Year of ups and downs for Jakarta pub scene

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

There's no doubt about it, it's been one heck of a hard year, what with glugging down copious quantities of the amber nectar, endless elbow-bending, and trying to get reimbursed for my outstanding efforts -- often far above and beyond the call of duty -- by the denizens of The Jakarta Post's accounts department (a notoriously stingy and tight-fisted crew!).

But it's all been in a good cause which is ... er... oh yes, informing the public about the latest developments in the Jakarta pub scene, or something to that effect.

And now, of course, the New Year is coming and the barflies are getting even fatter as they recover from the Xmas booze-up, and start readying themselves for the turn-of-the-year revels -- scenes of abject gluttony and self-flagellation that only the most hardened of tipplers emerge from unscathed.

But before devoting ourselves entirely to the joyful pursuit of the remaining bacchanalian pleasures that the season has in store, why don't we take time out to have a gander back at some of the more noteworthy events and developments in the pub scene over the past year?

As we all know, this past year was marred by the ruthless and heinous Bali bombings, acts of bloodthirsty insanity that could so easily have brought the country to its knees. I'd like to take this opportunity to extend belated condolences to the families and friends of all those who were forced to leave us in such an untimely manner by these acts of wanton barbarism.

But while Bali's economy was virtually torpedoed by the bombings, Jakarta's licentious nightlife scene continued, more or less as if nothing had happened, which just serves to show what a vast, ethnically and religiously diverse place we live in. Difficult to imagine in any more homogeneous nation that the central government couldn't even see its way to declaring a day of national mourning. But, I suppose, to the powers that be in Jakarta, apart from the money it brings in, the island of Bali might as well be on another planet.

The year 2002, however, also saw some positive developments. Among the most satisfying of these was the long-overdue demise of the brethren in white coats, a crew of self-righteous ignoramuses of the most odious variety. Not content with wrecking harmless watering-holes, pool halls and putting the wind up some of our more timorous tipplers, this beastly band also had a curious fixation with brushes and brooms, or so one would imagine from all the yapping about "sweeping" that they used to come out with.

But, for the time being at any rate, they appear to have crawled back into the dingy (probably cockroach-infested) holes whence they came, something that will be warmly applauded by all right-minded people, tippler and non-tippler alike, here in the big smoke.

While 2002 brought some pub closures, it also saw a whole host of new hostelries throw open their doors to a drooling, and frequently dribbling, army of punters. While many of these newcomers failed to make the grade in any meaningful way and will, no doubt, soon go the way of the white-robed brethren, some of them are true gems that should be around for a long time to come.

Among my favorite newies this year is Fez Lounge, holding the fort (literally, for the exterior is all done up like an Indian or Middle Eastern fortress, battlements included), at Jl. Kemang Raya No. 78B, in the heart of Jakarta's relatively salubrious expat land -- not much sign of an economic crisis around these parts!

With an Indian restaurant upstairs to supply the sort of fiery fuel that many a punter gets a craving for after the booze kicks in, this is a truly relaxing, yet fun place where all sorts of weird and wonderful people have a penchant for hanging out.

Another new hostelry of note is burgundy (they're very insistent that it's spelled with a small "b" for some unfathomable reason!), which you'll find tucked away inconspicuously in the upper -- and exceedingly luxurious -- reaches of Grand Hyatt Jakarta on Jl. Thamrin.

While the exterior of burgundy may be rather unimpressive, what's inside is a real treat for anyone who appreciates a little luxury while wetting his whistle. It's also a godsend for those of a narcissistic bent (which seemed to be the majority of burgundy punters on most of the nights I've been there), as they've got almost as many looking glasses and reflectors lining the walls as the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.

All these bright, shiny mirrors don't come cheap, however -- make sure you bring along your platinum card or, if not, a Weimar Republic-style barrowful of cash. But, for all that, burgundy is definitely the place to go and well worth the temporary financial stress. A word of warning: if you want to secure a pew on which to repose the posterior, make sure you get there early (before 9 p.m.) as burgundy appears to be the in-place at the moment.

On the raunchier Blok-M side, D's Place at Jl Palatehan I No. 1C (actually opened at the end of 2001), is just the ticket for those seeking a bit of nocturnal hanky-panky in reasonably civilized surrounds. With two floors of more or less everything an overgrown schoolboy could ask for, great staff and reasonable prices, it's no surprise that D's has established a loyal, if not downright slavish, clientele. But, that's only as it should be for what's probably the best beer joint in Blok M.

And speaking of raunchy, poor old Jl. Jaksa has been continuing its long and seemingly interminable slide, a process aided considerably by the mid-year closure of Q Bar, one of the very few semi-decent hostelries left on the drag, not to mention a half-hearted raid from the brethren in white coats. But like many a bad penny, Jaksa always has the potential to come up shining. And with one new and highly prospective shebeen having already set up shop there (P's Place), and another one on the way in the New Year, it looks like Jaksa is set to confound the prophets of doom and gloom yet again. So its keeping the fingers crossed, and I'll tell you all about it in 2003.

But before I go, I must also extend a warm welcome to Flanagan's in Hotel Sari Pan Pacific on Jl. Thamrin, the first Irish pub in Jakarta worthy of the name. OK, so its a bit of a pastiche, but with great food and booze, it's none the worse for all that.

Well, that's about it for this year, except to wish you the complements of the season, etc. For all those with some serious New Year's partying in mind, don't neglect to lay in an appropriate supply of Mylanta and aspirin. And when in doubt, just keep telling yourself its all in the cause of national economic recovery.

Cheers, and down the hatch!