Villagers' fate uncertain in Carita Bay makeover

By Tobias Glucksman

CARITA, West Java (JP): Nestled next to a quaint fishing village, in an area rich in history and natural wonders, Carita Bay offers something for the historian, naturalist, anthropologist and sunbather in us all. For better or worse, nothing short of mighty Krakatau should prevent this small stretch of tranquility from remaining one of Jakarta's premier weekend escape destinations.

Carita Bay has long been a magnet for middle and upper income vacationers as well as a few backpackers and students on holiday. The Carita Krakatau Beach Hotel, which once presided over the center of Carita's horseshoe-shaped beach, had a large role in catering to the Bay's clientele. The hotel has been razed in the name of development, and banks of four-story condominiums are under construction along a kilometer stretch of Carita's choicest beachfront.

These condominiums, along with a modern marina, are part of the first stage of a US$250 million project by Lippoland, the real estate development arm of Lippobank. It's only the beginning as Lippoland's future plans include: an expanded marina from which to launch deep sea fishing and scuba diving excursions; a modern shopping center and food court; a luxury hotel; additional high-rise condominiums; and an exclusive villa complex fanning out to the mountains inland. The project's first stage, to be completed this year, targets 18 hectares. The entire project, when completed, should encompass 200 hectares.

A stroll along Carita's beaches and through its nearby traditional villages gives one the impression that tourism has had only slight consequences for the local people over the years -- especially in terms of income. Though a plethora of local peddlers swarm the beaches daily selling anything from custom daggers to swimwear, it's a buyer's market with the rare sale yielding scant profit. More testimony is found at the traditional fish markets where garbage is strewn everywhere, structures are old and sagging, and vessels -- albeit structurally beautiful -- are run down.

Perhaps the local residents who have benefited most from tourism are those who have secured full-time employment at Carita's resorts.

One former fisherman, who now works on the pier at Carita's new marina, sums up the impact Lippoland's project can have for local residents lucky enough to make the payrolls: "With fishing nothing is certain, here at the marina I do not work very hard and I can always expect a monthly salary."

The destruction of the Carita Krakatau Beach Hotel could have been a tragedy for its one hundred and sixty seven former employees, however, Lippoland showed uncharacteristic corporate heart and re-employed the displaced workers in its project. If the multi-million dollar project fulfills its original design, its sheer magnitude should ensure full-time employment for scores of additional local residents.

What remains uncertain, though, is the financial prospects for local residents who are not invited into the Lippoland fold. For years, the local villagers have provided a variety of goods and services to tourists frequenting Carita Bay. With a wealthier, more discriminating breed of tourist entrenching itself in Carita, the links between the local villager and vacationer may become remote.

"In the past tourists have bought many local goods, some even visited the fishing village and used their money there," said one Carita tourist official who spoke under anonymity. "The upper class people buying Lippoland's condominiums and villas will not be as interested in products and services provided by the villagers."

Dilemma

"We also don't know how many people will be coming to Carita in the future," he added, "wealthy people from Jakarta may buy a villa or condominium and then only stay in it two weeks during the year -- this is generally not a problem with middle income tourists who expect to rent."

Lippoland seems to have realized this last concern in that it plans to open a real estate management agency to keep the condominiums and villas occupied when owners are not around.

Again the tourist official expressed pessimism, "Jakarta people who can afford to buy these places will not be worried about renting them when they are not here."

Oddly enough, vacant condominiums and villas may also be a dilemma for Lippoland which faces the prospect of building five- star service facilities for a clientele which is rarely present. This may explain why the land developer has yet to issue starting dates for additional stages of the project.

"They may have to change their plans," said the tourist official, "Maybe, they can only build a three-star resort."

Regardless of the number of stars earned by Lippoland's Sea Breeze Condominiums and Admiral Villas, the Carita Bay area itself deserves a top rating as a vacation destination.

Clean, white-sand beaches stretch almost the entire length of the horseshoe shaped inlet on the coast of Sumatra Bay. A steady breeze which arrives typically in the afternoon is idyllic for sailing, sunbathing and sleeping at night. Though the surf grows large enough to enjoy bodysurfing, boogie-boarding and some surfing, one is not overcome by the fear felt when entering the thundering surf of the Indian Ocean to the south. In the evening, a bloated pink sun graces Carita with solemn glory before slipping beneath the water; silhouetting the spider-like traditional bamboo fish traps scattered about the Bay.

If that's not enough, the vicinity around Carita is a natural, historic and cultural treasure. A junket to the nearby villages and their markets will give the part-time anthropologist a look at a bona fide traditional West Javanese fishing village; a day's outing as an observer, or sports fisherman, on one of Carita's colorful traditional fishing vessels would be easily arranged.

Within an hour's striking distance is menacing Krakatau Volcano, an excellent scuba and snorkeling spot and a must for risk takers.

The mountains directly behind Carita have many hiking trails, one of which leads to a pristine seven-meter waterfall that tumbles into a placid swimming pool.

To the south is the adventure of treks into Ujung Kulon national park, the only remaining home of the endangered Javan Rhinoceros. In the north there is towering Anyer Light House built by the Dutch in 1885, two years after Krakatau's enormous tidal wave leveled the nearby Dutch port. Further inland is old Banten with a rich history of the powerful Sultanate that refused to succumb to Dutch rule. Visitors to old Banten can visit two palace ruins under excavation, a fort, a grand mosque, a Chinese temple and museum.

Lippoland intends to incorporate the natural, historic and cultural assets of the Carita Bay area into the ambiance of its new resort. The resort's theme will center on an imaginary Port Carita in 1883, the year Krakatau volcano exploded just 50 km off the coast. Four hundred years of history will be integrated into the resort employing Sudanese, Chinese, English, Portuguese, Middle Eastern, Indian and Javanese architectural styles.

Over four hundred condominium units (one to three bedrooms) are slated to be built; sixty-five percent have been sold already. The planned one hundred villa units (three to four bedroom) have all been sold.