Bali's Nyepi festivities likely to be toned down

By Putu Wirata

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The series of Nyepi festivities to be held today in Bali seem to be a subdued version of those of former years. In past years, the atmosphere of Nyepi, an annual Balinese Hindu event, could be felt in the villages around Denpasar, Kuta, Sanur, Ubud and other towns. Dwellers in hamlets contributing money and strength, paraded with giant dolls known as ogoh-ogoh, towering impersonations of good and bad meddling in people's lives.

On pengerupukan day, which falls on Tilem Kesanga (on the ninth month of the Saka calendar), ogoh-ogoh are paraded around towns and villages, usually drawing hordes of tourists. Guides charge tourists between Rp 20,000 (US$8.30) and Rp 50,000, including snacks, a seat and transportation.

Ogoh-ogoh were originally made for use at Pengerupukan rituals aimed at chasing evil spirits away from nature, so that they would no longer be disturbing factors in life.

The rituals consist of exorcising evil forces in nature (bhuta kala) in the form of dispensing various amounts of money in the ninth month.

When Ida Bagus Mantra became governor of Bali, he deftly responded to the creative sense of the Hindu community, which spontaneously supported the idea of making huge ondel-ondel dolls to be paraded around villages.

After the pandemonium of tawur kesanga on Nyepi day, all towns and villages in Bali retire in a tomblike silence. On this day, the entire Hindu community -- and other communities with a great tolerance for other religions -- commence the Catur Beratha. These are four rituals which should be adhered to -- Amati Karya (no work), Amati Geni (no fire), Amati Lelungan (no traveling) and Amati Lelanguan (no entertainment).

Bali island then normally turns into a serene place, where no one is seen on the roads, there is no traffic, and the evening descends to a pitch dark as power is not turned on. There is normally no music on the day. And except for certain places like hospitals, funeral homes, families with babies, etc., where electric light and fire lighting is necessary, the rest of the island is in darkness.

The odd thing is that the Badung administration usually issues transportation permits to a number of travel agents to transport tourists from Ngurah Rai Airport. These transportation permits are often abused when travel agents take their customers on sightseeing tours outside the permitted hotel-airport route, just to give visitors a feel of Nyepi.

In 1997, the government seems to be exorcising greater care because areas, full of people drawn to ogoh-ogoh on the roads, are considered riot prone. At pengerupukan rites in past years, several incidents happened among ogoh-ogoh paraders. Homes were stoned for no particular reason. When someone did not get on with a certain village authority, and the person was not liked by the villagers either, the situation could worsen further into disaster and destruction.

The situation this year seems to be insecure, with the general election just around the corner. Fearing more riots, a number of regents in Bali have hurriedly proclaimed a ban on ogoh-ogoh and pengerupukan on April 8, 1997. Several regents, like regents from Buleleng and Jembrana, issued a ban in past years.

Will the ban on ogoh-ogoh parades not undermine the meaning of Nyepi in 1997? Not at all. Ogoh-ogoh are only an expression of the Hindu community. But combined with Nyepi festivities, it has taken on a sacred nuance. It is not necessary to make ogoh-ogoh, said Ketut Wiana, deputy chairman of the Indonesian Parisada Hindu Dharma center.

Putu Suasta, 36, onetime Cornell University student, and observer of Balinese culture, thinks this year's ban on ogoh-ogoh is understandable.

"It is the ultimate potential of conflicts because of the approaching general election," said Putu. Village conflicts erupting several times even before the general election became a topic has been a worry. There was the burning of a plantation and home in the Kayubihi-Bangli village, riots in Gulingan-Mengwi village, riots in Subagan-Karangasem village, the burning of the Gopala josh factory in Batungsel-Pupuan village, and so on.

"Psychological tension is building before the election and people are emotional, easily excited," explained Putu Suasta. However, amid growing public tendency for religious tolerance, another trend has emerged over the years: staying at hotels on Nyepi day. A number of hotels are offering reasonable Nyepi holiday packages. Bali Dynasty Resort in Kuta, for instance, is selling ogoh-ogoh packages at US$25 per night, including breakfast, despite the existence of the ban.

Many people opt for overnight stays in hotels to avoid the quietness of Nyepi. "I'm only checking the hotel out, I have been given a voucher," said a reporter whose choice was a five-star hotel at Nusa Dua during last year's Nyepi. He stayed the night while writing a report on how hotel guests coped with Nyepi and the absence of sightseeing trips.

"They seemed to be enjoying the serenity, despite there being no music, fires or trips. But there was no restriction on food or drinks," said the reporter.