English elegance in the sun-drenched Caribbean

JAKARTA (JP): If you're dressed by Dunhill you don't need to worry about style or whether your clothes are in fashion. Alfred Dunhill, luxury menswear and accessories manufacturer, concentrates on assuring its clientele of style and a certain timeless elegance, positioning itself in a niche between the two extremes of traditional conservatism and trendy high fashion.

A cool English plantation home in the sun-drenched Caribbean -- this was the inspiration behind the theme of their Spring/Summer 1996 Collection shown Tuesday at the Regent Hotel. Geographic locations have often provided the focus for their collections, bringing together the six designers who design for each of the clothing divisions. Previous themes have included Provence and the English city of Bath.

The Caribbean in many ways is a perfect choice for a range of clothing that is dedicated, after all, to the presentation of the English style of dressing. The colonial settlers brought to the islands many things uniquely, even quaintly, English; afternoon tea, dressing for dinner, cricket in the summer, polo in the winter. The clothes are designed to be worn with ease in the tropics, with relaxed cuts and a comfortable fit, tailored in versatile mixed fabrics like wool crepes, worsteds and interesting combinations of wool with linen or silk.

Colors dominating the show were variations and combinations of cool blues, warmer beiges and browns, creams and whites. None of the materials were plain, with textures introduced through the weave, fabric blend or a subtle pattern.

Suits followed a silhouette at once both slimmer and more relaxed, the jackets with three buttons and patch pockets, the trousers sporting forward facing pleats. The look was almost monochromatic, but interestingly so, and included fine houndstooth, graphic or micro checks. There were a few larger checks and the ubiquitous pinstripe reasserted itself, in the same easy-to-wear color range of deep blues, navy and brown.

If understated elegance is a hallmark of fine English dressing, then equally so is a touch of individuality -- sometimes expressed with a note of wit or even eccentricity. The opportunity for individual expression was offered by the range of colorful ties, waistcoats and other accessories on offer. Printed silk bow ties and cummerbunds, for instance, were interesting details that completed lightweight white wool dinner jacket and trouser suits.

Waistcoats have definitely made a strong comeback as a fashion statement in recent times. In the Dunhill collection too they were in evidence, either as part of the formal three-piece suit, or separately, adding a sporty, contemporary touch. Another Dunhill favorite is the limited edition, this time, hand-knitted sweaters with nautical motifs.

A note of color was introduced in the business shirts, some in such an exceptionally bold check conservative businessmen might take a while to feel comfortable buying, let alone wearing, them. There is the usual Dunhill attention paid to the details of styling, with some shirts sporting a new cut-away collar to accommodate the larger knots resulting from the more heavyweight ties often worn nowadays.

Ties. Color really found expression in the Caribbean- influenced motifs. Executed in pleasing watercolor washes, the images ranged from plantation life to island sports and images of palm trees, cacti and sunny deck chairs. The woven tie reappeared with a strong display of contemporary looking stripes, checks, and textured seersucker striping.

Color was also used to enliven the more casual clothes of the collection. The coral island colors of the Caribbean, emerald greens, reds, blues and touches of yellow, were the inspiration for the bright checked cotton shirts and T-Shirts, teamed with crisp white Bermuda shorts and comfortable slip-ons. The easy practical casual wear included T-shirts, shorts and jacket ensembles in coordinated color blocking. Less colorful combinations included a brown and cream nautical stripe teamed with cream trousers and a lightweight mocha jacket.

The collection was presented by Peter Tilley, Alfred Dunhill's Design Manager. In addition to being in charge of creative development he also functions as the company's design spokesperson. Tilley has taken a special interest in fostering the creativity of young and upcoming English designers. He was responsible for the establishment of the company's design studio, and for the introduction of more contemporary casual lines, including the popular poloshirt business.

Alfred Dunhill opened its first Asian boutique in 1966 in Hong Kong. It has since expanded to cover 14 Asia-Pacific markets, including Indonesia, Singapore and Australia. In Indonesia itself there are two outlets, in Plaza Indonesia and the new, popular Plaza Senayan.

The Dunhill look is aimed at the successful businessman, the corporate executive aged about 35 years and upwards. The classical designs have retained their elegant English styling, but acquired a more contemporary feel with the new innovative fabrics and cut. Without sacrificing style, it has introduced comfort and functionality, the three necessities of the modern wardrobe.