'Warteg': Cheap food with a bit creativity

Sari P. Setiogi, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

It was about 7:30 a.m. at Cikini market, Menteng, Central Jakarta. Abu, a vegetable vendor was cleaning a pile of cabbage. He discarded leaves that had holes in them or had gone a little brownish.

"I am packaging the vegetables for several hotels," said Abu, wiping his forehead, "So I must remove the bad parts. They only want vegetables of the best quality."

It only took a few minutes before a woman carrying a plastic bag came and collected the discarded leaves. Abu recognized the woman and they greeted each other.

With a big smile, the woman said, "I collect these for my warteg (sidewalk food stall). Abu is so kind as to allow me to pick up the vegetables for free."

Later, the woman introduced herself as Wati. She said she had been running a warteg in Menteng, Central Jakarta, for the last eight years.

"I am happy in this business," said the mother of three. She believes that somehow she is helping people survive on their limited budgets.

"My customers vary from carpenters to office clerks. But during lunchtime you can also meet those wearing nice ties," said Wati, smiling.

Yanto, a carpenter working in an building project nearby, stopped by and bought two pieces of fried tempeh. He also asked for a glass of hot tea.

Wati said Yanto, who is married and has four children, was one of her regular customers.

"The warteg really helps me to have cheap but nutritious lunches," said Yanto.

It is hard to believe that in a cosmopolitan city like Jakarta, one can buy a big lunch for Rp 2,500 (about 30 U.S. cents).

For Rp 2,500 a diner at Wati's warteg can get a piece of tempeh and two other dishes with a mound of hot rice. Hot tea is served for free.

Or, if someone wants to eat something more "sophisticated", he could add Rp 500 for an egg or Rp 1,500 for a piece of chicken.

Wati explained how she could provide meals at her warteg at such low prices.

"For vegetables, I always do as you witnessed this morning. Abu is very kind. He sometimes stops by at my warteg and orders some food. I never accept his money. He already helps me a lot," said Wati.

"My sister usually buys fish from the fish market at Muara Karang," she said. "To get a low price, we always buy after market time is over".

According to her, at those moments fishermen usually sell off their fish at low prices. "They have to sell it before it spoils," she said, "So, that's how we can bring home fish at such low prices".

"And chicken," she said, "I can still sell chicken at my warteg for about Rp 1,150 a portion". But she refused to reveal her source.

However, the price is very low compared to pieces of fried chicken in restaurants which vary between Rp 4,500 and Rp 7,000 per piece.

It takes creativity to live in a big city such as Jakarta in the current economic situation.