formal atmosphere is added to with suits. As
\nbusiness suits reigned supreme in the 1930s, and with Astaire and
\nGable bringing suits to the silver screen, Ford has adopted and
\nadapted the look for evening wear.<\/p>\n
Tuxedos with different layering appear in the collection, with
\nwaistcoats and coat linings that can be reversed or removed.<\/p>\n
Another obvious element from the 1930s adopted for this
\ncollection is the color (back then, it was muted and deep hues).<\/p>\n
The Gucci collection is dominated by black, which is Ford's
\nfavorite. Nude colors like beige, ivory and stone are also seen,
\nas well as dark colors like deep green, dark burgundy and dark
\nbrown.<\/p>\n
As mentioned, there is also a casualness that finds expression
\nin the collection. It is applied in a sense that wearing the same
\ncolor from head to toe is not always necessary. Instead, brown
\nshoes can be combined with a black suit, gray shirt and brown
\nscarf.<\/p>\n
We can also see that jackets are not always worn with formal
\nshirts, but also with V-neck T-shirts.<\/p>\n
The casual mode is also distinct in the wool sweater and the
\nwide, spacious and very long trousers with seven-centimeter
\ncuffs, worn very low on the hips.<\/p>\n
Fabrics used in this collection are luxurious: silk, wool,
\nsuede, leather and cashmere. Specific and rare materials like
\nJapanese cotton and washed Italian felt are also used.<\/p>\n
Leather and fur are applied as lining for coats. Some coats
\nalso have lining made from beaver and shaved mink (better be
\nfake, though), as well as shearling.<\/p>\n
As for accessories, the top of the list are the hand-polished
\nleather shoes. There are also a lot of scarves, ties and cravats,
\nwhich are combined with shirts with long and pointed collars.<\/p>\n
Wider ties made from ultra soft fabrics are worn in a very
\nsmall knot.<\/p>\n
Following the example of Gable and Grant, other accessories
\nare fedoras. And gloves from a very soft and thin material
\ncomplete the look.<\/p>",
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