English elegance in the sun-drenched Caribbean

English elegance in the sun-drenched Caribbean

JAKARTA (JP): If you're dressed by Dunhill you don't need to
worry about style or whether your clothes are in fashion. Alfred
Dunhill, luxury menswear and accessories manufacturer,
concentrates on assuring its clientele of style and a certain
timeless elegance, positioning itself in a niche between the two
extremes of traditional conservatism and trendy high fashion.

A cool English plantation home in the sun-drenched Caribbean
-- this was the inspiration behind the theme of their
Spring/Summer 1996 Collection shown Tuesday at the Regent Hotel.
Geographic locations have often provided the focus for their
collections, bringing together the six designers who design for
each of the clothing divisions. Previous themes have included
Provence and the English city of Bath.

The Caribbean in many ways is a perfect choice for a range of
clothing that is dedicated, after all, to the presentation of the
English style of dressing. The colonial settlers brought to the
islands many things uniquely, even quaintly, English; afternoon
tea, dressing for dinner, cricket in the summer, polo in the
winter. The clothes are designed to be worn with ease in the
tropics, with relaxed cuts and a comfortable fit, tailored in
versatile mixed fabrics like wool crepes, worsteds and
interesting combinations of wool with linen or silk.

Colors dominating the show were variations and combinations of
cool blues, warmer beiges and browns, creams and whites. None of
the materials were plain, with textures introduced through the
weave, fabric blend or a subtle pattern.

Suits followed a silhouette at once both slimmer and more
relaxed, the jackets with three buttons and patch pockets, the
trousers sporting forward facing pleats. The look was almost
monochromatic, but interestingly so, and included fine
houndstooth, graphic or micro checks. There were a few larger
checks and the ubiquitous pinstripe reasserted itself, in the
same easy-to-wear color range of deep blues, navy and brown.

If understated elegance is a hallmark of fine English
dressing, then equally so is a touch of individuality --
sometimes expressed with a note of wit or even eccentricity. The
opportunity for individual expression was offered by the range of
colorful ties, waistcoats and other accessories on offer. Printed
silk bow ties and cummerbunds, for instance, were interesting
details that completed lightweight white wool dinner jacket and
trouser suits.

Waistcoats have definitely made a strong comeback as a fashion
statement in recent times. In the Dunhill collection too they
were in evidence, either as part of the formal three-piece suit,
or separately, adding a sporty, contemporary touch. Another
Dunhill favorite is the limited edition, this time, hand-knitted
sweaters with nautical motifs.

A note of color was introduced in the business shirts, some in
such an exceptionally bold check conservative businessmen might
take a while to feel comfortable buying, let alone wearing, them.
There is the usual Dunhill attention paid to the details of
styling, with some shirts sporting a new cut-away collar to
accommodate the larger knots resulting from the more heavyweight
ties often worn nowadays.

Ties. Color really found expression in the Caribbean-
influenced motifs. Executed in pleasing watercolor washes, the
images ranged from plantation life to island sports and images of
palm trees, cacti and sunny deck chairs. The woven tie reappeared
with a strong display of contemporary looking stripes, checks,
and textured seersucker striping.

Color was also used to enliven the more casual clothes of the
collection. The coral island colors of the Caribbean, emerald
greens, reds, blues and touches of yellow, were the inspiration
for the bright checked cotton shirts and T-Shirts, teamed with
crisp white Bermuda shorts and comfortable slip-ons. The easy
practical casual wear included T-shirts, shorts and jacket
ensembles in coordinated color blocking. Less colorful
combinations included a brown and cream nautical stripe teamed
with cream trousers and a lightweight mocha jacket.

The collection was presented by Peter Tilley, Alfred Dunhill's
Design Manager. In addition to being in charge of creative
development he also functions as the company's design
spokesperson. Tilley has taken a special interest in fostering
the creativity of young and upcoming English designers. He was
responsible for the establishment of the company's design studio,
and for the introduction of more contemporary casual lines,
including the popular poloshirt business.

Alfred Dunhill opened its first Asian boutique in 1966 in Hong
Kong. It has since expanded to cover 14 Asia-Pacific markets,
including Indonesia, Singapore and Australia. In Indonesia itself
there are two outlets, in Plaza Indonesia and the new, popular
Plaza Senayan.

The Dunhill look is aimed at the successful businessman, the
corporate executive aged about 35 years and upwards. The
classical designs have retained their elegant English styling,
but acquired a more contemporary feel with the new innovative
fabrics and cut. Without sacrificing style, it has introduced
comfort and functionality, the three necessities of the modern
wardrobe.