Young designers must take own lead

Young designers must take own lead

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

There were no half-baked materials, nor the oversensational
designs cringingly typical of green designers at last week's
Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Award (MBAFA) Indonesia 2004.

The five-year professional experience requirement for
applicants made sure the fashion police did not have to take care
of the above violations.

However, the eight finalists also showed they were not daring
enough to come up with fresh ideas, but instead just followed
what those before them have done.

Inspirations were implemented too glibly, and the wearability
factor was not taken into consideration, even though it was
supposed to be ready-to-wear collections.

Last week's event, the first held in this country, was aimed
at finding the next big name in Indonesian fashion.

The two winners of the event, Kamawardhana and Deddy Iriawan,
received Rp 10 million cash each and will represent the country
in the Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Award (MBAFA) 2005 in
Singapore.

The first MBAFA was held last April to find new, innovative
designers of ready-to-wear from all over Asia. Twelve young
designers from six Asian countries, including Indonesia, competed
in the event, with Singaporean Sven Tan grabbing the award.

Tan received US$10,000 cash as well as the opportunity to
present his works at the Mercedes Australian Fashion Week 2004,
and a month-long study tour in Italy, including a workshop with
Giorgio Armani in Milan and an internship with DaimlerChrysler
Advanced Design in Como, Italy.

Fashion observer and writer Muara Bagdja was divided on the
chances of Kamawardhana and Deddy (not Denny as reported in this
publication last Sunday -- ed.) in the region-wide competition.

According to Muara, Kamawardhana, 35, did stand out among the
finalists, as his men's wear collection, with its strong theme of
macho bikers, was indeed wearable.

Deddy, 32, meanwhile, was too broad in his exploration of the
Olympic theme. Instead of taking one or two elements and
developing them into something wearable and simple, he embraced
everything, from medals to the colors, creating a collection that
people would be unlikely to wear.

Another example of nonchalant design was 26-year-old Estrelita
M. Zefanya with an In Love with Shakespeare theme.

The models looked as though they had just stepped out of
casting central for a historical epic, with the upholstery-like
fabric and motif too heavy for tropical countries.

Other designs appeared outdated, reminiscent of vintage Issey
Miyake, or '80s glam, and there were the typical flowing chiffon
gowns that have become a fashion cliche.

Muara said the designers displayed a limited view and fashion
sense.

"The designs are not modern, they're too local and merely
follow their predecessors' work. Now, how can we compete in the
international competition?" he told The Jakarta Post.