A midsummer night's dream at Mt. Gede-Pangrango<\/p>\n
By Sona Vora Blessing<\/p>\n
CIBODAS, West Java (JP): When we left Switzerland for an
\nassignment in Indonesia, one of the things high on our checklist
\nof things to do was trekking up a volcano.<\/p>\n
Indonesia is graced with many beautiful volcanoes, so which
\nwas our first going to be? Since we didn't have the luxury of
\nmore than a weekend at our disposal, we chose to visit the twin
\nvolcanoes of Mt. Gede and Mt. Pangrango that lie a little beyond
\nBogor, a few hours from Jakarta. We drove there; but a bus ride
\nwould have been as feasible.<\/p>\n
Since we left on late Saturday afternoon, we were naturally
\ncaught in the ubiquitous bumper to bumper traffic despite being
\non the toll road that led to Bogor. But we were prepared for it
\nand made the most of it. We jumped out of our car, walked along
\nthe row of cars, and enjoyed freshly roasted peanuts that the
\nstreet vendors vied to sell us. By sunset we were soaking in the
\npicturesque landscape of pretty paddy fields, banana and cassava
\nplantations. Luckily, beyond Bogor the traffic eased.<\/p>\n
Although it was already dark, we enjoyed the drive through the
\nwell-lit 1,500 meter-high Puncak pass. It was a narrow winding
\nroad, which passed through small, lively, disco-dotted resort
\ntowns and tea plantations. And at Cibodas, over the Puncak Pass,
\nwas a beautiful high altitude extension of the Bogor Botanical
\ngardens. Incidentally the turn-off to Cibodas is on the Bogor
\nBandung highway, a few kilometers west of Cipanas, and the
\ngardens are just five kilometers off the main road.<\/p>\n
This area does seem more difficult to reach than the resort
\nstrip along the Puncak Highway, but it is reachable by bus. Even
\nso, it draws fewer visitors. Just a short drive away lies Cibodas
\nbotanical gardens, which are surrounded by thick tropical jungle
\nwhich stretches to the summits of Mt. Gede and Mt. Pangrango. The
\n125-hectare gardens were originally planted in 1862, and mark the
\nentrance to the Gede-Pangrango National Park.<\/p>\n
The Park's trail passes Telaga Biru, a blue-green lake and
\nafter one hour the Cibeurum Falls can be seen. Double the walk
\ntime and you arrive at another waterfall where the water drops
\ndeep into a gorge. Many visitors seem content to make that their
\neventual destination. It is very refreshing, and a great picnic
\nspot. But over the weekend it was crowded.<\/p>\n
However we were determined to make it to the top, and in time
\nfor sunrise. So we chose to trek up the trail by night. The 10-km
\nhike up to the peak of the 2958-meter peak of the volcanically
\nactive Mt. Gede takes at least 10 hours there and back. Although
\nthe trail is well defined, and there are signboards that give
\ndirection, it is a tough and steep climb. So proper hiking shoes
\nare in order. Although the temperature was just fresh for us, we
\npassed many smiling Indonesians, who were camping out all bundled
\nup in their woolies. Apparently night temperatures are known to
\ndip to five degrees Celsius.<\/p>\n
What is heartening is that night walking besides being
\nadventurous is safe here. Not only do you meet others trekking
\nup, but you will be warmly welcomed to join them for some hot
\nsimmering noodles. Only, one shouldn't forget to carry along
\nenough spare batteries for a big hand held flashlight! Another
\nfascination of trudging up by night, is the opportunity to see
\nthe wonderful carpet of stars in the sky. If you like stargazing,
\nit's sheer magic! Although the dense foliage did not allow this
\nview for most of the trail, when it did clear we spotted Venus
\nand Mars!<\/p>\n
If you don't particularly enjoy stargazing, and aren't a
\ncreature of the night, the trek by day is as comfortable and
\nrewarding. It allows a leisurely pace that lets you appreciate
\nthe thick, lush, green, tropical flora in the abundantly endowed
\njungle. There's every conceivable type of palm tree, and many
\nfascinating creepers and plants can be seen. There is even a
\nspecial trail for bird watchers. But if you are alert and lucky,
\nyou can see some animals in their natural habitat. We spotted
\nsome shy chipmunks burrowing for food. If you do opt to trek by
\nday and camp on the summit at night, do not leave your sleeping
\nbag and tent behind. And make sure you take an abundant supply
\nof drinking water and energy food.<\/p>\n
If you are energetic, there is a steeper trail to Mt.
\nPangrango, which is 3019 meters, but this would require another
\ncouple of hours. As far as views go, on a clear day, from the top
\nof Mt. Gede you can apparently see Jakarta, Cirebon and even
\nPelabuhan Ratu on the south coast. Unfortunately we didn't make
\nit in time for sunrise, and neither was it a particularly clear
\nday. A dense fog was engulfing the summit. Even so the hazy
\nvisage of the valley that lay under will always remain
\nunforgettable. And as the clouds softly floated past, it felt
\nlike a sneak preview from the brink of heaven...watching the
\nworld go by!<\/p>\n
The real draw, however, was the gigantic, smoky, sulfur coated
\ncrater. It is hard to believe how overwhelming a gaping well-
\nbaked hole in the earth's crust can be! If the fog deters a
\nphoto opportunity, the smothered crater more than makes up for
\nthis. There's no denying it is a tough walk too the top. But very
\nfulfilling, making every aching footstep worth while. So regaling
\nwas the whole experience, that we are already planning our next
\nhike up another volcano!<\/p>",
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