Yogya's Kotagede silver industry faces slow regeneration

By Bambang Trisno and Anis Suryani

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Silver craft has become the trademark of Kotagede, a city located some five kilometers southeast of Yogyakarta.

Kotagede's silver works, however, cannot be separated from the history of the Kalang community, the pioneer of Kotagede's present community.

It is believed this community introduced and developed silver working in the 17th century. The Kalang community were known as a society of rich traders owning large, luxurious houses. They loved jewelry and mastered skills for creating silver and gold works.

Their way of living was quite different from the indigenous Javanese community, who were mostly traditional farmers.

There are many different variations on the origins of the Kalang community. One version has it that one day, King of the old Mataram Kingdom, Sultan Agung Hanyokrokusumo (1613-1645), wanted carved ornaments for his palace. In order to get what he wanted, he brought in some craftsmen from Bali.

Then, over time, through marriages between these Balinese craftsmen and local people, a community of craftsmen grew in numbers in Tegalgendu village, now Kotagede. They brought with them a different culture. They even set up their own exclusive community. The word kalang itself means boundary in Javanese.

One of the existing evidence that relates the Kalang community and the present community of Kotagede -- according to the version -- is the cremation ritual, which resembles the one in Bali. The difference is, in Kotagede, it is not a human body being burned, but a wooden puppet locally known as puspa.

However, no one can tell whether the present Kotagede craftsmen are really the heirs of Kalang community, or whether the identity of the exclusive community is finally fading out after blending in with Javanese culture. But one thing is for sure, the silver craft industry exists in the city until today.

Business

Currently, there are about 30 silver and gold crafting businesses in Kotagede, employing some 400 craftsmen. The interesting thing is that most of the craftsmen are aged between 50 and 77 years old, younger people are not interested to join the business.

For instance, MD Silver Works employs 20 craftsmen and none of them are young.

Suprapto, 77, the most senior craftsman working in the company, started carving silver when he was 22 years old.

A senior craftsman, Suprapto, who joined the company in 1955, is often assigned to create special orders from the Yogyakarta royal family. Yet, he only earns about Rp 225,000 a month.

"I stay at the job because carving is my only expertise. I can't change professions because if I do, I have to start all over again," he said.

Silver craftsmen's work require high concentration, accuracy, and perseverance. They usually work from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, making younger people reluctant to join.

"Young men are not interested in Rp 5,000 a day or Rp 7,500 a day (if working overtime). The payment is much lower than the wage of a manual laborer, regardless that this work requires accuracy and perseverance," said another craftsman Jumino, 65, working for MD Silver Works. He added that a construction worker in Yogyakarta could earn Rp 10,000 to Rp 12,500 a day.

Both Suprapto and Jumino said none of their children were willing to have the same profession as their fathers.

"They are not interested in the silver industry at all. My son prefers to open a car repair service than doing silver craft work. And he makes good money from it," Suprapto said.

Serious problem

The lack of interest in silversmith apprenticeships in Kotagede is a problem that could threaten the existence of the industry in the future. Besides the low wage, the ongoing economic crisis makes it even more difficult for the business to survive.

Tom's Silver's vice director HM Margono said his company's turnover was worse since the crisis hit the country. The company cannot pay its workers more or hire more, especially young ones.

"The regeneration of silver craftsmen is actually there but it runs very slow because the business is facing problems with the crisis," Margono said.

He cited his company has contributed in the regeneration process through its cooperation with a handicrafts industry senior high school. The cooperation provides students with field practices and a chance to work in the silver company after graduation.

Set up in 1950, Tom's Silver now employs 40 craftsmen and has projects with dozens of other craftsmen outside the company.

Margono said most of the workers are old and paid at Rp 225,000 a month at the minimum, or Rp 7,500 a day, excluding meals, health allowance or insurance.

He blamed the sharp drop in the business to the sharp decline in the number of foreign tourists -- its main consumers which contributed between 80 and 90 percent of Tom's Silver sales prior to the crisis.

Exports, according to Margono, may be the answer to the industry's present problems. Yet, most of the silver companies could not meet the demand due to the low capacity and tight deadlines.

The skyrocketing price of silver, following the meltdown of the rupiah against the U.S. dollar, is another reason for declining business.

"Before the crisis, a kilogram of silver was Rp 300,000. Now it costs us Rp 1,500,000 per kilogram. It makes it difficult for us to run the business."