A midsummer night's dream at Mt. Gede-Pangrango

By Sona Vora Blessing

CIBODAS, West Java (JP): When we left Switzerland for an assignment in Indonesia, one of the things high on our checklist of things to do was trekking up a volcano.

Indonesia is graced with many beautiful volcanoes, so which was our first going to be? Since we didn't have the luxury of more than a weekend at our disposal, we chose to visit the twin volcanoes of Mt. Gede and Mt. Pangrango that lie a little beyond Bogor, a few hours from Jakarta. We drove there; but a bus ride would have been as feasible.

Since we left on late Saturday afternoon, we were naturally caught in the ubiquitous bumper to bumper traffic despite being on the toll road that led to Bogor. But we were prepared for it and made the most of it. We jumped out of our car, walked along the row of cars, and enjoyed freshly roasted peanuts that the street vendors vied to sell us. By sunset we were soaking in the picturesque landscape of pretty paddy fields, banana and cassava plantations. Luckily, beyond Bogor the traffic eased.

Although it was already dark, we enjoyed the drive through the well-lit 1,500 meter-high Puncak pass. It was a narrow winding road, which passed through small, lively, disco-dotted resort towns and tea plantations. And at Cibodas, over the Puncak Pass, was a beautiful high altitude extension of the Bogor Botanical gardens. Incidentally the turn-off to Cibodas is on the Bogor Bandung highway, a few kilometers west of Cipanas, and the gardens are just five kilometers off the main road.

This area does seem more difficult to reach than the resort strip along the Puncak Highway, but it is reachable by bus. Even so, it draws fewer visitors. Just a short drive away lies Cibodas botanical gardens, which are surrounded by thick tropical jungle which stretches to the summits of Mt. Gede and Mt. Pangrango. The 125-hectare gardens were originally planted in 1862, and mark the entrance to the Gede-Pangrango National Park.

The Park's trail passes Telaga Biru, a blue-green lake and after one hour the Cibeurum Falls can be seen. Double the walk time and you arrive at another waterfall where the water drops deep into a gorge. Many visitors seem content to make that their eventual destination. It is very refreshing, and a great picnic spot. But over the weekend it was crowded.

However we were determined to make it to the top, and in time for sunrise. So we chose to trek up the trail by night. The 10-km hike up to the peak of the 2958-meter peak of the volcanically active Mt. Gede takes at least 10 hours there and back. Although the trail is well defined, and there are signboards that give direction, it is a tough and steep climb. So proper hiking shoes are in order. Although the temperature was just fresh for us, we passed many smiling Indonesians, who were camping out all bundled up in their woolies. Apparently night temperatures are known to dip to five degrees Celsius.

What is heartening is that night walking besides being adventurous is safe here. Not only do you meet others trekking up, but you will be warmly welcomed to join them for some hot simmering noodles. Only, one shouldn't forget to carry along enough spare batteries for a big hand held flashlight! Another fascination of trudging up by night, is the opportunity to see the wonderful carpet of stars in the sky. If you like stargazing, it's sheer magic! Although the dense foliage did not allow this view for most of the trail, when it did clear we spotted Venus and Mars!

If you don't particularly enjoy stargazing, and aren't a creature of the night, the trek by day is as comfortable and rewarding. It allows a leisurely pace that lets you appreciate the thick, lush, green, tropical flora in the abundantly endowed jungle. There's every conceivable type of palm tree, and many fascinating creepers and plants can be seen. There is even a special trail for bird watchers. But if you are alert and lucky, you can see some animals in their natural habitat. We spotted some shy chipmunks burrowing for food. If you do opt to trek by day and camp on the summit at night, do not leave your sleeping bag and tent behind. And make sure you take an abundant supply of drinking water and energy food.

If you are energetic, there is a steeper trail to Mt. Pangrango, which is 3019 meters, but this would require another couple of hours. As far as views go, on a clear day, from the top of Mt. Gede you can apparently see Jakarta, Cirebon and even Pelabuhan Ratu on the south coast. Unfortunately we didn't make it in time for sunrise, and neither was it a particularly clear day. A dense fog was engulfing the summit. Even so the hazy visage of the valley that lay under will always remain unforgettable. And as the clouds softly floated past, it felt like a sneak preview from the brink of heaven...watching the world go by!

The real draw, however, was the gigantic, smoky, sulfur coated crater. It is hard to believe how overwhelming a gaping well- baked hole in the earth's crust can be! If the fog deters a photo opportunity, the smothered crater more than makes up for this. There's no denying it is a tough walk too the top. But very fulfilling, making every aching footstep worth while. So regaling was the whole experience, that we are already planning our next hike up another volcano!