Biyan: Floral designs still in vogue<\/p>\n
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta<\/p>\n
Romanticism, as a theme in fashion, had already started a year
\nago and will likely peak in the middle of this year. So, seeing
\nruffles, floral designs and all the detail that derived from the
\nearly 20th century, becomes a bit boring.<\/p>\n
Designer Biyan Wanaatmadja, however, does not seem to care
\nwhether the trend will soon vanish or not.<\/p>\n
The 115 sets of clothing presented at a recent fashion show
\nwere all about romance and femininity, in line with Biyan's
\ntrademark ultrafeminine style.<\/p>\n
"The trend will not vanish for me because my style has always
\nbeen romantic. It's my trademark. Besides, despite the trend,
\nthere are always women who like that kind of style," Biyan said
\nafter the show.<\/p>\n
Trendy or not, however, the collection presented at the second
\nanniversary of Harper's Bazaar fashion magazine, was truly
\nexcellent.<\/p>\n
It reflected the spirit of femininity without being excessive.
\nYet, the style was still elegant, intimate, modern and dynamic,
\nalthough in a way fragile given the nude color and light fabric.<\/p>\n
The inspiration came from the past, from the end of the 18th
\ncentury and the early 20th century.<\/p>\n
"Because everything in those eras enriched life. It was full
\nof detail and people made things carefully and thoroughly.
\nWhereas now, everything is about deadlines and targets. Living in
\nthe fast lane makes people like to simplify things. It makes the
\nsoul of craftsmanship disappear," Biyan said.<\/p>\n
Biyan's new collection, titled "Life as Romance" consists of
\nA-line or full skirts, fitted jackets, peasants blouse, pants,
\ntops and dresses.<\/p>\n
The clothes were dominated by soft colors: white, camel, blush
\nand pale green.<\/p>\n
The fabrics range from the light and fragile, like chiffon,
\nsilk, lace and ribbons, to velvet silk, linen, suede and leather.<\/p>\n
Most of the lines follow the curves of women's bodies.
\nLingerie-like long dresses with spaghetti straps also exist.<\/p>\n
But straight volumes also appear, as well as high waist, baby-
\ndoll like dresses.<\/p>\n
Layers and pleads appear on both tops or skirts, which Biyan
\nsaid was aimed at giving freedom to move.<\/p>\n
Ruffles and lace are the most exposed details.<\/p>\n
The femininity was also accentuated in the form of floral
\nmotifs, whether it is embroidered and also print.<\/p>\n
Large roses -- embroidered and printed, appear on jackets and
\ncoats, and also dresses. Another motif was an embroidered
\nbutterfly.<\/p>\n
Pieces of geometrical cotton papers with an eyelet texture
\ncould be seen arranged on the clothes, giving the impression of
\nfrills.<\/p>\n
Beads, coins, pearls and paillettes were sewn on the clothes,
\nadding a glittering and glamorous effect.<\/p>\n
As usual, Biyan incorporated elements of the East in his
\ndesigns. One of them is chrysanthemum flowers which were
\nembroidered at the edge and was cut out in the middle.<\/p>\n
Here in this country, it is commonly called kerancang
\nembroidery. The technique can be found, for example, in Bali.<\/p>\n
Other elements used was the floral motifs punched on light
\nsuede.<\/p>\n
"The idea came from wayang kulit (leather puppet). But I don't
\nwant to literally take the whole element of it. As for the
\nfabric, since it's a tropical country, I chose light suede,"
\nBiyan said.<\/p>\n
The punch technic was also applied on bags and shoes
\naccompanying the collections.<\/p>\n
It took Biyan up to seven months to prepare the collection
\nwith those rich details.<\/p>\n
"We have the ability here in this country. With so many
\nelements that we can take. That's the least I can do," he said.<\/p>\n
The collection, Biyan's first in the past two years, was a
\nproof that he still secure his position as top designer in this
\ncountry.<\/p>",
"url": "https:\/\/jawawa.id\/newsitem\/biyan-floral-designs-still-in-vogue-1447893297",
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