Exploring an attractive, legendary beach in West Sumatra

Exploring an attractive, legendary beach in West Sumatra

By Simon Marcus Gower

JAKARTA (JP): Every country has its myths, legends and
folklore that embellish cultures and in many instances draw
people together towards a mutual experience and understanding of
life's lessons. Indonesia, it seems, has more than its fair share
of these intriguing tales. All parts of the country, large or
small, urban or rural, near or far, have tales often from times
long past that form part of the culture. Some of these tales are
more fanciful than others, featuring outlandish escapades and
creatures from fantasy worlds but most, (if not all), have some
message or lesson that is as relevant to our modern world as it
was when the stories first occurred or were first invented.

In West Sumatra there are many such tales but traveling
towards the small fishing village of Air Manis (Sweet Water),
south of Padang, it is hard to believe that any such legends
might have come to exist in this remote part. Traveling over
round topped hills that are covered by dense vegetation there are
few signs of human habitation. Occasionally through clearings in
the vegetation the coastline can be glimpsed but here too there
are few signs of the influences of humanity. The clear blue water
washes up to Sumatra's untouched shorelines and sitting quietly
just off the coast are tiny islands that are entirely covered by
trees and other vegetation that suggests that humans rarely set
foot on them.

But as you travel on toward Air Manis along undulating and
bumpy roads that weave through the near jungle-like conditions
more and more glimpses of the coast can be seen and the
occasional fishing boat may be noticed bobbing on the surface of
the calm crystal-clear waters. Gradually it will be noticed that
there are many boats floating just offshore with lone fishermen
casting their nets and as you descend down the hills this is a
clear sign that you are closing in on the fishing village of Air
Manis.

Passing through the village it is apparent that this is a
quite traditional little settlement. The houses are built in
amongst a maze of trees that lead down to the coast. Rice and
fish are laid out in the sun to dry and many of the houses are
built entirely from natural materials standing on short wooden
stilts, with timber walls, thatched roofs and no glazing in
windows only shutters that are closed at night and opened again
in the morning.

At the southern edge of the village is the beach. First,
though, some swampy ground has to be passed that suggests that a
legend here might involve a crocodile but soon there is sand
beneath your feet and the trees part to reveal an attractive
enclosed beach.

A secluded tropical haven has been reached and it is here that
a legend is said to have occurred. It is here that the legend of
Malin Kundang is told and retold.

All myths and legends are prone to different interpretations.
Every person that tells and retells the tale is liable to add a
little something for extra dramatic effect or forget to include
some detail. That is human nature. But this is how an elderly
resident of the village recounted Malin Kundang's story.

It seems that Malin Kundang was a restless soul and soon he
felt that he had to leave his family in this idyllic tropical
place to seek his fortune elsewhere.

Restless though he was he did not forget his family and home
and so soon after achieving success and gaining great fortune he
sailed back homeward. But upon arrival home misfortune was to
fall upon him, his fellow sailors and his family.

Coming ashore at the beach at Air Manis Malin Kundang's mother
rushed to meet her long lost son. But this son upon looking at
his mother felt ashamed. Here he was a rich man wearing fine new
clothing while his mother was looking ragged and poor as she was.

In his undisguised disgust he ignored his mother, refused to
greet her and returned to his ship. Of course, his mother was
humiliated and heartbroken by her arrogant son's behavior. She
fell to her knees in desperation and prayed to God asking that
her son be punished for his cruel ways.

Soon a terrible storm rose up and Malin Kundang's ship was
wrecked upon the rocks of one of the nearby islands. All but one
of the people on the ship died in the wreck. Only Malin Kundang
got away from the rocks as the sea picked him up and carried him
towards his home.

Exhausted and badly injured Malin Kundang tried to get ashore
but as he crawled on his hands and knees he was suddenly turned
to stone.

Today a stony portion of Air Manis beach has a stone that from
a certain angle resembles the figure of a man on his hands and
knees his head seemingly buried in the rock. Thus, it is said,
Malin Kundang has been forced to stay on the beach for all time,
forever begging for forgiveness from his mother who he shamed so
badly.

Around this rocky figure barrels and ropes have been carved
into the stone to represent the shipwreck washed up on the shore.
But today this beach is a tranquil place with nothing to suggest
that the violence of a shipwreck could happen here or even near
here.

The sea gently rolls in onto the beach and when the tide goes
out the nearest islands that sit just offshore can actually be
walked to because the sandy beach reaches out to them. This means
that, at the right time of day, the beach can be both quite long
and wide.

Overall, though, the beach at Air Manis remains pleasantly
secluded. It sits in a protected alcove with trees closing it in
on one side and the village and its trees on the other.

In the shade of some of these trees it is possible to sit,
relax and appreciate the untouched tropical beauty of the
seascape before you. Malin Kundang's sad story may teach of the
folly and foibles of human beings but thankfully until now human
beings have not disturbed the beauty and peace of this location
with their foolhardy developments. True the village and the
fishermen out in their boats are clear signs of human habitation
but they are limited and acceptable as they only add to the
idyllic character of this place.

The tale of a family's woe makes Air Manis a legendary
location and may offer a lesson in life. The natural beauty and
restfulness of this place may be a lesson to the soul and lift
the spirit. Combined -- the story and the sight of this beach add
up to a contemplative destination -- a destination where one
might consider one's own destiny.