Dongre hopes India can become a fashion mecca

Dongre hopes India can become a fashion mecca

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

The collections of Indian fashion designer Anita Dongre displayed
here recently were just what I had imagined they would be: rich
in detail and color.

What I did not expect was that the silhouettes were so modern
and came out so clean cut (blame it, if you will, on the Indian
movies and soaps that portray women in either traditional saris
or 80s-style outfits).

Rather than pure saris and shalvar kameez (traditional Indian
dress), Dongre goes with neat two-piece blouses and trousers, or
even evening gowns and jumpsuits, but with detail containing
Indian elements such as embroidery or beads.

With a career spanning 15 years and being one of India's top
designers, her trademark lies in the fusion of international or
Western silhouette with the soul of India.

"Various Western designers are influenced by the East. They
(the designers) always travel to the East for inspiration because
we have such a rich culture, rich colors and rich details.

"However, the women of today are really becoming global
dressers, which is a bit sad because they are dropping
traditional costumes. Being a designer, I combine both aspects.
My designs have this festive Indian connection but are very
comfortable. I specialize in fusing styles. I don't do very
traditional outfits," said the 38-year-old Bombay native.

Graduated from the fashion school at SNDT University, Dongre
set up her own company which designs and produces Western and
ethnic garments.

She has two lines: ANITA DONGRE and AND. The first one is the
couture label, which translates some forms of traditional Indian
techniques like batik, tie and dye, and vegetable dye prints into
contemporary silhouettes.

This line is retailed in leading stores across India and is
also supplied to stores in the UK, the Gulf, Singapore and
Canada.

Among the creations from the first line that she has brought
here was a beautiful long sleeve shirt with floral handmade
embroidery.

The embroidery, called Lucknowi Chikan, meaning a kind of
cloth wrought with needle work, comes from a place called
Lucknowi, located in the center of India.

"This type of embroidery can only be found and made there, and
is done by Muslim women only. They pass it down from generation
to generation. The women in the family usually did it in the
past. For one outfit, it can take around a month to get it done,"
Dongre said.

She uses both Indian and imported fabrics for her collections.
For the Chikan collection, Dongre uses crepe, georgette and
chiffon in soft, feminine colors and flowing designs, with the
delicate embroidery as the main focus.

"Accessories are also important as they make the look
complete. I like simple clothing that is heavy on accessories.
Again, the East is rich in crafts that have to be sustained," she
said.

The second brand, AND, meanwhile, has made Dongre the first
Indian designer to launch an accessible, ready-to-wear collection
of Western women's wear.

"In India, more women are working in offices, multinational
companies, and they prefer Western outfits. So, I offer them
clean and reasonable outfits. I also design denim and casual
lines," Dongre said, while showing some of the pictures of her
collection, which is sold nationwide in India.

It is her aim to make wearable and accessible designs, which
is the secret of her success.

"I don't want to be like those sensational designers who are
just good in fashion shows and then make a hype in media, but
people can't really wear their clothes. Selling is really
important. I like my clothes to be worn by people. That's why I
like Giorgio Armani, because he has this clean style and creates
wearable clothes with different lines. That's why he has survived
for so long," said the soft-spoken and friendly Dongre.

She is not, however, influenced by any particular Western
designer as she only refers to them to identify today's trends,
which are still determined by the four cities of fashion --
London, Paris, Milan and New York.

"Fashion now is really ruled by the West. I really hope that
in the near future, the East can take over. Because we are really
rich, you know," said Dongre, adding that she could not wait to
see the batik here.

The main obstacle for Eastern designers in penetrating the
West was their lack of marketing and financial capabilities.

"Western designers are brilliant at marketing and promotion,
beside being financially well-established. So far, only Japanese
designers are able to do it here," she said.

Dongre herself once tried to gain a foothold in the West after
she was invited two years ago to the CPD Dusseldorf, the largest
fashion fair in Germany, becoming the first Indian designer
invited to showcase her collection in the finale of the CPD
fashion show.

Despite the successful show, she was unable to penetrate the
Western market as it required an agent and finance, while she was
not ready for that.

So, for now, she is still based in her home country where she
said the fashion scene is now really happening.

"We have amazing, amazing talents. I really hope that one day,
in the near future hopefully, India can become one of the fashion
capitals of the world," Dongre said, smiling.