Cuban flair, some stabs in the dark for menswear

Cuban flair, some stabs in the dark for menswear

Syahmedi Dean, Contributor, Jakarta

As the modern man is fond of the sartorial mix 'n' match, whether
it's a tuxedo jacket worn over a T-shirt, or a polo shirt and
hipster jeans, several local designers set out to offer their
trends for 2005.

A total of 15 designers featured their latest collections at
Bliss Menara Jamsostek in Central Jakarta last week. Although the
lighting was too subdued for a fashion show, it did nothing to
dim the enthusiasm of the audience, all eager to see what may lie
ahead for Jakarta's fashion-conscious men.

So, what styles were they offering? Was it something cool, or
playing the fool? At the end of the night, it was a bit of both.

A standout was veteran designer Itang Yunasz, who presented a
collection that was logical in appearance, presenting the casual
wear that would have been donned by the suave and sophisticated
gentleman during Havana's heyday, plus a touch of the modern
street-look.

He also introduced his version of the famous Guayabera shirt
from the country. With a classical cut, the shirt was loose in
the style of the Guayabera -- ideal for the tropical climate --
and combined with trousers creased round the hips.

Itang added the street-look element with brightly colored
trimming accents on certain parts, such as in the zipper and
pocket areas. The classic fedora, as a head cover accessory,
reinforced the image of the stylish modern male Cuban. Itang's
collection, mostly in white, made use of comfortable cotton and
linen fabrics.

Bali's Oka Diputra, meanwhile, attempted to offer a logical
design but not at the expense of his creative freedom. He
presented modest shirts in expensive fabrics and exquisite
texture. His designs are intended to feel comfortable and
stylish.

Oka always infuses his collection with a Japanese touch, and
uses the sarong with his shirts.

Samuel Wattimena, who has been a presence on the fashion scene
since the 1980s, created clean-cut jackets with a focal point on
an accessory in the form of a necklace with a large metallic
pendant. His jackets may be an alternative to the mainstream ones
widely available today.

In the meantime, Jazz Pasay took great delight in his theme of
"Pirates of the Caribbean", doing away with the ghoulish
appearance of pirates and replacing it with a fun pop image. The
white shirts usually associated with Captain Hook and his ilk
were replaced by bright pink cotton ones.

The elements of frills and bandana were still there, forming a
harmonious blend with the cool and solid black long jackets.
Despite the theatrical nature of his presentation, each element
of Jazz's designs could be worn separately.

His idea should serve as a model for other designers about how
a novel idea can be properly accommodated without losing
direction.

Unfortunately, the collections of other designers gave us more
shock than sense.

Many fashion ideas introduced that evening that would never be
likely to see the light of day as a trend in 2005. One designer
featured a creation that seemed to ape the costume of an actor in
a second-rate Myanmar action flick; there were various forms of
caftans plus sarongs in colors that obscured whatever fashion
message was intended.

There was even a suit in the style of a traditional men's
garment of Central Africa: It was clear that no self-respecting,
fashion-conscious man would don this clothing, even if it was
labeled a "trend".

Another dubious creation was something like a tunic with a
rigid A line silhouette with a superbig bow at the neck,
reminiscent of the haute couture puffball design of Balenciaga in
1950. Was this really meant for a man?

Apparently so: Samuel Wattimena, the head of the organizing
committee, reaffirmed that the target audience was the urban
male.

In an era when style-conscious shows like Queer Eye for the
Straight Guy and the specter of Joan Rivers hovering on the red
carpet have become successful in the mainstreams, designers
should be able to direct their fantasy and actualize it in fair
competition. They only had to look to the audience, almost 90
percent male, whether wearing faded green denim by Dsquared or a
blue stripey shirt, a black blazer, ripped jeans and superwhite
sneakers.

They looked more stylish and cooler than the clothes on show
that night; one seriously doubts they will be investing in many
of the supposed trends.