Flanagan's will have also-rans green with envy

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

Curious but true. Despite being one of the biggest, most bustling cities you're likely to find, Jakarta has never had a proper Irish pub worthy of the name, a place where you can plank yourself down and throw off your worldly cares in the sort of convivial and relaxed atmosphere that has made Irish pubs so popular.

Until recently, that is. For I now have the good fortune to be able to report to all you thirsty tipplers out there that the Hotel Sari Pan Pacific has been gracious enough to get rid of that staid old Melati Bar and, instead, pamper us with Flanagan's, the latest, and so far most successful, attempt at recreating an Emerald Isle hostelry here in the Big Smoke.

Looks: Well, the first thing that came to mind as I moseyed my way in through the suitably impressive double doors emblazoned with the Flanagan family coat of arms (don't even think of asking if it's the real thing...), was that this place has got to be the product of one of those tried and tested Guinness Irish Pub kits that they've been busily exporting out of Dublin to some of the unlikeliest of places over the last decade.

Well, what else is one to think given all the Irish pub paraphernalia cluttering up the walls. After all, you're not likely to come across too many shamrock plaques and traditional Celtic carvings on Jl. Surabaya, are you?

But, according to Irene Holle, Flanagan's suave and sophisticated operations' manager, this is all an illusion, albeit an understandable one. For Flanagan's, it would appear, has no connection to the brewers of the black stuff (Guinness), other than stocking their tipples, including such delights as Kilkenny Irish Beer.

Rather, Flanagan's comes from the same stable as that old workhorse for after-work punters in Blok M, the Stamford Arms. And, just like the Stamford Arms, the designers of Flanagan's have gone all out to get the appropriate feel. Thus, while red, the color of John Bull's isle, is the predominant theme in the Blok M hostelry, green (the traditional color of Ireland), steals the show up on Jl. Thamrin.

In fact, the place is so green -- even the waitresses are all decked out in dainty little green pinafores -- you could be forgiven for thinking you've landed in on some bawdy leprechauns' day out.

But, that's the way it should be in an Irish pub, even if it is a cliche, a reality that some other pretenders to the name failed to understand in Jakarta, trusting instead in varying ersatz Irish pub concepts -- concepts that in the end failed miserably.

What's it got: For me, the highlight of Flanagan's is the joyful fact that it stocks large cans of Kilkenny Irish Beer (Rp 49,500), complete with widgets to ensure a nice, frothy head. What's so special about this particular brew, then? Well, not a lot really, apart from the fact that it's the first beer I ever tasted many moons ago back in Ireland, where I hail from.

In those days, of course, it was known as Smithwick's Ale (a type of bitter or brown beer), and was basically the sort of watery, nondescript brew that novices were introduced to before venturing on to the more adventurous stuff. But, for all that, I loved it, and still do!

And now, here it is in Jakarta all packaged up in flashy new cans and sporting a new name, presumably more attractive to punters than the old one, although I don't see why this should be the case. Just like Marks and Sparks metamorphosing into one of Asia's trendiest chain stores, are we now going to see the reincarnated Smithwick's transformed into some sort of new- fangled, boutique beer?

Besides Smithwick's ... sorry, Kilkenny, they've also got a fine selection of other imported beers, including Corona, Foster's, Hahn Premium, MGD, Miller Lite, Toohey's New and Red, VB and XXXX (all Rp 31,000) -- a lot better than your average selection in Jakarta hotels.

After from the beer, the next best thing about Flanagan's is the food, enough to have any true Irishman, or other Northern European for that matter, wistfully crying into his pint. Just look at what they've got here: Flanagan's Braised Beef in Guinness Pie (Rp 69,000), Boiled Bacon and Cabbage (Rp 37,000), Mullingar Heiffer and Cabbage (boiled corned beef served with boiled potatoes and dressed cabbage - Rp 42,000), Irish Stew, and a whole lot more.

As for desserts, what about Home-made Bread and Butter Pudding (Rp 25,000), Apple Duffs and Cream (Rp 32,000) or Gaelic Mousse flavored with Irish Whiskey and Marinated Fruits (Rp 25,000).

All the food is prepared by an Irish chef (didn't have the chance to meet him), so you're guaranteed it's the real thing. Absolutely delicious, I can assure you.

Verdict: All 'round, a more than welcome and timely addition to the Jakarta pub scene. Congratulations and wishing you great success.

Flanagan's Irish Pub and Restaurant; Hotel Sari Pan Pacific; Jl. M.H. Thamrin, Jakarta 10340.; You can call them on 390-2707 (ext. 2462).; All prices quoted above exclude 11% tax and 10% service.