Composting helps solve organic waste problems<\/p>\n
JAKARTA (JP): Jakarta residents produce more than 25,000 cubic
\nmeters of waste everyday, 83 percent of which is organic waste.<\/p>\n
Composting is one way to reduce the amount of waste sent to
\nthe landfill, and an equally good way to produce fertilizer for
\nyour garden.<\/p>\n
Composting is the natural process of turning yard waste, fruit
\nand vegetable trimmings and other organic materials into a black,
\nhumus-rich topsoil called compost.<\/p>\n
Some of the benefits of compost are that it:<\/p>\n
* helps plants utilize unavailable nutrients.<\/p>\n
* acts as a storehouse of water, preventing soil erosion, and
\nreduces water use.<\/p>\n
* loosens heavy clay, allowing plants to breathe.<\/p>\n
* serves as a top dressing to reduce compaction, lessen
\nmaintenance, and insulate roots.<\/p>\n
* upgrades poor soil.<\/p>\n
The City of Palo Alto, winner of the 1993 National
\nEnvironmental Achievement Award for outstanding recycling, has
\nissued the following guide on backyard composting and worm
\ncomposting.<\/p>\n
Backyard Composting:<\/p>\n
Anyone with some extra yard space and a source of compostable
\nmaterials can make high quality compost. Creating a composting
\nsystem to suit your needs takes minimum efforts and requires only
\nthree essential steps:<\/p>\n
1. Bin Construction. A compost bin that will best fit your
\nneeds can be constructed. Choose a level spot about three feet
\nfrom a water source and preferably out of direct sunlight; clear
\nthe area of sod and grass.<\/p>\n
A bin can be constructed with any combination of wood, wire,
\nand concrete (see picture). When constructing a bin, be sure to
\nleave enough space for air to reach the pile. Compost can also be
\nmade in open piles. However, compost bins keep piles neat and
\nretain heat and moisture better.<\/p>\n
2. Compost Materials. Collect the materials to be composted,
\ngenerally consisting of the following:<\/p>\n
* Yard waste, such as leaves, grass clippings, loose dirt and
\nother coarse yard waste.<\/p>\n
* Kitchen waste, such as fruit and vegetable trimmings, egg
\nshells, coffee grounds with filters, tea bags, and fish
\nleftovers.<\/p>\n
* Other materials such as wool or cotton rags, sawdust,
\nshredded newspapers, paper towels, and fireplace ashes can also
\nbe composted.<\/p>\n
* To avoid attracting unwanted animals, DO NOT compost meats,
\ndairy foods, fats, oil or grease. Also, to avoid disease
\npathogens, DO NOT compost dog or cat feces.<\/p>\n
3. Compost Pile Maintenance. Start the pile with a layer of
\nleaves, loose soil, grass clippings, or other coarse yard waste.
\nThen build a layer of food waste. Alternate food waste with
\nlayers of soil, grass, or leaves until the pile is at least two
\nfeet, preferably three feet, high. Chop compostables as much as
\npossible.<\/p>\n
A good formula is 50 percent \"browns\" (dry plant material), 35
\npercent \"greens\" (grass clippings, kitchen waste), and 15 percent
\nsoil or finished compost. Foul odors should only occur when there
\nis a lack of oxygen or too much wet green material and too little
\nbrown material. Odors can be alleviated by turning or poking the
\npile and mixing half green and half brown materials together or
\nby adding alfalfa meal or clean cat litter to absorb the odors.<\/p>\n
In dry weather, sprinkle water on the pile to keep moist, but
\ndon't get it too soggy. Turn the pile every few weeks with a
\npitchfork to circulate air and distribute moisture evenly. More
\nfrequent circulation will speed up the composting process. Don't
\nbe surprised by the heat of the pile, or if you see worms; both
\nare part of the decomposition process. In about four to five
\nmonths, your bin should produce rich compost, ready for use.<\/p>\n
Worm composting:<\/p>\n
Worm composting, also known as vermicomposting, is one of the
\nmost natural ways to break down kitchen waste and other household
\nmaterials.<\/p>\n
Earthworms eat non-living organic matters and product
\ncastings: a dense, dark crumblike compost that is a superior soil
\nadditive and fertilizer. Worms greatly increase the speed at
\nwhich compostable materials will degrade into its useful form.<\/p>\n
Worm composting requires minimum efforts and is fun, and an
\nefficient way of composting kitchen scraps. It can also be done
\nindoors and outdoors, and is perfect for those who only have
\nsmall space.<\/p>\n
The simplicity of worm composting is one of its greatest
\nattributes. Only a few things are needed to start the process,
\nand if it is properly maintained, the process will last
\nindefinitely.<\/p>\n
1. Worms. Red worms or red wigglers are best suited for
\ncomposting since they consume more than their own weight on a
\ndaily basis. They can be purchased at many garden supply stores.
\nBetween 500 and 1,000 worms is a good number to start with. Once
\ninside the bin, they will multiply quickly.<\/p>\n
2. Worm Bins. Almost any size wooden or plastic box will do.
\nThe best size is about 2 x 4 feet wide and about 8 to 16 inches
\ndeep. Make sure it is properly ventilated and has a provision for
\ndrainage. Drain holes should be no larger than 1\/4 inch. A cover
\nfor the bin should be used to keep rodents out. If the worm box
\nis to set on the ground in the dirt, a bottom is not necessary. A
\nbox with a bottom can also be used and kept in the basement or on
\na shady porch.<\/p>\n
Once the bin has been prepared, place it in a location with an
\napproximate temperature of 55-75 degrees Fahrenheit (13-24
\ndegrees Celsius). Fill bin with dirt or compost that is moist,
\nbut not soggy. Also add some or all of the following \"bedding\"
\nmaterials: shredded newspapers, leaves, manure, peat moss, egg
\nshells, ground limestone, and soil.<\/p>\n
3. Worm Feeding. After the worms have settled in, start
\nfeeding them with kitchen scraps every few weeks. Save up coffee
\ngrounds, fruit peelings, vegetable scraps, and well crushed egg
\nshells, as these are the most desirable substances for worm food.
\nNever feed them meat, bones or dairy products to avoid attracting
\nunwanted animals. And never feed them dog or cat feces due to
\npossible disease pathogens. Bury the scraps in different parts of
\nthe box each time. Be sure the dirt stays moist. If necessary,
\nsprinkle with water.<\/p>\n
4. Retrieving the castings. The worms will eat the materials
\nfour to six times, and produce castings. After the castings have
\nreached a desired texture, they can be harvested by simply
\npushing the contents of the bin to one side and adding the new
\nmaterials to be composted to the other side. After about three
\nweeks, the worms will leave the finished side and begin eating
\nthe new food. The castings can then be removed for use in
\ngardening.<\/p>\n
To use castings in the garden, mix one part castings with four
\nparts peat moss, compost, or other mulch and mix into the top
\nlayer of soil. Castings can also be added to potted plants.<\/p>\n
Worms breed rapidly, so you may want to occasionally give a
\nhundred or so to a neighbor or friend. (sim)<\/p>",
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