Wed, 24 Jan 2001

Charcoal-cooked treats beckon at Bumen Jaya

JAKARTA (JP): Bumen Jaya, so named because it was reportedly started by people from Kebumen, Central Java, is famed for its mutton fried rice and boiled noodles. Diners say the secret is that the food is cooked on a traditional stove using charcoal instead of gas or kerosene.

Bumen Jaya, Jl. Pejompongan Raya No. 8, Central Jakarta (near the Palmerah railway station and behind the BPK building).

Open: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

What's It Got: Nasi goreng kambing (mutton fried rice) and other mutton dishes such as sate kambing (mutton satay), gulai kambing (mutton curry) and tongseng (mutton soup in a soybean sauce).

For chicken eaters, there is chicken satay, chicken fried rice and various other fried parts of the chicken -- liver, wings, head and thigh.

Fried or boiled noodles served with an egg and slices of chicken are also available. Steak and European dishes are not to be found here, and vegetarians will find slim pickings.

On the one-page menu there are also soft drinks and cold beverages such as coconut drinks and iced tea, as well as hot tea and coffee. No beer.

Price Points: Reasonable and affordable for what you get. A plate of spiced mutton fried rice costs Rp 9,000. Ten sticks of mutton satay served with rice is Rp 14,000 (the most expensive item on the menu), chicken and rice is Rp 10,000, a heaping portion of noodles and chicken fried rice goes for Rp 8,000.

Looks: Not the most attractive warung (sidewalk eatery) despite its reputation, but clean enough for its ilk, with wooden tables, chairs and floor. No air-conditioning, but there are two ceiling fans. Nonuniformed waiters provide efficient service. And it's quick; 10 pieces of fried Sumedang tofu (Rp 3,500) come in a minute, while your main order is cooked and served in no more than 10 minutes.

Popular with...: Workers from private and state-owned companies along Jl. Gatot Subroto, the Slipi flyover and residents in the surrounding Bendungan Hilir and Palmerah areas. Also reportedly favored by some celebrities.

Taste Factor: The fried rice is not too oily, but the eatery is recommended for the delicious Javanese boiled noodles. But the mutton satay, soup and chicken satay have a standard, unexceptional taste.

Minus Points: Its "parking area" on the side of busy Jl. Pejompongan Raya is limited and causes traffic jams. Guests also have to pass by the smoky cooking area and through a narrow entrance before reaching the dining room. Smoke blowing in from the cooking area can be a problem, too; smoke really does get in your eyes at Bumen Jaya. (Sri Ramadani)