Young designers must take own lead
Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
There were no half-baked materials, nor the oversensational designs cringingly typical of green designers at last week's Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Award (MBAFA) Indonesia 2004.
The five-year professional experience requirement for applicants made sure the fashion police did not have to take care of the above violations.
However, the eight finalists also showed they were not daring enough to come up with fresh ideas, but instead just followed what those before them have done.
Inspirations were implemented too glibly, and the wearability factor was not taken into consideration, even though it was supposed to be ready-to-wear collections.
Last week's event, the first held in this country, was aimed at finding the next big name in Indonesian fashion.
The two winners of the event, Kamawardhana and Deddy Iriawan, received Rp 10 million cash each and will represent the country in the Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Award (MBAFA) 2005 in Singapore.
The first MBAFA was held last April to find new, innovative designers of ready-to-wear from all over Asia. Twelve young designers from six Asian countries, including Indonesia, competed in the event, with Singaporean Sven Tan grabbing the award.
Tan received US$10,000 cash as well as the opportunity to present his works at the Mercedes Australian Fashion Week 2004, and a month-long study tour in Italy, including a workshop with Giorgio Armani in Milan and an internship with DaimlerChrysler Advanced Design in Como, Italy.
Fashion observer and writer Muara Bagdja was divided on the chances of Kamawardhana and Deddy (not Denny as reported in this publication last Sunday -- ed.) in the region-wide competition.
According to Muara, Kamawardhana, 35, did stand out among the finalists, as his men's wear collection, with its strong theme of macho bikers, was indeed wearable.
Deddy, 32, meanwhile, was too broad in his exploration of the Olympic theme. Instead of taking one or two elements and developing them into something wearable and simple, he embraced everything, from medals to the colors, creating a collection that people would be unlikely to wear.
Another example of nonchalant design was 26-year-old Estrelita M. Zefanya with an In Love with Shakespeare theme.
The models looked as though they had just stepped out of casting central for a historical epic, with the upholstery-like fabric and motif too heavy for tropical countries.
Other designs appeared outdated, reminiscent of vintage Issey Miyake, or '80s glam, and there were the typical flowing chiffon gowns that have become a fashion cliche.
Muara said the designers displayed a limited view and fashion sense.
"The designs are not modern, they're too local and merely follow their predecessors' work. Now, how can we compete in the international competition?" he told The Jakarta Post.