English elegance in the sun-drenched Caribbean<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): If you're dressed by Dunhill you don't need to
\nworry about style or whether your clothes are in fashion. Alfred
\nDunhill, luxury menswear and accessories manufacturer,
\nconcentrates on assuring its clientele of style and a certain
\ntimeless elegance, positioning itself in a niche between the two
\nextremes of traditional conservatism and trendy high fashion.<\/p>\n
A cool English plantation home in the sun-drenched Caribbean
\n-- this was the inspiration behind the theme of their
\nSpring\/Summer 1996 Collection shown Tuesday at the Regent Hotel.
\nGeographic locations have often provided the focus for their
\ncollections, bringing together the six designers who design for
\neach of the clothing divisions. Previous themes have included
\nProvence and the English city of Bath.<\/p>\n
The Caribbean in many ways is a perfect choice for a range of
\nclothing that is dedicated, after all, to the presentation of the
\nEnglish style of dressing. The colonial settlers brought to the
\nislands many things uniquely, even quaintly, English; afternoon
\ntea, dressing for dinner, cricket in the summer, polo in the
\nwinter. The clothes are designed to be worn with ease in the
\ntropics, with relaxed cuts and a comfortable fit, tailored in
\nversatile mixed fabrics like wool crepes, worsteds and
\ninteresting combinations of wool with linen or silk.<\/p>\n
Colors dominating the show were variations and combinations of
\ncool blues, warmer beiges and browns, creams and whites. None of
\nthe materials were plain, with textures introduced through the
\nweave, fabric blend or a subtle pattern.<\/p>\n
Suits followed a silhouette at once both slimmer and more
\nrelaxed, the jackets with three buttons and patch pockets, the
\ntrousers sporting forward facing pleats. The look was almost
\nmonochromatic, but interestingly so, and included fine
\nhoundstooth, graphic or micro checks. There were a few larger
\nchecks and the ubiquitous pinstripe reasserted itself, in the
\nsame easy-to-wear color range of deep blues, navy and brown.<\/p>\n
If understated elegance is a hallmark of fine English
\ndressing, then equally so is a touch of individuality --
\nsometimes expressed with a note of wit or even eccentricity. The
\nopportunity for individual expression was offered by the range of
\ncolorful ties, waistcoats and other accessories on offer. Printed
\nsilk bow ties and cummerbunds, for instance, were interesting
\ndetails that completed lightweight white wool dinner jacket and
\ntrouser suits.<\/p>\n
Waistcoats have definitely made a strong comeback as a fashion
\nstatement in recent times. In the Dunhill collection too they
\nwere in evidence, either as part of the formal three-piece suit,
\nor separately, adding a sporty, contemporary touch. Another
\nDunhill favorite is the limited edition, this time, hand-knitted
\nsweaters with nautical motifs.<\/p>\n
A note of color was introduced in the business shirts, some in
\nsuch an exceptionally bold check conservative businessmen might
\ntake a while to feel comfortable buying, let alone wearing, them.
\nThere is the usual Dunhill attention paid to the details of
\nstyling, with some shirts sporting a new cut-away collar to
\naccommodate the larger knots resulting from the more heavyweight
\nties often worn nowadays.<\/p>\n
Ties. Color really found expression in the Caribbean-
\ninfluenced motifs. Executed in pleasing watercolor washes, the
\nimages ranged from plantation life to island sports and images of
\npalm trees, cacti and sunny deck chairs. The woven tie reappeared
\nwith a strong display of contemporary looking stripes, checks,
\nand textured seersucker striping.<\/p>\n
Color was also used to enliven the more casual clothes of the
\ncollection. The coral island colors of the Caribbean, emerald
\ngreens, reds, blues and touches of yellow, were the inspiration
\nfor the bright checked cotton shirts and T-Shirts, teamed with
\ncrisp white Bermuda shorts and comfortable slip-ons. The easy
\npractical casual wear included T-shirts, shorts and jacket
\nensembles in coordinated color blocking. Less colorful
\ncombinations included a brown and cream nautical stripe teamed
\nwith cream trousers and a lightweight mocha jacket.<\/p>\n
The collection was presented by Peter Tilley, Alfred Dunhill's
\nDesign Manager. In addition to being in charge of creative
\ndevelopment he also functions as the company's design
\nspokesperson. Tilley has taken a special interest in fostering
\nthe creativity of young and upcoming English designers. He was
\nresponsible for the establishment of the company's design studio,
\nand for the introduction of more contemporary casual lines,
\nincluding the popular poloshirt business.<\/p>\n
Alfred Dunhill opened its first Asian boutique in 1966 in Hong
\nKong. It has since expanded to cover 14 Asia-Pacific markets,
\nincluding Indonesia, Singapore and Australia. In Indonesia itself
\nthere are two outlets, in Plaza Indonesia and the new, popular
\nPlaza Senayan.<\/p>\n
The Dunhill look is aimed at the successful businessman, the
\ncorporate executive aged about 35 years and upwards. The
\nclassical designs have retained their elegant English styling,
\nbut acquired a more contemporary feel with the new innovative
\nfabrics and cut. Without sacrificing style, it has introduced
\ncomfort and functionality, the three necessities of the modern
\nwardrobe.<\/p>",
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