Biyan: Floral designs still in vogue
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
Romanticism, as a theme in fashion, had already started a year ago and will likely peak in the middle of this year. So, seeing ruffles, floral designs and all the detail that derived from the early 20th century, becomes a bit boring.
Designer Biyan Wanaatmadja, however, does not seem to care whether the trend will soon vanish or not.
The 115 sets of clothing presented at a recent fashion show were all about romance and femininity, in line with Biyan's trademark ultrafeminine style.
"The trend will not vanish for me because my style has always been romantic. It's my trademark. Besides, despite the trend, there are always women who like that kind of style," Biyan said after the show.
Trendy or not, however, the collection presented at the second anniversary of Harper's Bazaar fashion magazine, was truly excellent.
It reflected the spirit of femininity without being excessive. Yet, the style was still elegant, intimate, modern and dynamic, although in a way fragile given the nude color and light fabric.
The inspiration came from the past, from the end of the 18th century and the early 20th century.
"Because everything in those eras enriched life. It was full of detail and people made things carefully and thoroughly. Whereas now, everything is about deadlines and targets. Living in the fast lane makes people like to simplify things. It makes the soul of craftsmanship disappear," Biyan said.
Biyan's new collection, titled "Life as Romance" consists of A-line or full skirts, fitted jackets, peasants blouse, pants, tops and dresses.
The clothes were dominated by soft colors: white, camel, blush and pale green.
The fabrics range from the light and fragile, like chiffon, silk, lace and ribbons, to velvet silk, linen, suede and leather.
Most of the lines follow the curves of women's bodies. Lingerie-like long dresses with spaghetti straps also exist.
But straight volumes also appear, as well as high waist, baby- doll like dresses.
Layers and pleads appear on both tops or skirts, which Biyan said was aimed at giving freedom to move.
Ruffles and lace are the most exposed details.
The femininity was also accentuated in the form of floral motifs, whether it is embroidered and also print.
Large roses -- embroidered and printed, appear on jackets and coats, and also dresses. Another motif was an embroidered butterfly.
Pieces of geometrical cotton papers with an eyelet texture could be seen arranged on the clothes, giving the impression of frills.
Beads, coins, pearls and paillettes were sewn on the clothes, adding a glittering and glamorous effect.
As usual, Biyan incorporated elements of the East in his designs. One of them is chrysanthemum flowers which were embroidered at the edge and was cut out in the middle.
Here in this country, it is commonly called kerancang embroidery. The technique can be found, for example, in Bali.
Other elements used was the floral motifs punched on light suede.
"The idea came from wayang kulit (leather puppet). But I don't want to literally take the whole element of it. As for the fabric, since it's a tropical country, I chose light suede," Biyan said.
The punch technic was also applied on bags and shoes accompanying the collections.
It took Biyan up to seven months to prepare the collection with those rich details.
"We have the ability here in this country. With so many elements that we can take. That's the least I can do," he said.
The collection, Biyan's first in the past two years, was a proof that he still secure his position as top designer in this country.