Bazaars a melting pot of culture and cuisine
Bazaars a melting pot of culture and cuisine
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Mehru Jaffer
Contributor
Kuala Lumpur
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Malaysia has been multicultural for centuries. The evidence of
this is best reflected in the country's colorful bazaars, which
line every neighborhood throughout the year. The origin of the
wares found in these street shops can be traced back to different
corners of the world.
But the most popular of all bazaars are those held during the
holy month of Ramadhan when pavements everywhere sprout gigantic
umbrellas in all the colors of the rainbow. Away from the
sweltering heat of the equatorial sun, and under the shade of the
multihued canopies, are found piles of clothes, footwear,
cosmetics and sweet-smelling perfumes bottled in decanters.
Muslims browse these bazaars all day long for gifts to be
showered on each other at Idul Fitri, the festival that
celebrates the end of the fasting month of Ramadhan.
The most festive of all areas in Kuala Lumpur these days is
Jl. Masjid India where sidewalk artists and petty traders are
parked for miles. This is a crowded street opposite a mosque
built by Indian immigrants decades ago in an architectural style
that is similar to that of the Taj Mahal.
The quaint sights and sounds of the street can only be
believed after a visit to this area. Even the smell is different
in this part of town as the smoke from incense sticks has mingled
for more than a century with the spices, textiles delivered fresh
from the factory and the body odor of visitors from different
ethnic groups.
It is not unusual to come across a mysterious fortune-teller's
stall, which is invariably decorated with numerous charts and
intriguing mathematical patterns to find a long queue
of clients waiting for their turn to be told their prophecy.
And once they have made sure what the immediate future may
have in store for them, Malaysians proceed to pick up snacks for
breaking the fast at each sunset from the open air bazaars that
display the most aromatic meals to be found anywhere in the
world.
Watching Malaysians cook and eat with the gusto that they do,
many feel that the capital city of Kuala Lumpur is not just a
meeting point of two rivers but of different facets of life
itself. Often the city is likened to a rojak, a delicious salad
that can contain vegetables, prawns, fish, chilies, fruits and
nuts topped with a tangy sauce.
Malaysians learned to eat so well from the diverse crowd of
people who have been attracted to the coastal towns along the
peninsula since times long forgotten.
It is suspected that there was just rice and fish at first.
This simple meal was later moistened with coconut milk. Much
later multiple flavors were added and a host of seasonings such
as blachan (shrimp paste). Now it is taken for granted that black
pepper, ginger, turmeric, shallots, lemon grass and tamarind will
be thrown into many a dish in different combinations.
The masters of the art of spice blending are said to be the
incredible Nyonya who are not just housewives, as the word in the
local language implies, but Malay women married to Chinese
husbands. Nyonya are said to have revolutionized not only their
kitchen but also that of the entire country. Today, the food
cooked by Nyonya is considered to be in a class of its own.