Composting helps solve organic waste problems
Composting helps solve organic waste problems
JAKARTA (JP): Jakarta residents produce more than 25,000 cubic meters of waste everyday, 83 percent of which is organic waste.
Composting is one way to reduce the amount of waste sent to the landfill, and an equally good way to produce fertilizer for your garden.
Composting is the natural process of turning yard waste, fruit and vegetable trimmings and other organic materials into a black, humus-rich topsoil called compost.
Some of the benefits of compost are that it:
* helps plants utilize unavailable nutrients.
* acts as a storehouse of water, preventing soil erosion, and reduces water use.
* loosens heavy clay, allowing plants to breathe.
* serves as a top dressing to reduce compaction, lessen maintenance, and insulate roots.
* upgrades poor soil.
The City of Palo Alto, winner of the 1993 National Environmental Achievement Award for outstanding recycling, has issued the following guide on backyard composting and worm composting.
Backyard Composting:
Anyone with some extra yard space and a source of compostable materials can make high quality compost. Creating a composting system to suit your needs takes minimum efforts and requires only three essential steps:
1. Bin Construction. A compost bin that will best fit your needs can be constructed. Choose a level spot about three feet from a water source and preferably out of direct sunlight; clear the area of sod and grass.
A bin can be constructed with any combination of wood, wire, and concrete (see picture). When constructing a bin, be sure to leave enough space for air to reach the pile. Compost can also be made in open piles. However, compost bins keep piles neat and retain heat and moisture better.
2. Compost Materials. Collect the materials to be composted, generally consisting of the following:
* Yard waste, such as leaves, grass clippings, loose dirt and other coarse yard waste.
* Kitchen waste, such as fruit and vegetable trimmings, egg shells, coffee grounds with filters, tea bags, and fish leftovers.
* Other materials such as wool or cotton rags, sawdust, shredded newspapers, paper towels, and fireplace ashes can also be composted.
* To avoid attracting unwanted animals, DO NOT compost meats, dairy foods, fats, oil or grease. Also, to avoid disease pathogens, DO NOT compost dog or cat feces.
3. Compost Pile Maintenance. Start the pile with a layer of leaves, loose soil, grass clippings, or other coarse yard waste. Then build a layer of food waste. Alternate food waste with layers of soil, grass, or leaves until the pile is at least two feet, preferably three feet, high. Chop compostables as much as possible.
A good formula is 50 percent "browns" (dry plant material), 35 percent "greens" (grass clippings, kitchen waste), and 15 percent soil or finished compost. Foul odors should only occur when there is a lack of oxygen or too much wet green material and too little brown material. Odors can be alleviated by turning or poking the pile and mixing half green and half brown materials together or by adding alfalfa meal or clean cat litter to absorb the odors.
In dry weather, sprinkle water on the pile to keep moist, but don't get it too soggy. Turn the pile every few weeks with a pitchfork to circulate air and distribute moisture evenly. More frequent circulation will speed up the composting process. Don't be surprised by the heat of the pile, or if you see worms; both are part of the decomposition process. In about four to five months, your bin should produce rich compost, ready for use.
Worm composting:
Worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, is one of the most natural ways to break down kitchen waste and other household materials.
Earthworms eat non-living organic matters and product castings: a dense, dark crumblike compost that is a superior soil additive and fertilizer. Worms greatly increase the speed at which compostable materials will degrade into its useful form.
Worm composting requires minimum efforts and is fun, and an efficient way of composting kitchen scraps. It can also be done indoors and outdoors, and is perfect for those who only have small space.
The simplicity of worm composting is one of its greatest attributes. Only a few things are needed to start the process, and if it is properly maintained, the process will last indefinitely.
1. Worms. Red worms or red wigglers are best suited for composting since they consume more than their own weight on a daily basis. They can be purchased at many garden supply stores. Between 500 and 1,000 worms is a good number to start with. Once inside the bin, they will multiply quickly.
2. Worm Bins. Almost any size wooden or plastic box will do. The best size is about 2 x 4 feet wide and about 8 to 16 inches deep. Make sure it is properly ventilated and has a provision for drainage. Drain holes should be no larger than 1/4 inch. A cover for the bin should be used to keep rodents out. If the worm box is to set on the ground in the dirt, a bottom is not necessary. A box with a bottom can also be used and kept in the basement or on a shady porch.
Once the bin has been prepared, place it in a location with an approximate temperature of 55-75 degrees Fahrenheit (13-24 degrees Celsius). Fill bin with dirt or compost that is moist, but not soggy. Also add some or all of the following "bedding" materials: shredded newspapers, leaves, manure, peat moss, egg shells, ground limestone, and soil.
3. Worm Feeding. After the worms have settled in, start feeding them with kitchen scraps every few weeks. Save up coffee grounds, fruit peelings, vegetable scraps, and well crushed egg shells, as these are the most desirable substances for worm food. Never feed them meat, bones or dairy products to avoid attracting unwanted animals. And never feed them dog or cat feces due to possible disease pathogens. Bury the scraps in different parts of the box each time. Be sure the dirt stays moist. If necessary, sprinkle with water.
4. Retrieving the castings. The worms will eat the materials four to six times, and produce castings. After the castings have reached a desired texture, they can be harvested by simply pushing the contents of the bin to one side and adding the new materials to be composted to the other side. After about three weeks, the worms will leave the finished side and begin eating the new food. The castings can then be removed for use in gardening.
To use castings in the garden, mix one part castings with four parts peat moss, compost, or other mulch and mix into the top layer of soil. Castings can also be added to potted plants.
Worms breed rapidly, so you may want to occasionally give a hundred or so to a neighbor or friend. (sim)