Bali's Nyepi festivities likely to be toned down<\/p>\n
By Putu Wirata<\/p>\n
DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The series of Nyepi festivities to be
\nheld today in Bali seem to be a subdued version of those of
\nformer years. In past years, the atmosphere of Nyepi, an annual
\nBalinese Hindu event, could be felt in the villages around
\nDenpasar, Kuta, Sanur, Ubud and other towns. Dwellers in hamlets
\ncontributing money and strength, paraded with giant dolls known
\nas ogoh-ogoh, towering impersonations of good and bad meddling in
\npeople's lives.<\/p>\n
On pengerupukan day, which falls on Tilem Kesanga (on the
\nninth month of the Saka calendar), ogoh-ogoh are paraded around
\ntowns and villages, usually drawing hordes of tourists. Guides
\ncharge tourists between Rp 20,000 (US$8.30) and Rp 50,000,
\nincluding snacks, a seat and transportation.<\/p>\n
Ogoh-ogoh were originally made for use at Pengerupukan rituals
\naimed at chasing evil spirits away from nature, so that they
\nwould no longer be disturbing factors in life.<\/p>\n
The rituals consist of exorcising evil forces in nature (bhuta
\nkala) in the form of dispensing various amounts of money in the
\nninth month.<\/p>\n
When Ida Bagus Mantra became governor of Bali, he deftly
\nresponded to the creative sense of the Hindu community, which
\nspontaneously supported the idea of making huge ondel-ondel dolls
\nto be paraded around villages.<\/p>\n
After the pandemonium of tawur kesanga on Nyepi day, all towns
\nand villages in Bali retire in a tomblike silence. On this day,
\nthe entire Hindu community -- and other communities with a great
\ntolerance for other religions -- commence the Catur Beratha.
\nThese are four rituals which should be adhered to -- Amati Karya
\n(no work), Amati Geni (no fire), Amati Lelungan (no traveling)
\nand Amati Lelanguan (no entertainment).<\/p>\n
Bali island then normally turns into a serene place, where no
\none is seen on the roads, there is no traffic, and the evening
\ndescends to a pitch dark as power is not turned on. There is
\nnormally no music on the day. And except for certain places like
\nhospitals, funeral homes, families with babies, etc., where
\nelectric light and fire lighting is necessary, the rest of the
\nisland is in darkness.<\/p>\n
The odd thing is that the Badung administration usually issues
\ntransportation permits to a number of travel agents to transport
\ntourists from Ngurah Rai Airport. These transportation permits
\nare often abused when travel agents take their customers on
\nsightseeing tours outside the permitted hotel-airport route, just
\nto give visitors a feel of Nyepi.<\/p>\n
In 1997, the government seems to be exorcising greater care
\nbecause areas, full of people drawn to ogoh-ogoh on the roads,
\nare considered riot prone. At pengerupukan rites in past years,
\nseveral incidents happened among ogoh-ogoh paraders. Homes were
\nstoned for no particular reason. When someone did not get on with
\na certain village authority, and the person was not liked by the
\nvillagers either, the situation could worsen further into
\ndisaster and destruction.<\/p>\n
The situation this year seems to be insecure, with the general
\nelection just around the corner. Fearing more riots, a number of
\nregents in Bali have hurriedly proclaimed a ban on ogoh-ogoh and
\npengerupukan on April 8, 1997. Several regents, like regents from
\nBuleleng and Jembrana, issued a ban in past years.<\/p>\n
Will the ban on ogoh-ogoh parades not undermine the meaning of
\nNyepi in 1997? Not at all. Ogoh-ogoh are only an expression of
\nthe Hindu community. But combined with Nyepi festivities, it has
\ntaken on a sacred nuance. It is not necessary to make ogoh-ogoh,
\nsaid Ketut Wiana, deputy chairman of the Indonesian Parisada
\nHindu Dharma center.<\/p>\n
Putu Suasta, 36, onetime Cornell University student, and
\nobserver of Balinese culture, thinks this year's ban on ogoh-ogoh
\nis understandable.<\/p>\n
\"It is the ultimate potential of conflicts because of the
\napproaching general election,\" said Putu. Village conflicts
\nerupting several times even before the general election became a
\ntopic has been a worry. There was the burning of a plantation and
\nhome in the Kayubihi-Bangli village, riots in Gulingan-Mengwi
\nvillage, riots in Subagan-Karangasem village, the burning of the
\nGopala josh factory in Batungsel-Pupuan village, and so on.<\/p>\n
\"Psychological tension is building before the election and
\npeople are emotional, easily excited,\" explained Putu Suasta.
\nHowever, amid growing public tendency for religious tolerance,
\nanother trend has emerged over the years: staying at hotels on
\nNyepi day. A number of hotels are offering reasonable Nyepi
\nholiday packages. Bali Dynasty Resort in Kuta, for instance, is
\nselling ogoh-ogoh packages at US$25 per night, including
\nbreakfast, despite the existence of the ban.<\/p>\n
Many people opt for overnight stays in hotels to avoid the
\nquietness of Nyepi. \"I'm only checking the hotel out, I have been
\ngiven a voucher,\" said a reporter whose choice was a five-star
\nhotel at Nusa Dua during last year's Nyepi. He stayed the night
\nwhile writing a report on how hotel guests coped with Nyepi and
\nthe absence of sightseeing trips.<\/p>\n
\"They seemed to be enjoying the serenity, despite there being
\nno music, fires or trips. But there was no restriction on food or
\ndrinks,\" said the reporter.<\/p>",
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