A midsummer night's dream at Mt. Gede-Pangrango
A midsummer night's dream at Mt. Gede-Pangrango
By Sona Vora Blessing
CIBODAS, West Java (JP): When we left Switzerland for an
assignment in Indonesia, one of the things high on our checklist
of things to do was trekking up a volcano.
Indonesia is graced with many beautiful volcanoes, so which
was our first going to be? Since we didn't have the luxury of
more than a weekend at our disposal, we chose to visit the twin
volcanoes of Mt. Gede and Mt. Pangrango that lie a little beyond
Bogor, a few hours from Jakarta. We drove there; but a bus ride
would have been as feasible.
Since we left on late Saturday afternoon, we were naturally
caught in the ubiquitous bumper to bumper traffic despite being
on the toll road that led to Bogor. But we were prepared for it
and made the most of it. We jumped out of our car, walked along
the row of cars, and enjoyed freshly roasted peanuts that the
street vendors vied to sell us. By sunset we were soaking in the
picturesque landscape of pretty paddy fields, banana and cassava
plantations. Luckily, beyond Bogor the traffic eased.
Although it was already dark, we enjoyed the drive through the
well-lit 1,500 meter-high Puncak pass. It was a narrow winding
road, which passed through small, lively, disco-dotted resort
towns and tea plantations. And at Cibodas, over the Puncak Pass,
was a beautiful high altitude extension of the Bogor Botanical
gardens. Incidentally the turn-off to Cibodas is on the Bogor
Bandung highway, a few kilometers west of Cipanas, and the
gardens are just five kilometers off the main road.
This area does seem more difficult to reach than the resort
strip along the Puncak Highway, but it is reachable by bus. Even
so, it draws fewer visitors. Just a short drive away lies Cibodas
botanical gardens, which are surrounded by thick tropical jungle
which stretches to the summits of Mt. Gede and Mt. Pangrango. The
125-hectare gardens were originally planted in 1862, and mark the
entrance to the Gede-Pangrango National Park.
The Park's trail passes Telaga Biru, a blue-green lake and
after one hour the Cibeurum Falls can be seen. Double the walk
time and you arrive at another waterfall where the water drops
deep into a gorge. Many visitors seem content to make that their
eventual destination. It is very refreshing, and a great picnic
spot. But over the weekend it was crowded.
However we were determined to make it to the top, and in time
for sunrise. So we chose to trek up the trail by night. The 10-km
hike up to the peak of the 2958-meter peak of the volcanically
active Mt. Gede takes at least 10 hours there and back. Although
the trail is well defined, and there are signboards that give
direction, it is a tough and steep climb. So proper hiking shoes
are in order. Although the temperature was just fresh for us, we
passed many smiling Indonesians, who were camping out all bundled
up in their woolies. Apparently night temperatures are known to
dip to five degrees Celsius.
What is heartening is that night walking besides being
adventurous is safe here. Not only do you meet others trekking
up, but you will be warmly welcomed to join them for some hot
simmering noodles. Only, one shouldn't forget to carry along
enough spare batteries for a big hand held flashlight! Another
fascination of trudging up by night, is the opportunity to see
the wonderful carpet of stars in the sky. If you like stargazing,
it's sheer magic! Although the dense foliage did not allow this
view for most of the trail, when it did clear we spotted Venus
and Mars!
If you don't particularly enjoy stargazing, and aren't a
creature of the night, the trek by day is as comfortable and
rewarding. It allows a leisurely pace that lets you appreciate
the thick, lush, green, tropical flora in the abundantly endowed
jungle. There's every conceivable type of palm tree, and many
fascinating creepers and plants can be seen. There is even a
special trail for bird watchers. But if you are alert and lucky,
you can see some animals in their natural habitat. We spotted
some shy chipmunks burrowing for food. If you do opt to trek by
day and camp on the summit at night, do not leave your sleeping
bag and tent behind. And make sure you take an abundant supply
of drinking water and energy food.
If you are energetic, there is a steeper trail to Mt.
Pangrango, which is 3019 meters, but this would require another
couple of hours. As far as views go, on a clear day, from the top
of Mt. Gede you can apparently see Jakarta, Cirebon and even
Pelabuhan Ratu on the south coast. Unfortunately we didn't make
it in time for sunrise, and neither was it a particularly clear
day. A dense fog was engulfing the summit. Even so the hazy
visage of the valley that lay under will always remain
unforgettable. And as the clouds softly floated past, it felt
like a sneak preview from the brink of heaven...watching the
world go by!
The real draw, however, was the gigantic, smoky, sulfur coated
crater. It is hard to believe how overwhelming a gaping well-
baked hole in the earth's crust can be! If the fog deters a
photo opportunity, the smothered crater more than makes up for
this. There's no denying it is a tough walk too the top. But very
fulfilling, making every aching footstep worth while. So regaling
was the whole experience, that we are already planning our next
hike up another volcano!