Cuban flair, some stabs in the dark for menswear

Syahmedi Dean, Contributor, Jakarta

As the modern man is fond of the sartorial mix 'n' match, whether it's a tuxedo jacket worn over a T-shirt, or a polo shirt and hipster jeans, several local designers set out to offer their trends for 2005.

A total of 15 designers featured their latest collections at Bliss Menara Jamsostek in Central Jakarta last week. Although the lighting was too subdued for a fashion show, it did nothing to dim the enthusiasm of the audience, all eager to see what may lie ahead for Jakarta's fashion-conscious men.

So, what styles were they offering? Was it something cool, or playing the fool? At the end of the night, it was a bit of both.

A standout was veteran designer Itang Yunasz, who presented a collection that was logical in appearance, presenting the casual wear that would have been donned by the suave and sophisticated gentleman during Havana's heyday, plus a touch of the modern street-look.

He also introduced his version of the famous Guayabera shirt from the country. With a classical cut, the shirt was loose in the style of the Guayabera -- ideal for the tropical climate -- and combined with trousers creased round the hips.

Itang added the street-look element with brightly colored trimming accents on certain parts, such as in the zipper and pocket areas. The classic fedora, as a head cover accessory, reinforced the image of the stylish modern male Cuban. Itang's collection, mostly in white, made use of comfortable cotton and linen fabrics.

Bali's Oka Diputra, meanwhile, attempted to offer a logical design but not at the expense of his creative freedom. He presented modest shirts in expensive fabrics and exquisite texture. His designs are intended to feel comfortable and stylish.

Oka always infuses his collection with a Japanese touch, and uses the sarong with his shirts.

Samuel Wattimena, who has been a presence on the fashion scene since the 1980s, created clean-cut jackets with a focal point on an accessory in the form of a necklace with a large metallic pendant. His jackets may be an alternative to the mainstream ones widely available today.

In the meantime, Jazz Pasay took great delight in his theme of "Pirates of the Caribbean", doing away with the ghoulish appearance of pirates and replacing it with a fun pop image. The white shirts usually associated with Captain Hook and his ilk were replaced by bright pink cotton ones.

The elements of frills and bandana were still there, forming a harmonious blend with the cool and solid black long jackets. Despite the theatrical nature of his presentation, each element of Jazz's designs could be worn separately.

His idea should serve as a model for other designers about how a novel idea can be properly accommodated without losing direction.

Unfortunately, the collections of other designers gave us more shock than sense.

Many fashion ideas introduced that evening that would never be likely to see the light of day as a trend in 2005. One designer featured a creation that seemed to ape the costume of an actor in a second-rate Myanmar action flick; there were various forms of caftans plus sarongs in colors that obscured whatever fashion message was intended.

There was even a suit in the style of a traditional men's garment of Central Africa: It was clear that no self-respecting, fashion-conscious man would don this clothing, even if it was labeled a "trend".

Another dubious creation was something like a tunic with a rigid A line silhouette with a superbig bow at the neck, reminiscent of the haute couture puffball design of Balenciaga in 1950. Was this really meant for a man?

Apparently so: Samuel Wattimena, the head of the organizing committee, reaffirmed that the target audience was the urban male.

In an era when style-conscious shows like Queer Eye for the Straight Guy and the specter of Joan Rivers hovering on the red carpet have become successful in the mainstreams, designers should be able to direct their fantasy and actualize it in fair competition. They only had to look to the audience, almost 90 percent male, whether wearing faded green denim by Dsquared or a blue stripey shirt, a black blazer, ripped jeans and superwhite sneakers.

They looked more stylish and cooler than the clothes on show that night; one seriously doubts they will be investing in many of the supposed trends.