Cuban flair, some stabs in the dark for menswear<\/p>\n
Syahmedi Dean, Contributor, Jakarta<\/p>\n
As the modern man is fond of the sartorial mix 'n' match, whether
\nit's a tuxedo jacket worn over a T-shirt, or a polo shirt and
\nhipster jeans, several local designers set out to offer their
\ntrends for 2005.<\/p>\n
A total of 15 designers featured their latest collections at
\nBliss Menara Jamsostek in Central Jakarta last week. Although the
\nlighting was too subdued for a fashion show, it did nothing to
\ndim the enthusiasm of the audience, all eager to see what may lie
\nahead for Jakarta's fashion-conscious men.<\/p>\n
So, what styles were they offering? Was it something cool, or
\nplaying the fool? At the end of the night, it was a bit of both.<\/p>\n
A standout was veteran designer Itang Yunasz, who presented a
\ncollection that was logical in appearance, presenting the casual
\nwear that would have been donned by the suave and sophisticated
\ngentleman during Havana's heyday, plus a touch of the modern
\nstreet-look.<\/p>\n
He also introduced his version of the famous Guayabera shirt
\nfrom the country. With a classical cut, the shirt was loose in
\nthe style of the Guayabera -- ideal for the tropical climate --
\nand combined with trousers creased round the hips.<\/p>\n
Itang added the street-look element with brightly colored
\ntrimming accents on certain parts, such as in the zipper and
\npocket areas. The classic fedora, as a head cover accessory,
\nreinforced the image of the stylish modern male Cuban. Itang's
\ncollection, mostly in white, made use of comfortable cotton and
\nlinen fabrics.<\/p>\n
Bali's Oka Diputra, meanwhile, attempted to offer a logical
\ndesign but not at the expense of his creative freedom. He
\npresented modest shirts in expensive fabrics and exquisite
\ntexture. His designs are intended to feel comfortable and
\nstylish.<\/p>\n
Oka always infuses his collection with a Japanese touch, and
\nuses the sarong with his shirts.<\/p>\n
Samuel Wattimena, who has been a presence on the fashion scene
\nsince the 1980s, created clean-cut jackets with a focal point on
\nan accessory in the form of a necklace with a large metallic
\npendant. His jackets may be an alternative to the mainstream ones
\nwidely available today.<\/p>\n
In the meantime, Jazz Pasay took great delight in his theme of
\n\"Pirates of the Caribbean\", doing away with the ghoulish
\nappearance of pirates and replacing it with a fun pop image. The
\nwhite shirts usually associated with Captain Hook and his ilk
\nwere replaced by bright pink cotton ones.<\/p>\n
The elements of frills and bandana were still there, forming a
\nharmonious blend with the cool and solid black long jackets.
\nDespite the theatrical nature of his presentation, each element
\nof Jazz's designs could be worn separately.<\/p>\n
His idea should serve as a model for other designers about how
\na novel idea can be properly accommodated without losing
\ndirection.<\/p>\n
Unfortunately, the collections of other designers gave us more
\nshock than sense.<\/p>\n
Many fashion ideas introduced that evening that would never be
\nlikely to see the light of day as a trend in 2005. One designer
\nfeatured a creation that seemed to ape the costume of an actor in
\na second-rate Myanmar action flick; there were various forms of
\ncaftans plus sarongs in colors that obscured whatever fashion
\nmessage was intended.<\/p>\n
There was even a suit in the style of a traditional men's
\ngarment of Central Africa: It was clear that no self-respecting,
\nfashion-conscious man would don this clothing, even if it was
\nlabeled a \"trend\".<\/p>\n
Another dubious creation was something like a tunic with a
\nrigid A line silhouette with a superbig bow at the neck,
\nreminiscent of the haute couture puffball design of Balenciaga in
\n1950. Was this really meant for a man?<\/p>\n
Apparently so: Samuel Wattimena, the head of the organizing
\ncommittee, reaffirmed that the target audience was the urban
\nmale.<\/p>\n
In an era when style-conscious shows like Queer Eye for the
\nStraight Guy and the specter of Joan Rivers hovering on the red
\ncarpet have become successful in the mainstreams, designers
\nshould be able to direct their fantasy and actualize it in fair
\ncompetition. They only had to look to the audience, almost 90
\npercent male, whether wearing faded green denim by Dsquared or a
\nblue stripey shirt, a black blazer, ripped jeans and superwhite
\nsneakers.<\/p>\n
They looked more stylish and cooler than the clothes on show
\nthat night; one seriously doubts they will be investing in many
\nof the supposed trends.<\/p>",
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